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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Killed the Cummins 12 valve

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12V problem, rough running, dies

Newbie 12 Valve fuel question

1997 Cummins 12 valve Auto with 275K miles all stock besides intake and 5" exhaust.
Truck was driven on the interstate at 80 mph for 2.5 hours. As I pulled off the exit, I heard a noisy clanking from the truck while idling at the stop light. I then pulled over, couldn't see any leaking and or equipment out of place under the hood. Temp and oil pressure were at their normal levels.
Clanking sounded like a spun bearing on the passenger side of engine compartment by the turbo or into the exhaust. The noise would quiet when the accelerator pedal was pressed. Being close to my destination I continued on 10 miles to campsite. Progressively the noise became a bit more consistent, pulled into the campground and left the truck sit for a day.
Next morning I fired the truck up. There was a crazy noise of crunching metal, tried to see where noise was coming from again with no visible signs of broken parts out of place. Temp and oil pressure were still normal. In my ignorance, thinking it was a bearing an not a integral part of the engine operation, I thought I'd try to limp it back home to where I could work on it. On the 10 miles back to the interstate the noise had subsided briefly while driving 60-70mph, still noisy at idle though. While merging onto the interstate and getting up to speed the engine noise progressively had gotten worse instead of better, unlike before. I immediately regretted getting on to the interstate.
I tried to get up to speed, 60mph maximum. This consistent noise, now sounded like a rod knock. I then heard the noise of a chain or gear getting chewed up and stop. I then slowed to 40mph and pulled off at the approaching rest area. I pulled into a parking stall, checked for external clues of damage and fluids again, all normal. While there at idle, a couple minutes later the engine just stopped abruptly. Almost as if the broken internal metal components were so numerous they had lodged themselves into an area that would stop all 6 cylinders of this power plant. Checked the oil again looking for medal shavings and/or new leaks. Nothing apparent. After the engine stopped abruptly, I tried to start again and it wouldn't even make a click when the ignition turned.
The truck has only left me stranded once in the past 21 years that I've had it. This would be the second, and quite possibly the last. I barely put 3000 miles a year on this truck and keep it filled with Amsoil.
If possible, let me know if there is any hope of repairing this engine from the instances described above. As usual thanks for your time.
 
From what you've described, I would be looking for a donor engine that spins freely to rebuild for you truck. Have you pulled the dipstick to look for contaminants? What does the the coolant look like? Noises are part of the equation, what fluids look like is a bigger clue. Can you get to where you can pull oil drain plug and clue us in to what you see? Doesn't sound the best, but with time and $, anything can be fixed! Good luck with issues.
 
From what you've described, I would be looking for a donor engine that spins freely to rebuild for you truck. Have you pulled the dipstick to look for contaminants? What does the the coolant look like? Noises are part of the equation, what fluids look like is a bigger clue. Can you get to where you can pull oil drain plug and clue us in to what you see? Doesn't sound the best, but with time and $, anything can be fixed! Good luck with issues.
Yes, I checked the fluids for contaminants and didn't see any metal shavings or anything out of the norm. All fluid levels were where they should be. I had a little over 2000 miles on an Amsoil oil/filter and fuel filter change.
 
I would pull the valve cover and inspect the valve train. Maybe a dropped valve. Try and turn the engine backward with the fan to see if it is locked up completely or just forward. Killer dowel pin?
 
I would pull the valve cover and inspect the valve train. Maybe a dropped valve. Try and turn the engine backward with the fan to see if it is locked up completely or just forward. Killer dowel pin?
I'll give that a try and see if I can find anything. I thought I had the KDP addressed years ago, but the noises that I heard could correlate to that failure.
 
I'll give that a try and see if I can find anything. I thought I had the KDP addressed years ago, but the noises that I heard could correlate to that failure.
It may also be that one of the timing case bolts backed out. I swapped out an engine for a guy that had this happen to his '90 W-250. One of the bolts backed out and fell into the gears. It ended up breaking the cam into 3 pieces, bent a bunch of valves, and messed up the head along with a few pistons.
 
Pulled off inspection plate on the transmission bell housing, found shavings/debris/chewed up bolts in there. Rotated flywheel with crowbar and more bolts and debris started dropping. This seems to be a better scenario than internal engine component failure. I guess the back of the engine block could still be damaged. Sounds like I need to drop the trans and see how it looks. Thanks fellas

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I thought I'd try to limp it back home

I have learned the hard way in expensive further damage done and by examples from dad: You should just call the hook when a vehicle is giving you clear warning (aka something bad is about to quit running). It may not save any damage, however, you get to pick the place it's towed from. Hint: It hurts less if you keep AAA, Good Sam, breakdown tow coverage on your auto insurance, or the like... they even offer towing on Cell Phone Plans.

From the pictures I see the drive ears on the torque converter busted off. This may have started as a cracked flex plate and snowballed from that.
 
Wow it seems you are a lucky guy, drop that transmission and let us know.
Back of engine won't be damaged as there is the adapter plate in-between.

Probably new flexplate and converter will do the job, that's the right time to put in a decent converter.
 
Thanks BigPapa. I wish I could put the best in, but before this incident my trans had trouble shifting from 3-4th gear without letting off the accelerator. So I might have to contemplate a rebuilt trans as well. All for a pretty rusty truck too! I drive it like a soccer mom these days to keep it together.:(
 
What's the budget for the fix?
No Budget, as of now. I have to pay for the trans removal and inspection before I can decide on numbers. I've had the shifting trans problem for over 75K miles, so I have to decide if I should do trans work while its being removed. I've heard good things about Goerend trans products though.
 
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