Knocking noises

[markha1]

Had my 93 at the shop today for the knocking noise. The mec believes it is a rod knock in the begining stages, He suggested that I pull the oil pan and try and replace one of the last 3 ( 4 5 6 ) Rod berings. he told me to see which one is loose and replace that one. Any way! Where can I get rod berings, and or bottom end work done in Ga. South, of Macon. The bering idea makes some sense to me so I'd like to try that first. So I need to get berings!

Any good deals out there ????

Thanks !

93 Dodge D250 no mods

425000 miles strong

 

[rashwor]

Any Cummins parts house. Go to their website www.cummins.com and user their locater to find a parts house near you.



Good luck.

 

[paccool]

Before you have them pull the pan and replace the bearings, I think you need to pull the dust cover over the torque converter and see if there is any metel crap laying in the cover. Having lost my flex plate, I can tell you it makes a he** of a noise. Could be mistaken for a rod if you haven't heard it before.

 

[CDegner]

"Rod knock" is also commonly a symptom of injector imbalance. It is a heck of alot cheaper and easier to check than taking a hit-and-miss approach to road bearings. Pop testing probably runs about $100 and doen't take that long to do.



Carl

 

[markha1]

Well the injector theroy seems to be the most popular. So that is the way I'll go.

Are they difficult to remove ? There is a Bosh shop in Macon that I plan to take them to. will it matter which cylinder they come out of and go back into ? Or just replace them out right. I believe them to be the original equipment. E bay has a set for 350. 00

that says 93 dodge.

Thanks for all the help guys ..... Keep it comeing !!!!! Oo.

TDR Rocks :-laf

 

[JLEONARD]

If the injectors are original, I would just replace them and be done with it.

They are not difficult to remove or re-install.

Make sure you clean out the bore before re-install.

Jay

 

[markha1]

Clean out the bores ??????

 

[JLEONARD]

Clean out the bores

The holes that the injectors go into. They will be full of crud.

I used a brass brush, screwdriver wrapped with a rag, and blew it our with an airgun as best as I could. Whatever it takes. Try to minimize what falls into the cylinder.

Make sure that the surface that the copper washer seats on is clean.

Jay

 

[Greenleaf]

The holes the injectors are recessed into can become filled with crud/rust. When I replaced mine @ 170 some thousand, they were clean as a whistle. On the other hand, the last bus I did with near 10k hours, I wasn't so lucky.



GL

 

[markha1]

Ok I got the fuel lines off fine, and the return lines off, some of the nuts that hold the injectors in are off to. How the H*LL do I get the injectors Out !! I dont want to force them but they aren't lose either!???

 

[CDegner]

I spent 15 minutes with a torch and some misc. hardware and made a "slide puller". Worked great. Most only took one or two hits to remove. One, on the other hand, had a lot of rust and grit inside the bore. It was a female dog to get out.



I used a 16" piece of all thread and a few metric nuts that fit the injectors, a length of pipe (about 4") and another washer and nut on top to make my puller. Others have other designs as well but they all do the same thing.



Carl

 

[markha1]

Hmmmm good idea ! Thanks, any idea about the size of the nuts ??

 

[JLEONARD]

I made a simple puller also... the nuts are 12 mm I think. I think there's a pic in my reader's rig section.

My son got all his out using a mechanics (Snap on) pry bar. They all came out relatively easy with one or two "pops" on the end of the bar. Even the ones from the first gen engine with 275 K on it.

After watching him I think I'd use the prybar method next time.

Hope this helps.

Jay

 

[paccool]

Mine came out pretty easy with a puller but the #6 one was the hardest. It sits below the rear hood opening and water drips onto this area. Was a lot of loose rust in the bore to clean out.

 

[markha1]

OK the good news and bad. I got the Injectors out today and had them pop tested.

all 6 were below 2200, and squirting a stream. Had them retiped and rebuilt, 346. 00

Installed this afternoon, some effect little quieter and definately drives differently.

The pry bar worked the best by the way . Thanks for the info !

alas the knock is still present. What to try next ?????

Mark H

 

[BCaldwell]

Mark, If it was me I would take Paccool's suggestion and check the flex plate. They make an awful racket when they decide to let go.

Bill

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

I would also take a peek at the flex plate... they can make a number of different sounds/noises that can be confusing.

Remove the inspection plate, and VERY closely look at the flex plate as you turn it using a large screwdriver on the ring gear for leverage.

You are looking for cracks, which can be very tiny to see at times, but you should see something. Then, take the big screwdriver and do some prying on the flexplate. If it is cracking you'll see the cracks more clearly and you'll also have "unnatural" movement in the fplate.



pastor bob... .

 

[jdurham]

Ditto here. I had that happen half way on a 200 mile trip and thought it was coming completely unwound. I pulled the inspection cover and got hit in the fac with pieces of my flex plate. It's a pretty likey candidate. I sure wouldn't spend a dime on anything else until I checked this one out.



Jim

 

[BPonci]

Have you did a cylinder cancell check yet. You can do this by loosening the injector line while it is running if the noise goes away you found the cylinder at fault.