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Is this a TIPM issue?

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Heat woes continue...

Brake Wiring, no power from factory pigtail

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Looking for the Dorman part as well, I've waited a month so far and just got notified of a new possible ship date 1 month out. Did you ever find one and actually get it in hand?
 
Looking for the Dorman part as well, I've waited a month so far and just got notified of a new possible ship date 1 month out. Did you ever find one and actually get it in hand?

Yes, but it took something like 6 weeks if I remember correctly through Autozone.
 
Yes, but it took something like 6 weeks if I remember correctly through Autozone.


Thanks, did it fix your problem with the lights? I also am having issues, started out intermittent, could tap the top of the TIPM and they would work for a while, now I don't have instrument lights, dome lights, map lights, or cargo lights.
 
Thanks, did it fix your problem with the lights? I also am having issues, started out intermittent, could tap the top of the TIPM and they would work for a while, now I don't have instrument lights, dome lights, map lights, or cargo lights.

Yes. All of my lights are working now. Mine was like that also. You sometimes could hit it and get it to work for a short while.

I ended up having a separate broken wire also in the door wiring harness. So after 2 repairs, I have everything working again.
 
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I think I got a jinx put on me when this thread came back up. I've started frying drivers side headlight bulbs on my '07. They pop just like an old incandescent light when you attempt to use high beams. I just love these electronics. :rolleyes:
 
Just another quick update to this thread. I received the shipping confirmation on my replacement TIPM. It should be here Monday.

In the meantime, if this wasn't so annoying, it would be rather entertaining. Right now, all of my lights are working. However, my fog lights are on all the time with the headlights. Also, the key beep when locking the doors with the fob no longer works.
 
Since they require you to return the core, I have not. I'm assuming corrosion or moisture intrusion on one of the boards.
 
New Dorman replacement TIPM is in and everything is working as intended. Two additional observations with this one. First, now when I unlock the doors with the key fob, the headlights come on for approx 30 second. Neither of the former TIPM's were programmed that way (I kind of like it to tell you the truth). Second, I had been having some surging in the cruise control since New Years when I also had some fuel gelling issues. I had passed the cruise issue off as being either a FCA or developing injector issue. Cruise is smooth as glass tonight on my test run. To early to tell, but there shouldn't be a connection between my cruise surging and the TIPM. But, as I am learning more and more with these things, you never can tell.
 
Glad you are up and running again. The Dorman website has a video where they say their TIPMs are rebuilt. They also say corrosion and voltage spikes are the two main causes of TIPM failures. It would be a shame if the corrosion issues are due to the lack of a complete protective coating on the circuit board, like what happened to the IPM/PDC on my truck. A few cents saved by the circuit board mfg = much heartache for truck owners years later.

http://www.humiseal.com/conformal-coating/
 
Glad you are up and running again. The Dorman website has a video where they say their TIPMs are rebuilt. They also say corrosion and voltage spikes are the two main causes of TIPM failures. It would be a shame if the corrosion issues are due to the lack of a complete protective coating on the circuit board, like what happened to the IPM/PDC on my truck. A few cents saved by the circuit board mfg = much heartache for truck owners years later.

http://www.humiseal.com/conformal-coating/

I am certain that corrosion is the issue in my case. Living in a damp, cold environment and having to run through the road salt and slop on a regular basis can't help. As far as the protective coating on the boards, I doubt if any of these parts are realistically designed to live much beyond the warranty period. Planned Obsolescence is what they call it I believe.
 
Glad you are up and running again. The Dorman website has a video where they say their TIPMs are rebuilt. They also say corrosion and voltage spikes are the two main causes of TIPM failures. It would be a shame if the corrosion issues are due to the lack of a complete protective coating on the circuit board, like what happened to the IPM/PDC on my truck. A few cents saved by the circuit board mfg = much heartache for truck owners years later.

http://www.humiseal.com/conformal-coating/

I am certain that corrosion is the issue in my case. Living in a damp, cold environment and having to run through the road salt and slop on a regular basis can't help. As far as the protective coating on the boards, I doubt if any of these parts are realistically designed to live much beyond the warranty period. Planned Obsolescence is what they call it I believe.
 
i was wondering,could s guy just take the TIPM apart and smear dyeletric grease on the surface of the boards,and maybe pack the connectors below with the same stuff,i dont drive my truck in the winter.i'm in heavy salt use area and want my 5.9 Megacab dually to last me a long time and stay mint,i use my reliable 96 12valve for winters,
 
I don't know the answer to that question. I haven't tried to take one apart. It can't help that it is located under the hood on top of the wheel. Not only does it have to deal with the elements, moisture, salt, etc, it also has to take the stress from the under hood heat. All and all, not a design that is conducive to long term reliability.
 
i was wondering,could s guy just take the TIPM apart and smear dyeletric grease on the surface of the boards,and maybe pack the connectors below with the same stuff,i dont drive my truck in the winter.i'm in heavy salt use area and want my 5.9 Megacab dually to last me a long time and stay mint,i use my reliable 96 12valve for winters,

I repaired the board in my truck and slathered it with dielectric grease. Time will tell if that will work. Had I done a bit more research before doing the repair I would have used one of the "conformal coatings" which are specifically meant to protect circuit boards in harsh environments. The good news was the board and the rest of the inside of the IPM/PDC was pretty clean after 140K miles including many Michigan winters of salt and summers of dirt road dust control crud (another salt of some type). The only dirty spots on the board were above the little rectangular openings on either sides of the connectors. That is where the corrosion occurred (as can be seen in this thread https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/259775-Turn-signal-issue?p=2524261#post2524261). My plan going forward is to buy a good used IPM/PDC, pull it apart, clean it and spray the board with a conformal coating. I'd prefer to buy a new one, pull it apart and spray it, but I cannot get past paying a core charge on a new part, especially since its only the circuit board that is really needed.
 
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