IP seals/washers?

[btoscano]

Hey all,



I still have a slow fuel leak from the high pressure side of the IP. I tightened up all the injector lines to verify they were tight using a crow's foot. I think the center 12 mm nut may be what's leaking. Given the angles its hard to see for sure. Is there supposed to be a washer or something behind it? What is the torque spec?



I suspect this is leaking because this nut vibrated loose after I got the pump back from the diesel shop. I tightened it up with a 1/4" ratchet. Today used the same ratchet and got it to budge a little. I don't want to put too much force and break something.



Any ideas, espeically if there is a washer or torque spec?



Thanks,

Brian

 

[Greenleaf]

Yea. I have seen them leak. It's a small plug in the dead center of the head (injection pump). You simply place the truck over in the neighbors lawn and pull that thing out. Don't worry 'bout the diesel that is puking out onto the lawn.



The copper washer is replaced and the plug reinstalled. I simply snug them down. Don't need a cheater pipe here nor a 1/2" drive breaker bar.



Prime the injection pump body with the primer on the lift pump or simply crank the engine over till it starts.



Happy motoring.....

 

[btoscano]

GL,



What about a washer for under the fuel supply inlet on the top of the pump? I don't have a washer there either, but it ain't leaking (yet).



I should probably stop by the diesel shop that adjusted the pump for the washers as they have left them out in oversight.



-brian

 

[btoscano]

This is totally frustrating. I called the diesel shop that reworked my pump and they gave me a new screw and copper washer and an aluminum washer for under the fuel inlet. But that didn't solve the leak!!! Maybe I will have to reef on one of those injector lines with a crow's foot?? Last time I let the truck idle for 15 or 20 minutes and it seemed still dry, but if I drive it into town the leak becomes noticable.

 

[bgilbert]

Where is it still leaking from? The fuel inlet or high pressure side? You sure the high pressure leak is coming from the center plug and not an injection line threaded on crooked?



I'm sorry, 'reef on'???

 

[btoscano]

Bill,



After some more investigation last night I think the leak is one or two injector lines near the block. The leak develops very slowly. For example, if I spray the engine down with engine brite and let it idle for 15 minutes I don't see anything. If I then drive to town, I see the fuel collecting on the bracket and power steering pump.



What is the torque spec on these injector lines?



I thought it was relatively low but maybe I needed to give them more torque. I put tape on the sides of a 11/16" crowfoot since I don't have a 17 mm yet and got the nuts to move a little. I'll check to see if the leak is gone after work today.



I will say that the Cummins reman pump was not done very well which confirms what 2 diesel shops have said after the fact. When I got it, the delivery valves were not torqued correctly. The idle and max RPM screws were not correct. I guess they took the core, painted it beige, and stuck a reman plate on it and boxed it.





-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

I will say that the Cummins reman pump was not done very well which confirms what 2 diesel shops have said after the fact. When I got it, the delivery valves were not torqued correctly. The idle and max RPM screws were not correct. I guess they took the core, painted it beige, and stuck a reman plate on it and boxed it.





I HATE that!! Why can't folks do it right!!?? Perhaps some of us expect TOO much??



Like when you get a bus back from the dealership after a new transmission install. They can't quite seem to tie all the hoses and wires back up into place and secure them. No! Just let 'em hang and dangle down along side the transmission #@$%!

 

[bgilbert]

Well at least it's painted beige. I'm not one to say I told ya so, well I am, but we're beyond that at this point.



First off, get yourself some more tools. $40 you can get yourself a 10pc Craftsman metric crowfoot set from Sears. I tried to find an inexpensive 17mm crowfoot only but they ran anywhere from $20-$$$. I figure might as well get a set for a little more. Cummins is metric. You're gonna need some metric tools.

Second, I was wondering if the delivery valve holders were tight. I take it they weren't, but you tightened them prior to putting the pump back on? The have o-rings. I hope those weren't left out on that reman.

Ok if we know the dv holders are tight, I'd make sure each injection line is threaded on STRAIGHT, then tighten them down good with a 17mm wrench or crowfoot.

 

[btoscano]

Bill,



The problem is probably just that I didn't tighten them enough because I didn't want to overtorque them. I have lots of nice metric tools but haven't needed any metric crow foots until now so I never bought any. My order to the Snap On man is going in today. I avoid Craftman tools when possible, they are not well made anymore.



-brian

 

[Greenleaf]

Um... ... Bill... . the DV's have a copper washer to seal them against the pump head. Or is that what you ment to say. Anyhoot, I have had them leak there. REAL tough sometimes to tell if'n it's the DV holder or the injection line.

 

[btoscano]

I borrowed a mech buddy's 17 mm crow foot and found out it did as good as the 11/16" with electrical tape on both sides. Then I borrowed another too designed for Mercedes intake manifolds to snug up the lowest fuel line that would otherwise require removal of the bracket. Now it seems the leak has stopped and I can concentrate on the rear main seal leak.



-brian