Let the resurrection commence

[Paychk]

Well the rebuild of my truck started today, I was able the strip the damaged sheet metal off of it. The only surprise was the damage to the radiator, it was grazed by the thermal clutch on the fan and damaged some of the cores. So I'll just replace it, there was quite a bit of build up internally and It doesn't make sense to rod it out and then solder the damaged cores shut.



The KDP was 3/16" from seated and it took a couple good smacks to re-seat it. I haven't checked any of the case bolts, I'll do that when I'm ready to replace the front cover.



Next on the list is cowl cracks, exhaust brake, gages if I have any money left, and some other things such as a train horn.

 

[ARedetzke]

Did the hole your KDP fit in have any ridges around it or was it flat? Just curious, I had read about an updated case that won't allow the KDP to fall out, and my tab didn't fit all that well, had to bend it over the hole. I thought it should have been flat. Motor was rebuilt before I got it, kinda wondering what they did.

AJ

 

[Philip]

I think it was the 24 valves that got the updated case. Or the very last of the 12 valves series.

 

[Paychk]

On my truck the case is the old type, no ridge. My original plan was to just stake the bore and leave it, but now I'm going to make my own tab and go that route. The reason is because how tight the pin was, if vibration caused the pin to back out 3/16" then I don't want to chance some stake marks in aluminum to hold it.



Here is a pic of it, the black line in the bore (barely visible) is the pin starting point and you can see how far it moved in.

 

[Paychk]

Now for my mystery, how did a oil bottle seal get into the oil fill tube on the front engine cover & why wasn't it washed down into the engine when I last filled up with oil? On top of all that, it is for a quart bottle, I buy oil in gallon containers.

 

[Paychk]

Here it is, it is in the opening in the cover:

 

[Paychk]

Well finally had some time to work on the truck, fab'ed the KDP tab and installed it along with loctite on the cover bolts. Sure feels good to have that out the way. The front seal is a pain getting it started, gave up for the night, tomorrow @ work I’ll get a piece of pipe to make a proper seal driver with. The one with the seal is a joke.



PS Here is the tab; it is 12 Ga. 304 stainless.

 

[michigandon]

Paychk, you oughtta get a patent on that thing! I know I would feel more confident using that then the apprach I did. I purchased the tab from the dealer and then ground it down narrow so it would fit in the hole and tapped it in place with a screwdriver:

#ad

 

[Paychk]

Naw to common a solution, but it needed something stouter than the typical fix. The KDP took some effort to reseat, so the 304 seemed appropriate to restrain it.

 

[Paychk]

Time for an update

Here are some shots of the replacement core support installed and the mounts. I need to get one with the intercooler & A/C condenser installed. The rubber isolators are still available but the washers and spacers aren't, so I cleaned up the washers and fab'ed spacers from electrical conduit or EMT. They appear to work great.

 

[Paychk]

Cowl repair

Here is the cowl crack repair I just finished. I used the patches and rivets called for in the TSB. The rivets aren’t run of the mill type from the hardware store. I think they are steel & compress with 2 swellings of the rivet shank, also they take at least twice the effort to pop. I used Fusor 109B adhesive; it is the medium set, about 50 minutes work time so you need to move quickly when using it. I like the fact it turns color when it sets up, so you can tell what is going on. The TSB recommends not welding the cracks and I can attest that is the way to go. The main weld on the cowl is braised and to try to weld over that won’t work. I tried to weld some smaller cracks and they ended up re-cracking so I just stop drilled those, to prevent further cracking.

 

[Paychk]

The rest of the pics

 

[SteamDave]

Paychk

This might seem like a dumb question but here it goes... are the patches still available from DC or did you fab them yourself? Also, where did you get the rivits?

Looking in from the door hinges, my truck has got cracks too

Just wondering if you can still buy the repair kit or will I have to break out the fabrication skills

 

[Paychk]

I've had the patches and rivets for a couple years, just now put them on. If you search you should find the p/n for the parts. Any dealer can then run them and see if there are any left in the systems.



BTW welcome to the site!

 

[SteamDave]

Thanks, I've been reading here for a while now, finally decided to join the conversation

 

[Paychk]

Try here:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?p=722839&highlight=4797018#post722839



or here:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/search.php?searchid=272975

 

[Paychk]

this is where I bought mine:



http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=213794



Search the P/N's under Chrysler not Dodge, you'll need to call them and verify availability.



$30-35 per panel & 90 cents a rivet 25 rivets will cover you, actual #'s of rivets is 9 in one & 10 in the other. I added 3 more 1 right / 2 left

 

[SteamDave]

Thanks for the info... I'm sure I'm not the only one who needs to do this repair

I bought my truck new and didn't know anything about this untill I started reading here.