Installing cab clearance lights while the windshield is out

[firefighter_2000]

I have a huge crack across my windshield. Should be getting it replaced soon. Was thinking I might see if the guy (mobile service) would come pull my windshield, and let me have it for the day so I can install my cab clearance lights. Anyone think it might be really easy to do it that way? Would be cheaper and less time consuming. Any thoughts are appreciated!
Craig

UPDATE: 9-26-2014

Having the windshield out made this a cake walk... If you need your windshield replaced. This is the time to do it!
See below!

 

[MJWenrich]

The big issue/advantage when I did mine was that the headliner could be removed to allow better access to do the job. Other than that, I don't see an advantage. You still have to remove most of the interior to drop the headliner. If I could have removed the rear headrests on mine it would have been easier too. Probably a way but I removed the rear seat since most of the side panels and belts need to be removed to drop the headliner. If you do this, I recommend you don't drill the holes as large as they say. I believe it was 3/4 inch and the lights kept falling back out. I would go as small a hole as possible and pinch the bulb holder to get it through. Also, use a step drill as the metal is very flimsy and will tear or twist up unless you can get a backing in there for the drill. The step drill worked well for me. Then seal the heck out of everything. When and if I have to change a bulb I will have to reseal the cap light wire and holder assembly because the light is retained by the lens. Which means when you pull the lens back up, you break the seal you made around the wire. Obviously a cheaper way for the engineers to design this but it's likely the cause of some leaks others have had. They rely on the lens seal alone. Good luck.

 

[firefighter_2000]

Well, the windshield finally cracked all the way so it was time for a new windshield. Found a guy who does mobile glass replacement. He came to the house around 9 and took my old glass out.

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This is the space I had to work with. I removed the A-pillar trim (10mm socket) and the visors (8mm nut driver and a T-20 torx), and pulled the rubber trim down around the door.

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I also removed the GPS/SAT antenna. Two plugs and this "X" connector. Easily removed with a 10mm socket.

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Set the template, then use a center punch to mark the hole locations.

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Drilled the holes (7/8" hole saw for the middle and a 1/4" bit for the screw holes), placed the plugs with bulbs through the big holes and placed the plastic screw anchors. Once the screw anchors are placed, make sure and remove the little "nub" from the top center.

 

[firefighter_2000]

Installed the lenses on top. Screws were a t-20 Torx.

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I used the self tapping screw and put the ground wire into the top of the sheet metal near the front of the roof (where the metal is 2 layered and a space between. Then after I put the power wire into some split loom, I routed it down the A-post and towards the fuse panel.

Here's the tricky part. The instructions (for a 2010) say to route it to the left park feed. On a 2013 the left park feed is moved inside the truck under the dash (way up high) to the BCM.
What I ended up doing is locating the clearance light circuit in the fuse box. It's F79 in the fuse panel on a 2013.
Once I located the correct wire, I pried the white connector out then using a precision screwdriver, I released the wire from the housing. Pulled that wire out and spliced into the circuit with some solder & shrink. Best part is its fuse protected in its proper place in the fuse panel.

(It's the the upper left plug, then the third from left on the bottom row. Was hard to tell, but I think it was white with a brown tracer.)
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And the finished product.
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Then had the glass guy come back in the afternoon and put the windshield back in.

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Night shot: #ad

 

[Sikos]

Firefighter, thanks for the info.
Joe

 

[DonFitzwater]

I'm surprised that truck didn't come with them. Looks great, good job and thanks for posting the wiring info.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Lots of the trucks lately haven't been ordered with clearance lights. Even most of the 3500 SRW's don't have them from the factory.

 

[firefighter_2000]

There were about 3 options I could find that my truck didn't have. The clearance lights were the only one I wanted. Didn't want the Ram Box or the sunroof. Everything else... I got...

 

[gtoli]

Looks great. Looks like a lot of work, glad I got mine with the clearance lights Factory installed.

 

[TFucili]

I've been looking at 2500s and darn few have clearance lights. I've never bought a truck without them, but if I want to take advantage of rebates on leftovers, I might have to.

 

[MJWenrich]

Having the windshield out was sure easier than what I went thru. And I certainly could have used that info on the wiring. It took me quite awhile to locate a connection on the light switch and then hope it did not trigger an error light. Did you take any precaution to seal the lights better than the gaskets provided with the kit?

 

[firefighter_2000]

The lights that came with my kit were around a 2010 time frame. They have a full rubber gasket underneath that the light sits in.
It's been raining for a couple of days and so far no leaks.
Craig

 

[jacknife]

Looks very good.

 

[MJWenrich]

Craig...I asked because my gaskets were difficult to get the lens seated all the way around. I had to use a small pick to bring the lip up around the lens. Probably would have been okay but I read in another post that a few folks have experienced leaks into the cab due to the factory install of the lights. I sprayed water on the truck at high velocity to mimic road use and have not had a problem. Since it has not rained in Ca. for seemingly years until this weekend, I had no road tests for my install. Good looking truck BTW and looks right with those lights.

Mike