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kickdown adjustments

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Greetings fellow Parishoners,



I just replaced my old kickdown cable and Iam having trouble with the adjusting the new cable on my 727, if I adjust it with about 4mm of space between the pin on the throttle linkage and the back of the slot on the cable ( which i think is the proper spec as i do not have a manual yet) my truck shifts nice and firm and transfers alot of power when i have boost and fuel, but it under full throttle it shifts into 2nd at 35mph and into 3rd at 55mph:--) needless to say thats way to high. If i adjust the cable to bring my shift points down the transmission feels very unreponsive and shudders a bit at full throttle after it shifts (not sure as to the rpms as I do not have a tach).



The transmission has just been rebuilt and has the following mods.



1. Trans go stage two shift kit.



2. Raybestos blue plate special clutches.



3. Performance Low/Reverse servo.



4. Heavy Duty intermediate band strut.



5. Kevlar bands



6. 5 to 1 ratio kickdown lever.



7 1500 rpm stall converter.



If anyone has any suggestions as to what I should try next I am all ears. I have gone through two stock trannys in three years (25,000 miles). I have not towed anything over 2,000 lbs, but i do tend to have a heavy foot :D . also the old cable was not moving properly and was frayed on the inside of the housing.



Thanks for all help given,

Kurt.



P. S. I would have liked to have gone the DTT route but did not have the dough at the time and I had to get my truck going now.
 
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Well, I guess I should say first I am not a fan of shift kits in a torque flite. But since you have it,,,

Check the line pressure

check the K/D lever for proper adjustment. After installing a 5. 0 lever, you cannot adjust it to the book.



Aw heck, just adjust it to the specs you will find in a 68-71 mopar with a 440 or hemi. This is the "right" way to adjust "any" torque flite.



Dave
 
Your low/med throttle shift is mainly adjusted using the setting screw attached to the VB.

You can tweak your shifts it a bit using the TV cable though. Normally the gap between the slotted end and the 'shaft' is . 180... ... in fact you can use a 1/8" drill bit end. . that is based on the numbers in the 93 manual.

I honestly don't know how that translates to mm though.

If you move the TV forward you'll hav earlier shifts, backward-later shifts.

BTW, if you use the VB adjustment one full turn relates to roughly 75 rpm more before the shift happens. Now I may be wrong so you should double check this with Bill Kondolay at Diesel Transmission Technology but I think the TV is best used to set WOT shifts.

Yes/No... . anyone... ???



If need be we can post or send you to a link for a picture of the correct adjustment to make too. In fact it's on Bill's web site.

Just call toll free and talk to Shanti/Stefan, or better yet, Bill himself... he'll help pretty much anyone even if you don't run his equipment. Tell 'em I said to call...

Toll free: 1-866-504-4002



Regards, bob.
 
Bob, you simplified something very complicated. At the end of the K/D cable in the valve body there is an adjustment one can make for throttle off cable adjustment. But I wouldn't make this change unless you have a dyno and pressure guages handy.

The cable controls all shifts all the time. Including what is called "low load kick-down". Only line pressure and gov pressure can override this. I don't reccomend anyone make changes unless they know what they are doing. I have been building torque flites for a very long time and I have seen good trannys turned into garbage because some one read a book that said to do this or that.

I reccomend a call to DTT if in doubt.

I don't like shift kits in torque flites. If it ain't right, make it right. Don't crank up the pressure till it squeeks.



Make the call, it's cheaper than a transmission



Dave



P. S. did I mention I don't like shift kits?
 
Thanks Guys,

I will give Bill a call and see what he recommends to do. The way the transmission shifts now it transfers a lot more torque to the wheels than it used to and pulls really hard but then defuels way before each shift and my boost goes from 28 to 15 psi. I would like to stay at peak psi all the way through until I defuel in 3rd gear. I really wish I had a tach to see what the rpms are, the truck now can go to about 78 mph and then starts to defuel slowly until I reach 85 mph then it stops accelerating.



I was wondering if anyone would have a way to figure out what my rpms are? My tires are 265/75-16's and my gear ratio is 3:07 as I am pretty sure that I am over reving my motor.



thanks again,

Kurt.

P. S. Bob could you send me that link so I could see the correct way to make adjustments.
 
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