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Installing additional fuel filters, GDP w/ Cat 2 Micron, and a Fuel/Water Sep....

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48 RE Transmission No Reverse

Fuel system Sputter, momentary loss of power

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Well I did a little modification to my fuel filter setup yesterday.

I have been wanting a fuel heater for the f/w sep under the truck, as well as a WIF sensor. The OEM Severe Duty Filtration kit always looked like a good idea, but it was way too much $$. But recently I found one at a reasonable rate and picked it up.

I didn't plumb it how Dodge intended. They have the fuel lines that tie into the lines at the filter housing, then plumb back to the transfer case area, get filtered, and plumb back to the stock canister. Well that seems like a lot of unneeded hose, in addition I already have cut my OE line by the transfer case.

So I picked up the banjo to push-lok fittings and hi-flow banjo's locally. I also had to turn the heater around so that the in was on the right and the out on the left for better alignment of the hose to fuel line connections.

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Then I ran the wiring. The main reason I wanted the OEM kit was the integrated wiring harness for the heater and WIF sensor. I mounted the relay on the back of the driver side battery tray, and hooked up the + and - connections. The wire that turns the relay on needs to be spliced into the power wire for the OE heater. This was the only part of the kit I thought was half-assesd. Everything else has nice weatherproof connections, why they didn't just add a pigtail connector to the OE heater plug I don't know. But its all installed now.

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I was concerned about the sensor hanging down, but its above the transfer case skid plate and won't be an issue.

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The WIF sensor needs to be replaced with the one in the kit, it must be a different OHM setup. The the OE pigtail plugs into the SDF harness. I haven't done this part yet as I am waiting for a tune from MADS to turn on the B20 WIF sensor option in the ECM. (I had Dodge turn it on last week, but the Smarty programing turns it off, but they are sending me a tune shortly).

I haven't driven it yet to report on the fuel pressure, and its cold out so I am not sure if the ~1 psi lower was due to cold fuel, the moved sensor, or the increased resistance of banjo's vs -an, or the resistance thru an additional heater.

I also took the time to redo all the hoses with the blue parker hoses. They still aren't bio-diesel compatible, but they should be fine for occasional B5 or B20 use. I also moved the fuel pressure sensor. Originally I had it plumbed to that my "T" for the sender was also a 90* fitting for the hose, now its plumbed so the sender is the "T" portion.

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Before I hooked up the hose to the CP3 I ran a bunch of fuel thru it to clean anything out. I was surprised how much fuel the pump actually moves at no load. I was getting about 30oz of fuel in less than 10 seconds, which works out to be 90GPH. That is a lot more fuel than I thought the OEM pump pushed and that just could be due to no load and the internal bypass isn't bypassing due to no pressure.

The specs on the filter are, 25um absolute, 15um @ 83%, 95% free and 95% emulsified water removal, 30gr dirt holding, and 63. 4 GPH. The filter is a FS19823, and Dodge sells it for $202. Cummins carries it for $37 but no one stocks it and I have been told a case min for an order. The FS19732 has the exact same specs, both are stratapore media but is . 39" shorter. Its a common filter and is stocked by my local Cummins, so I will be using that one for my changes. The filters are rated slightly less than the BF1212, but as its the pre-filter I am not concerned in the least.
 
the instalation looks very good I to do like to instal these kit please contact Me by phone if possible I ddo like to buy extra kit. please call tony @ 214-755-5716 for more inf. thank yuo.
 
I added some insulation to the filter under the truck. This should help keep some of the heat the heater is making. The heater defiantly works thou, I had to idle for 5 hours a few weeks back and the pressure slowly increase about 1 psi over the time and the pressure was also smoother at the end, where as when I first stopped the psi would just a bunch with the cycling of the a/c condenser.

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UPDATE: Since I don't currently have the option to have the 2nd WIF sensor monitored I switched back to a BF1212 at the last filter change. I also switched the Cat out for a Donaldson P551313 as its rated at 3um vs the Cat's 4um. I got just over 22K miles on the last set of filters before I started seeing pressure drop to about 3psi WOT. I attribute the shorter filter life to the truck sitting more as it's not my DD anymore.

The dual 300W fuel heaters are great! My pressure on a 3° morning will go from ~6. 5 to ~8 after 5 minutes of the truck running, pretty darn good for cold soaked fuel.
 
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AH64ID:

I take it that way back in your 11/26/10 post, the filter assembly on the severe duty kit has a heater plumbed into it by Dodge?

thanks, steve whalen
 
Yes it does, it's why I went with the Dodge kit. I was able to get the kit for less than just the heater from Fleetguard, and it's a Fleetguard heater!
 
The directions said which wire to splice. I don't recall which one it was, but could go look. . or look closely at the photos.
 
I have been following your threads on here and on CF but I wanna make sure I got everything right. You are running a mk-2 kit with big line, donaldson P551313 between cp3 and stock filter housing, does the mount that comes with the GDP kit fit the donaldson? I guess I was confused on why you switched bases. In the stock housing you have a baldwin pf7977. Then in the back on the frame you are running a BF1212? The reason I am asking is I am gonna replace all my injectors but I wanna get my filter setup done first so that I know I got clean fuel running through the system before the injectors go in. Any other suggestions?
 
That is correct. I only used a different base because I had it in the garage already. The Baldwin base is a cross for the Fleetguard used by GDP.
 
Another thing I got to thinking about is, I am gonna install an airdog with the don P551315 and the Baldwin BF1275, do I need that extra w/s (BF1212) on the frame? Or will the airdog and the stock housing be enough?
 
I change all 3 of mine at the same time.

18 months
20K miles
noticeable pressure drop

whichever happens first.

These days I change based on 18 months.
 
How often are you changing the 2 mic filter?

I have gone about 30,000. I watch my primary fuel pressure. I do change the factory filter every 15,000 or before a big trip if it is within a couple of thousand miles of being due. I always keep a spare for both under the back seat. I cycle those in and put the fresh under the seat.
 
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