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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Just installed Edge Comp.. WEAK!

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Did adding an Edge Comp box to your STOCK CTD perform?


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Hey Guys -





Well, hopefully someone can help me figure this out. . I installed my fuel line upgrades (10 psi+ WOT), gauges, and Edge Comp. . I bumped her up to 5x5 & went for a ride. . With the exception of more spirited off-idle performance, I can honestly say this thing does not impress me. . It is a dog. !



I was TRULY hoping that an additional 300 ft-lbs would make a huge difference in acceleration / performance, but it does not. . (or maybe something is amiss here. . ??) Was I expecting too much. . ?? Anyone have any troubleshooting suggestions. ?? I am getting about 24 psi boost, 3rd gear EGTs (post turbo) seem a bit low - 650/700 deg F. . ?? I will make a few more passes to find out for sure. . It was also nighttime, so I have NO idea if this thing is making more smoke or not. . (usually a good indication of additional fueling, right. . ???) Everything else is stock in my 98. 5... See sig. .



Any insight is appreciated. . !



If you've installed an Edge Comp in your otherwise stock CTD (no STACKERS, please. . ) - submit a reply to the poll. . I'd like to see if my seat of the pants dyno is off calibration..... :eek:
 
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You certainly have a problem there, double check your connections and grounds. If that doesn't help, call Edge, they have the best customer service ever.



You might want to scan for codes, if your vp44 is original I would be very nervous about the pump being on it's way out.



I hope you get it figured out, you will like the power once you get it working right.





Matt
 
Good point, Matt. . It probably is the original VP44. . 137k miles. . I just bought this truck & am contemplating a VP-44 upgrade, but can't seem to muster the courage to explain it to "congress"... May have to Ebay some of my blood plasma or something. .
 
With my otherwise stock '02, adding the Comp increased HP by 100 HP, and torque by 300 ft lbs, as recorded on a Dynojet dyno at May Madness 2 years back.



You obviously have some sort of problem, and I doubt it's the Comp...
 
did you tap the pump? if so did you tap the right wire? there is a night and day difference if the wire is taped wrong.
 
when i installed my comp it was day and night. best 400. i ever spent on performance. hands down. hope you get yours sorted out.
 
KKunz said:
did you tap the pump? if so did you tap the right wire? there is a night and day difference if the wire is taped wrong.



I thought I did. ! Looking at the rear of the pump, the connection has 4 wires, correct. ? The 2 wires below are inaccessible, for all intents and purposes - which leaves the 2 top wires to work with, really . According to the instructions, you expose those top 2 wires (I cut the heat shrink away) and tap the one closest to the engine block. . (passenger side, for further clarification). . I could not figure out how to release the connector at the back of the pump, otherwise I would have soldered the gray wire connection. . (I hate T-Taps, but they are a necessary evil in some cases) Speaking of, I used a 10/12 ga T-tap, as the 14 ga. was not available. I do have 18/16 ga T-Taps, but thought that would be a little dangerous for the wire... ???



I also did this at night (last night) - I will double check everything this weekend... . . provided I don't have to buy another VP44. . !



:eek:
 
"According to the instructions, you expose those top 2 wires (I cut the heat shrink away) and tap the one closest to the engine block. . "



"I used a 10/12 ga T-tap, as the 14 ga. was not available. "




YUP - that shoul do it - though your use of the larger 10/12 wire tap MIGHT have allowed the piercing prong to miss the center conductor, and merely pass through the outer insulation.



Mine was a bear to get to - VERY tight wire right close to the body of the VP-44 and NO slack. So I carefully peeled the shrink wrap, pierced the proper wire with a small awl (like an ice pick), then threaded the bare wire from the Comp through the opening and inner wire lead. Then wrapped the extra wire around the outside of the VP-44 lead, wrapped with electrical tape (also difficult due to lead tightness), and then used a tightly pulled nylon wire tie around the tap point to hold it all tightly together.



It's been holding perfectly for over 2 years now, but I have since found a much better type of wire tap at Radio Shack that I keep in the glove box in case my homebrew setup develops problems.
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
It's been holding perfectly for over 2 years now, but I have since found a much better type of wire tap at Radio Shack that I keep in the glove box in case my homebrew setup develops problems.





Gary, care to elaborate on your Radio Shack discovery? Inquiring minds want to know.



jlh
 
dslmacdown said:
Why not use a pump cover? Simple, fast, and clean. It will be my method when I tap my pump.



Chris



Pump cover. . ?? I'm puzzled. .



Anyone know how to easily release the connector in question. . ??
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
YUP - that shoul do it - though your use of the larger 10/12 wire tap MIGHT have allowed the piercing prong to miss the center conductor, and merely pass through the outer insulation.



There was no prong, just a split blade that the wire gets pushed into. . But, point taken - this T-Tap might be too d*mn big. . I hate when that happens. . :D I bought this Comp from a customer of Bob W's who never tapped his VP44, and the factory supplied t-tap was not included. . Anyone know what T-Tap size they use. . ? of more concern - Is this wire a CAN wire, or a simple copper / voltage signal wire. . ?
 
I think the pump cover they are talking about is the stealth product so the dealers and what not wont see your bomb. Mine is tapped and AWESOME I love it and when I get another diesel the box will be in the top 5 to do list!!! I enjoy mine every day!



Maybe your box is bad? The first box I got was real doggy and would work sometimes like it should (new box) but I took it back and they gave me a new on on the spot, so i went back to the parkinglot plugged it in and away i went :D all the way



Ian
 
Wire harness problem

I put my comp in the ashtray and bent the wire harness while doing it. I had it in before and it ran great so I knew something was wrong. Found the Big Resister in the harness had broken the back poll off. It's about 3" behind the box. Same as not tapping the pump wire. Fixed it and it's back to blowing smoke. Hope this helps.
 
480RUGER said:
I put my comp in the ashtray and bent the wire harness while doing it. I had it in before and it ran great so I knew something was wrong. Found the Big Resister in the harness had broken the back poll off. It's about 3" behind the box. Same as not tapping the pump wire. Fixed it and it's back to blowing smoke. Hope this helps.





Dang! There's a resistor in there. . ?? I did have a rough time feeding the harness through the firewall grommet - hope I didn't hose it. . ! <sigh> all right, then - a couple things for me to check. . Was this a standard resistor. ? I may have to pick one up at Radio Shack while scoring that T-Tap Gary mentioned...
 
Resister

I did it a month ago so I cant remember what ohm it was. You can slide back the wire loom to see it. I also used the vp44 pump cover and love it. I got it from Blue Chip Performance or something like that. Good Luck
 
480RUGER said:
I did it a month ago so I cant remember what ohm it was.
Bad Boys R*** Our Young Girls But Violet Gives Willingly (Black = 0, Brown = 1, Red = 2, Orange = 3, Yellow = 4, Green = 5, Blue = 6, Violet = 7, Gray = 8, White = 9 - the color code for reading the bands on resistors - at least as I learned it 40 years ago! ;) :-laf ) How to read the code is explained HERE.



Rusty
 
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