Installing switches for PE EZ question...

[fj40charles]

I just installed my PE EZ on my truck and it works well. I've searched the archives and many said they like the middle setting because it will produce less smoke while towing and it brings on the power more smoothly. However, there may be times when I want to have it on the most agressive setting.



Questions:



1. Can you change the jumper settings with the motor running or do you have to have the engine off?



2. Has anyone rigged up a switch (toggle, button, slide or whatever kind) to switch between the middle and most agressive (factory setting) setting inside the truck?



I think this would be very easy to do. Just wanting to see if anyone has done this.



Thanks in advance,

Charles

 

[Tom C]

I would just set it to max power and smoke out the neighborhood



What kind of Boost are you getting now??



Are you getting a lot of smoke??



whats your fuel prssure now at full throttle??





PS: If you need in the cab controls for the power setting you got the wrong power module... Just kidding. The EZ has worked great for me and If I had a module that was adjustable I would probably leave it on high all the time

 

[fj40charles]

Tommy,



I'm getting about 30 lbs of boost. I have not pulled a trailer with it so I don't really know what the max boost is. My FP gauge goes down to about 6-8 PSI and seems to recover quickly.



On the default switch setting, I can produce a smoke cloud if I get on it, but if I'm easy on the throttle, it does not produce much smoke.



Charles

 

[Ramboy]

Charles,

If I'm not mistaken, it seems that some member did this exact thing some months back. I believe he was even selling the switch kits for this. You might try to do an archive search. I'm with you, it doesn't really seem that difficult.

 

[zman]

I'm looking for a 4 position 2 pole "break before make" rotary switch to handle this. Position "0" would be "off" - or boost module only, then EZ settings 1, 2, and 3. If I can find the switch, I'm gonna try this. I have some 3 pair shielded cat 5 cable that I'm hoping will work between the box and the in-cab switch.



The biggest problem is that the jumper pins are right next to the end of the box, which will make it difficult to hook the wire connectors to - not enough room between the end of the pins and the end of the box for the wiring. I think I can solder the wires to the connectors at a 90* angle so that the wires run perpendicular to the jumper pins. I'll have to drill a hole in the end plate to run the wire through and find a good way to seal up the hole so no moisture gets in the box.



The only other issue to consider is whether there will be a signal timing issue due to the length of the wiring to the cab switch.



I've done a lot of looking, but haven't found a suitable switch yet. I'll report back if I find one. If anyone knows of a good source for the switch (4 position, 2 pole, BBM, rotary), let me know. Thanks!



Steve

 

[fj40charles]

Zman,



Is there any reason why you couldn't get some cables that are used on PC motherboards? These are the ones that you plug on the jumpers on the motherboard. Another option would be to get some jumpers and solder directly to the jumpers. They make single jumpers if that will make it easier to solder.



I don't really like the idea of soldering directly to the EZ.



Let me know how things work out.



Thanks,

Charles

 

[zman]

Charles,



You will need some sort of shielded cable to help prevent any type of interference with the signals running over the cable. Typically, the cables in a PC box are not shielded. The PC case itself provides the shielding. Shielded Cat 5/6 is the standard cable for wiring computer data networks.



I'm not planning to solder directly to the jumper pins , only to some connectors that would slip over the pins. The wire probably needs to be soldered to the connectors at a 90* angle since there is not much room between the end of the pins and the end cover of the EZ.



Hope that clears things up a bit



Steve

 

[Big White Beast]

CAT-5 shield...

CAT-5 wire is engineered wire. There is no shield per se. Each pair of wires has separate twists. The twisted pairs act as shielding for the data that they carry. It's mostly to prevent cross talk, which I don't see as a problem with the jumpers on the EZ. Is there any data going through the jumpers or only a small voltage?



I would call Edge and talk to their tech's. I have thought of doing this myself but been to lazy to call and find out particulars. If you get any info please let me know.



Garrett



EDIT: Just got off the phone with Edge. They say it's not a problem on the fly. No shielding required. I will call tomorrow and he will tell me which side of jumper is ground or common. That would reduce the number of wires needed to the cab. The make before break switch still sounds like a good idea. I always have mine on #2 but would like #3 on command. So a SPDT switch and 3 wires would work for me.

 

[fj40charles]

Good stuff. I picked up a double pole double throw switch (has "off" position in the middle) which I should be able to use. I will switch between the middle and the right (default) position on the EZ.



I'm also planning on getting some aluminum sheet metal and making my own end so I won't destroy the original end. I guess the ideal thing would be to get a solid piece of aluminum and mill out the inside so you have more room to connect the wires to the jumper block. I may end up doing this since I can use my drill press and my dremel to make the end.



What do you think about using some phone wires? Do you think it would hold up to the heat under the hood or go with Cat 5 wires?



Good info. on being able to change the jumper setting on the fly.



Charles

 

[HEYBOSS]

Charles

I didn't realize you're running a post on the same subject as mine.

I installed two switches right on the box cover, that's all I could fit. I soldered the wires on the pins. One was tough as the wire was very short and heavy gauge, only about 1/2 long but ok. double pole, double throw switch sounds like a good idea and also running it inside the cab. Like mentioned before if no data runs on those pins just voltage I think phone wire would work well, the box is not near any high heat areas on the engine. The only concern on the phone wire would be amperage which I don't think it is much. Let me know or post how you make out.

Thanks,



Fred.

 

[Big White Beast]

OK I did it.....

After talking to Aaron at Edge he told me the bottom row is common. I hooked one wire to that and then a wire to #1 for now and #3. I didn't want to spend the time looking for a three position switch. I figure all out or mileage is good for me. I still haven't decided if I'm going to keep the jumper on #1 or # 2. Have to run a tank with each setting and see which is better for all around driving. The difference between one and three was only 1 sec. 0-60. And large volumes of smoke.



I did find some connectors that come in a row and you can cut off individual ones. They have a point to solder to and fit with the cover closed. I soldered them at right angles to make it easier to get the cover on. Drilled a hole in the cover and siliconed it shut. That should take care of it. Seeing only the jumpers are exposed anyway I'm not too worried. The rest of the board is epoxied in place.



Edge did offer to trade in for a comp but I know me and that injector pump wire would be hooked up right away.



Have to keep it somewhat mellow as it is a work truck.



Garrett

 

[HEYBOSS]

Garrett

Excuse my ignorance here. Providing we have the same box the Edge Ez you say any of the pins on the bottom are common.

So that means all I have to do is run one wire from any bottom pin on the box and have it switch to what ever pin position I want on the top? which would give me position 1, 2 and 3 providing I use the right switch? also what kind of wire can be used to run it inside cab? any automotive wire? what's cat 5?

Also do you know if leaving a switch off meaning same as removing the jumper and not use it at all what would the box do, would it default to any of the positions or would it be the same as not having the box plugged in?



Thanks, Fred.

 

[Big White Beast]

Not sure.....

But, if you take all the jumpers off it probably defaults to a boost only module.



All the jumpers on the bottom row are common. So yes you only need one wire to anywhere on the bottom row. I used 16 gauge primary wire and twisted all three strands together. Mostly for neatness and ease of running it through to the cab. An old trick is to take all the strands and clamp them in a vise then chuck the other end in a battery drill the hit the trigger and tada you have a neat package of wire.



Cat-5 is a data/communications wire. Typically 24 gauge and very thin. It would work OK. Too many wire for me though.



Let me know how it works for you,



Garrett

 

[Big White Beast]

Did some research...

I found an old post where Edge responded to someone on the settings.



#1 Fuel added at 20# boost

#2 Fuel added at 15# boost

#3 Fuel added at 10# boost



If no jumper is installed it defaults to #3



So you would only have to run wires for #1 & #2 the switch it all off for #3. You'd still need a 3 position switch though.



Hope this helps some.



Garrett

 

[fj40charles]

The switch I got at radio shack should work. It is a 3 way toggle.

on, off (center position), on. Let me know if you need the part number.



Charles

 

[zman]

Charles - What's the part number?



Garrett - I could swear that no jumper would result in a timing only situation. Not sure where I saw that though. Need to call Edge I guess.



Steve

 

[fj40charles]

Zman,



Here is the Radio Shack part number: #275-620A Center-Off Toggle Switch. This one has a metal toggle. I saw one with a black plastic toggle too.



Hope this helps. .



Charles

 

[fj40charles]

Oops... The part number on top of the UPC is 275-0620.

 

[HEYBOSS]

Garrett

Thanks for the info. Haven't had a chance to try it yet, been very busy but as soon i get a chance i'll do it sounds pretty neat.

Once again thanks for the time a research.







Charles I know the switch you're talking about, I seen it at radio shack, thanks.



Fred.

 

[fj40charles]

Fred,



You're welcome. I'm also curious to know things work out too. I have not had a chance to hook up my switch.



Charles