2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission keeping headlight switch from burning?

[Bandit1]

well i am on my 2nd headlight switch , the first one melted after 95k so i replaced that for $17 from autozone, the plastic plug then melted on that one and screwed that switch so i bought one from dodge bc i needed the plastic plug which totaled $88, i did manage to get him down to $60 which is still a raping. anyway i walked funny out of the dealership after that deal. anyway this one is starting to melt and i dont want to have to pay more money if they are jsut going ot keep melting. i am aware of cutting a hole in the ducting by the plug to keep it cool but what about when the heater is on? i have also heard about hard wireing the wires right in, just taking the plastic plug out of the equation. all i have tied into this switch is the lights for my gauges and my driving lights. this doesnt seem to be to much for the switch. any input on keeping these cheap switches from melting down are appreciated. if there are no better ideas i guess i will eliminate the plastic insulation from the plug.

 

[barbwire]

I would put the driving lights on a seperate switch. Might save you some heartache. JMO You might have some high amp draw driving lites. It does'nt take much extra to put these cheap switches on the second gens, over their limit. I had to replace mine at about 40000 also.

 

[tgbol]

I think that I was the first one to punch a hole in the heater duct to cool the switch. The most important thing is to have air moving across the heat sink on the back of the switch.

Even when I have the heater on I like to have some air coming out of the dash vent. The temperature of the air doesn't seem to be much of a factor.

 

[Jff24Gordn]

There was a recall for the switch on 94-96. 4 3500s. When mine melted last month, the dealership sold me the kit for $38 instead of $80 for just the switch. The kit included a new switch, new plug, 8" of wire for every wire and a relay for one fo the wires. The stupid thing about it is the relay uses 14 gauge wire that you sodier into the existing 18g wires. It seems like that wont help very much. It is nice to see that the problem just applied to early 3500's

 

[rweis]

I have been toying with the idea of mounting a computer box fan directed right at the switch which would run anytime the switch is on.



It would be a good double ball bearing fan. They are 12v so that is not a problem.



I need time to get the switch out and measuer the area to see what fan size should fit.



The other idea I had was to make the heat sink larger. Again a size issue.



What are your thoughts?



Bob Weis

 

[Bandit1]

i may try getting that plaastic off the wires seems that insulates the connectors and keeps heat in. i thought about a fan but i was stopped when i thought that i would have to tie it into the switch which already must have to much going through it bc it is over heating. i am on the fence about putting it on a seperate switch or taking off the plastic.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

What I did on mine:



When I added Cab lights and some other accessory lighting I modified the wiring for the switch.



Using the OEM manual I cut the wire that feeds all the parking lights and fed it through a momentary contact switch that controls a relay (30amp from Radio shack).



I connected a 20A circuit breaker to the feed of the relay and connected ALL parking lamps to the relay.



This does 2 things - takes a fair amount of current off the switch, and gives me a way of blinking the parking/tail lights as a "thank you" to someone.



Dan

 

[y-knot]

If you really want to take the load off the stock head light switch, then go to Summit and get there new wiring harness. They plug right in and come for many models, just specify your lamp type. For the Dodge truck it is a 9004. These kits allow you to control the headlights as normal, but redirect the power. After the kit has been installed, the headlight will get there power straight from the batteries, while they are controlled from the normal switch . These way the only load on the switch is a small control load that is used to power the relays. Should help the switch live, while also increasing the light output. Kit runs 39. 95 and is Summit part number SUM-890030

 

[Joe G.]

I agree with Dan_69GTX and y-knot. You have to get the load off the headlight switch. It is barely good enuff for the stock lighting. Either purchase the wiring kit y-knot suggests or, if you know anything about wiring, install relays to power the extra stuff directly from a fused battery source.

 

[San Felipe Bob]

SUVLIGHTS.COM

SUV lights also has pre made harness' and he can configure the them to operate all four bulbs or filiments on high beam in most cases.



This has saved my light switch and my light's are brighter too.



SFB

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by Bandit1

well i am on my 2nd headlight switch , the first one melted after 95k so i replaced that for $17 from autozone, the plastic plug then melted on that one and screwed that switch so i bought one from dodge bc i needed the plastic plug which totaled $88, i did manage to get him down to $60 which is still a raping. anyway i walked funny out of the dealership after that deal. anyway this one is starting to melt and i dont want to have to pay more money if they are jsut going ot keep melting. i am aware of cutting a hole in the ducting by the plug to keep it cool but what about when the heater is on? i have also heard about hard wireing the wires right in, just taking the plastic plug out of the equation. all i have tied into this switch is the lights for my gauges and my driving lights. this doesnt seem to be to much for the switch. any input on keeping these cheap switches from melting down are appreciated. if there are no better ideas i guess i will eliminate the plastic insulation from the plug.

The easy solution to rid all the heated up wiring was to install a set of 30amp relays. Lower the current by just turning on the coils. Your light circuit will only see miliamps while the relay contacts take the load. It solved all my problems and gave me brighter headlights.

 

[datablitz]

running aux lights off the light switch without a realy is asking for problems, i would definatly say to add a relay.

 

[Bandit1]

where do i get the right relay and how do i install it? thanks for all the info from everyone

 

[bmoeller]

Can get relays at Radio Shack or auto parts stores. They have a diagram printed on them to get the wires hooked up right.

 

[datablitz]

radio shack has them, and i believe napa does too, common ones are around 30 amp, which would work fine... they look like little black boxes (about 1" square)

 

[y-knot]

Good gref... ... you guys make this way harder then it has to be...



The wiring harness I referred you to, is a complete harness. You do not need to be a electrical engineer to figure this out. The harness plugs in to the OLD headlight plugs, then plug the new ones into the headlights. Connect two wires to the battery and you are done, how much easier can it get? Someone has figured out how to shed load from the switch, and do it the easy way.

 

[datablitz]

y-knot, what about the driving lights he also has wired into the headlight switch?

 

[y-knot]

It would depend of where and how he tied them into the circuit. The worst case scenario would have the driving lights alone on the headlight switch. So I don't see a problem, the load shed by removing the headlights from the circuit was the greater load, the headlight switch comes out the winner no matter what.

 

[Bandit1]

i believe that i am just going to put them on a seperate rocker switch with keyed on power, it is cheap and easy and will work. thanks for all the replys and all the information.

 

[WMonroe]

My headlight switch is always cool to the touch even after running with the headlights on for hours. I also have my gauges tied into the switch. If my switch was in trouble of melting would it still feel cool and melt on the back side?

Thanks

Will