Jacobs Exhaust Break

[SLittle]

On my Jacobs brake the threads on the engine side were fine, the other side had to be tapped.

Nemies - the installation instructions that are provided are excellent IMHO. The wiring harnesses, lengths etc are right on, looks like original equipment when you are done.

I also used the shifter switch and love it, I can't imagine having to reach for a switch when my hand is already right on the shifter and the switch is right there. Also, the shifter switch is not lighted so you don't have to mess with the cigar lighter tabs, that power source is for the illumination of the switch only.

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2001 HO 6spd 4x4 Dually - Jacobs E-Brake w/shifter switch, WAAG nerf bars with dually kickouts and Dodge/Cummins rear mud flaps.

 

[Bob Cochran]

As you know I had problems with my Jacobs Brake installations. I vented to Jacobs as I did here and as I said all was quality except the thread problem and the cigar lighter which is a DC thing. Well to day I got a hand written letter from Jacobs a small mag lite, Jacobs owners manual but the best was the hand written response as follows:

Quote:

Mr. Cochran,

Please accept our aplogies for the problem you encountered while installing our product on your vehicle.

Being a shadetree mechanic myself, I know how aggrevating that can be at times.

Please accept this small token of our thanks for your patience throughout the process.

Best of luck with your new truck.

Best regards,
Brian Mauriello
Product Support

Unquote

Gentlemen I don't know about you but a hand written note like this more than appropriate and I am very thankful for. Other companies can learn a lot from this kind of customer service and I salute Brian for his response. I felt it was only fair to let everybody know the good part as well as the bad. Jacobs is a quality company and it showed.

Sorry this is so long!!! #ad

 

[PAYCHECK]

great response from Jacobs there. Glad to hear about the hand written note!I agree with you Bob, that was a great response from a customers stand point. I realyy am happy with my 'jake' E-brake from them.

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01 2500HD QC,SB,3. 54,5 spd,4X4,241HD,SLT+,Sport all black,fully loaded,all leather htd,jacobs e-brake,tow pack,camper pack,,full rhino lining bed and rocker panels,265/75r16 BFG ATs ko,nerf bars,everthing black,4'' Jardine,A. M. Pro Comp pyro & boost on a-pillar,EZ,NO stickers except cummins on door,License plate-1 CUMN, NRA endowment life member

 

[merryman]

I have the E-brake on an '01 ETH DEE; I did the install myself and had no idea there was an adjustment of the pressure. The ETH, I understand comes with the 60 pound springs.
I like the brake, but if I could get a little more effect, I would like it. I gross 19K+, and on a 6% grade, I occasionally have to use the service brake a little.
How is the adjustment made? I do have the post turbo EGT, gauge, so could make the check. What pressure should I aim for?

Vaughn

 

[Ron Bissett]

Originally posted by Evan A. Beck

Ron's Ram...



Be sure to check the backpressure on your exhaust brake... Too much pressure will really cause problems.

I may be wrong but , But D B is the only brake that the back pressure can be set . Pac is sold as a unit pre set for each diffrent vehicle , no adjustment possible . Some use air to activate brake ect . like for the F brand.

 

[Spyke]

I have the Jacobs E-Brake on my 99. Just two points 1st the brake holds back/slows down my rig while towing the 5ver (approx 25k) on grades up to about 6 percent that's the steepest I've been on. Second the higher you keep the RPMs the better the Jake works.

Steve

 

[jstyer]

Jacobs Brake



I installed the PacBrake and am very impressed with performance. Instructions were clear, installation effortless and liked the high brake horsepower. It comes already tapped for your pyro's thermocouple (post turbo) and according to their instructions, they recommend using the brake all the time to limit any type of additional preventive maintenance. THe exception would be, to turn it off prior to shut down allowing the turbo to cool. The whistle is because of the bleed hole in the center of the brake that is "CLOSED" when idling if you have brake turned on.

 

[WestTN]

Jake brake

I just installed this exhaust brake on my 2001 ETH/DEE. It does whistle at idle when switched on. This is normal because the control logic is very simple. Pin #20 on the ECM activates the brake if the throttle pedal is not depressed. As soon as you step on it, the solenoid valve dumps the vacuum and the internal spring opens the brake. This is a feature designed to allow faster warmup in cold weather. I doubt there is enough heat retention to be a problem in summer. But, if there is, just turn it off.

On the vavle spring issue, the ISB's are supposed to have stiffer exhaust valve springs in them already. This is part of what allowed the higher rpms. Dodge isn't going to sell you an accessory that is going to ruin your engine. There are hundreds of these things on the road. Surely someone would already blown an engine if it was going to happen.

 

[Ron Bissett]

Re: Jake brake

Originally posted by WestTN

I just installed this exhaust brake on my 2001 ETH/DEE. It does whistle at idle when switched on. This is normal because the control logic is very simple. Pin #20 on the ECM activates the brake if the throttle pedal is not depressed. As soon as you step on it, the solenoid valve dumps the vacuum and the internal spring opens the brake. This is a feature designed to allow faster warmup in cold weather. I doubt there is enough heat retention to be a problem in summer. But, if there is, just turn it off.

On the vavle spring issue, the ISB's are supposed to have stiffer exhaust valve springs in them already. This is part of what allowed the higher rpms. Dodge isn't going to sell you an accessory that is going to ruin your engine. There are hundreds of these things on the road. Surely someone would already blown an engine if it was going to happen.

you are correct on all counts . The problem is the auto trans slips and heats up cost DC big $ and a recall on the brakes . any E-brake is a no no with a auto trans all mod. LOL Ron

 

[Bob Cochran]

Hey all just to let you know I just came back from vacation. Went trout fishing but the great point!!! I went through what is known here as the Salt River Canyon that has a lot of 6% and even a short 7% grade. Jacobs break worked great as expected and worth the little hazzle it took to install. By the way my 5er is small 21' around 4800lbs add anorther 500 or so for STUFF. Basically the truck hardly knows there is anything back there without Jacobs but still on those grades put in 3rd or 4th gear 35 mile speed limit and some 25 MPH turns it could bring the truck to a stop without service breaks if you let it; course it would stall. Can hardly wait to get a new 30 foot 5er to try it when I retire in 18 months.

 

[RON'S RAM]

Hey Bob;

I noticed in your sig. that you have a 6 speed. Do you have a switch on your clutch pedal to turn off the E Brake? I was thinking about adding this to mine, so when I'm at a stoplight or something, the brake is off. I put the BD brake on less than a month ago, am now having problems with the vacuum spool valve sticking. Bd wants to sell me a replacement valve, then credit me if the returned valve proves defective. (SOME WARRANTY)

 

[Bob Cochran]

Ron~The Jacobs connects to pin #20 on the ECM I believe maybe it gets all its information from it on operation. The Jacobs does not disengage when the clutch is pushed to the floor. I suppose you could use the switch to disengage the BD if you wanted in some manner.

 

[WestTN]

Jacobs Brake

No, Ron, I haven't really thought about doing that. I haven't found it necessary yet, since it is very little load at idle.



It wouldn't be hard to do though. Just a simple switch with normally open contacts mounted where the clutch mechanism would press it in while released. if you should want to coast without the E-brake working, just touch the clutch pedal and it drops out. I would cut the red wire to the ECM and connect those ends to the switch. A Microswitch housing should be ideal for this. then everything would be under the hood!

 

[RON'S RAM]

I was thinking of using a normally closed switch and mounting it on the dash side of the clutch pedal, wiring it in series with the throttle switch. So when you start to push in the clutch, it would turn the brake off, allowing the turbo to cool down at stoplights.

 

[Great White]

I was reading in the TDR classified ads and found someone selling pac brakes. Does anyone out there have any comments?

Why jacobs and not bd or pac brake? Who is selling these units and what kind of warrentee support have others recieved?

Rich

 

[RON'S RAM]

Hi Rich; I bought the BD brake for my truck because from what I've read, it gives you the most stopping power with the stock 30lb. valve springs. Also, everyone that has it, loves it. although I haven't heard anything bad about any of them. I just started having trouble with mine, and so far I'm not happy with BD's warranty process. The brake is only 3 months old, and they want me to pay for the repair parts until they prove that the originals are defective. I am going to contact them again this week. We'll see how I make out. Good luck. RON...

 

[Bob Cochran]

Great White~biggest reason for Jacobs is it is approved by DC and no warrantly problems. Actually all seem to be good and while BD I understands gives you the most braking horsepower at a given RPM than any of the others. As with most things personal preference prevails. So far I am not sure about cooling down at stoplight with exhaust brake closed. Probably won't get my pyro installed until July but probably will order soon then I will do a comparison and pass on the numbers. Probably already someone has by now if they will post their findings. Just have not figured out which ones. Probably Autometer but want to make sure fuel presure gauge match then there is the little matter of the connection to the test ports on my vehicle. If only there was a set with all the parts that could be used be a lot more comfortable than putting together the parts.

 

[merryman]

I have not done a real study, but just on casual observation, it seems that at idle, the E-brake on will keep EGTs about 200 degrees higher than if it is off. The net figure of course depends on other factors----how long, how hot you have been running and what ambient temps. are etc.

The diff in idle temp with or without the brake seem inconsequential in comparison to the temps you will see when really working the rig.



Vaughn

 

[Bob Cochran]

Merryman~sounds reasonable to me and follows what one would think logically would happen under idle conditions.