2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission leaking axel seal

[Mhannink]

ok so i need to know what all is involved with repairing a leaking front axel seal. i noticed mine is starting and i need to fix it asap.

 

[kenny61]

funny I'm doing mine right now and came inside for soma advice. You have to pull all teh axles remove the 4wd actuator from the axle to slide out the middle axle. You may need a spreader. I'm prying on my diffrential and I cant get mine out. one guy here said his fell out, not my luck. You can either get the seals installers Quad 4x4 sells a kit with the installer tool or you can make your own with threaded rod and the right size washers good luck

 

[kenny61]

Found this while looking for my answer

PavementSucks.com - Truck Tech - Dana 44 Axle Seal Replacement - Dodge, Ram, 4x4, 4 wheel drive, 4wd, off road, off-road, wheeling, trails, DIY, trucks, Chevy, Ford, clubs, mud bog, rockcrawling, Toyota, Gallery, mud, rocks, readers rides, full-size,

 

[Pavemen]

Found this while looking for my answer

PavementSucks.com - Truck Tech - Dana 44 Axle Seal Replacement - Dodge, Ram, 4x4, 4 wheel drive, 4wd, off road, off-road, wheeling, trails, DIY, trucks, Chevy, Ford, clubs, mud bog, rockcrawling, Toyota, Gallery, mud, rocks, readers rides, full-size,

that link will work for a D60, its just one extra bolt in the hub and a larger set of parts. same principles apply to your truck. you may need to rent or build a case spreader though, its hit and miss as to how easy the diff will fall out. dont forget to keep the bearing caps and bolts oriented correctly and any shims stacked as original.

 

[kenny61]

I just got back from buying 2 crowbars. I popped my wifes jeep diff out with a breaker bar. The one in my truck just laughed that idea off today. I'll try again tomorrow if it dont work Ill have to wait till I locate an axle spreader to rent or buy

 

[DValentine]

Hummmmm I'm about to be in the same boat. Thanks for breakin' trail for me.

 

[Dave M]

Mine is leaking too. Not real excited about all the work involved, especially popping out the diff... probably need a spreader with my luck.



Take some pics, if you can, to help us out.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[kenny61]

Too late for pics its done. The link I posted has em. I just got to figure if i pushed the seal in too far. I put it in to where it seated but it is twice as far in as where the original one was but it was also a different design It looked like it still caught the axle on the machined part . Nothing poured out when i filled er up but a day or two should tell. The auto parts store had cl;osed by the time i did it so i dont have any choice but to wait and see. . Feel free to pm me if you have any specific questions. Be sure to get some 3/4 1/4 x 20 bolts and have a vice grip handy because you will probably snap some taking off the 4wd actuator cover

 

[kenny61]

Oh the crowbar worked I popped my wifes out with a breaker bar and my brother got the crowbars when my dad died so home depot last night and first thing this morning I popped her right out with the bar dont forget the dead blow hammer or at least a block of wood to tap it back in a second pair of hands would have been nice as well

 

[kenny61]

Looks like its still leaking#@$%! Guess I'll be re doin it after the holidays try not to knock it too far in and I'll take a pic or two if you guys still want em. At least its better than what it was before

 

[Bob Cochran]

I don't know about the newer trucks!! In 1975 on a 3/4 ton Dodge the axle seal was leaking and had dealer repair under warranty and it started leaking again. I did the second time myself. After removing the seal felt inside axle housing and felt a ridge the seal was to be up against. To get it against the ridge the seal was farther inside than the outside edge of axle housing. I hope that makes sense. Anyways if you put seal in flush with axle housing the seal would move over time(short time) and get cocked out of line and leak. When all the way inside it stayed straight. I have not changed the seal on these trucks so not sure it applies. Soemthing to look for when you do the seal again!!!!!

 

[WilsonF]

On another forum a very knowledgeable guy says to fill them to 3/4" from the top. They will leak if you go up to the top. He says to remove fluid to the 3/4" level then watch it for about a week. The leak might go away.

Floyd

 

[kenny61]

I don't know about the newer trucks!! In 1975 on a 3/4 ton Dodge the axle seal was leaking and had dealer repair under warranty and it started leaking again. I did the second time myself. After removing the seal felt inside axle housing and felt a ridge the seal was to be up against. To get it against the ridge the seal was farther inside than the outside edge of axle housing. I hope that makes sense. Anyways if you put seal in flush with axle housing the seal would move over time(short time) and get cocked out of line and leak. When all the way inside it stayed straight. I have not changed the seal on these trucks so not sure it applies. Soemthing to look for when you do the seal again!!!!!

That was my thinking when i put it in it would move if it was not seated. I will give it time and see if it stops as i always over fill em a little bit plus I wont have time till after the holidays If i have to redo it im going to try not knocking it in all the way and see what happens

 

[Dave M]

Looks like its still leaking#@$%! Guess I'll be re doin it after the holidays try not to knock it too far in and I'll take a pic or two if you guys still want em. At least its better than what it was before

Please pics if possible. I'd like to see the crowbar and tools that you used too. Did you get the Quad 4x4 kit or make your own tool to remove/install seals? Did you have to replace the CAD gasket or anything else?



Any problems cleaning out the axle hosings?

 

[kenny61]

Please pics if possible. I'd like to see the crowbar crow bar from home depot



and tools that you used too.



Other tools consist of large socket and 3/4"impact gun for axle nut 12point 14 mm socket for hub/bearing removal, sockets to remove ball joint nut and hammer to whack knuckle on side of ball joint to get them to drop, allen key for brake caliper, torque wrench for bearing caps plus other general hand tools



Did you get the Quad 4x4 kit or make your own tool to remove/install seals?



No I did drivers side only so a broom handle to knock it out and 1" and something socket to knock the new one in If I did passenger side I would still use broom handle to remove and probably a threaded rod and washer to pull in the new one thats what I did on my brides jeep



Did you have to replace the CAD gasket or anything else?



Gasket was ok but i use silicone to seal off the covers anyway,I bolt broke 1/4 x 20 and 1"long came out with vice grips after the head snapped off.





Any problems cleaning out the axle hosings?



couple cans of break clean an air hose with nozzle and a rag pushed threw with aforementioned broom handle



The most hi tech tool is a torque wrench I think it was 80 ft lbs the only other thing is the larger sockets for ball joints and axle nut.



If you change the joints you can find someone with a press which in the past i used my friends, borrow a c clamp style tool from autozone just leave a deposit, or use a hammer and some steel pipe of the right size think it was 2 inch or 1 1/2



keep a driveable car around so you can run to the store for the right size "adapters". This time my wife was out and i had no car to ferry the parts around hence the hammer and pipe method this time, a snap ring plier makes the lower ball joint easier but you can get by with two screw drivers.



If I do it in january i will post some pics

 

[Dave M]

Thanks for info above. I don't need ball joints so I don't think I need to remove them. I have pulled the hubs to do my rotors so I can get that far. I'm just not looking forward to this axle seal part.

 

[kenny61]

if you've done a seal and turned a wrench before in the past its not much harder. I was a little concerned with my first diff and I have rebuilt engines it was just new territory. nothing hard just keep everything clean and pry on the ring gear bolt head or the whole unit don't pry on the ring gear teeth itself. if you want pm me for my cell number and I will help if you get stuck.

 

[Dave M]

if you've done a seal and turned a wrench before in the past its not much harder. I was a little concerned with my first diff and I have rebuilt engines it was just new territory. nothing hard just keep everything clean and pry on the ring gear bolt head or the whole unit don't pry on the ring gear teeth itself. if you want pm me for my cell number and I will help if you get stuck.

Thanks for info. I need to do this when I can get my truck (Its my wifes most of time) and kids aren't using our car so I'm not ready yet but I know it needs done. Good you mentioned not piying on ring gear so I'll avoid that. I had thought about paying $150 for the Quad 4x4 kit but its just too much money for a few $10 seals and a tool I'll probably never use again.



Dave

 

[kenny61]

get a length of thread rod piece of flat steel with a hole in it and a washer or socket a tiny bit smaller than the seal and 2 nuts use the flat steel on the knuckle side watch and keep seal straight while a helper tightens nut on knuckle side it will pull the seal in get an extra seal or 2 in case u wreck one

 

[kenny61]

Here's a picture of the tools I used... Perhaps Robin can run the next giveaway contest using this pic and see who can pick out the most tools correctly:-laf