Lift Pump thread size?

[dresslered]

At one time I knew this, but once again, I'm thinking of re-locating my OEM lift pump back to the tank (3rd lift pump failure at 80,000-miles). Does anyone know the P/N and perhaps a source for a hose barb fitting that will fit the OEM pump? TIA.

 

[lmills]

I think you are speaking of the webber fittings that are commonly used in the fuel system. They have a 12mm oring straight thread. They can be found in summitracing.com by searching under "webber fitting"

 

[dresslered]

Thanks Imills, the 12mm is sounding familiar. I'm off to my Summit catalog.

 

[lmills]

it's not in the catalog. you will have to look it up on line. AER-FBM2116 is the part number. And it looks like this

 

[dresslered]

Thanks again. That looks like the ticket.

 

[Ncostello]

You won't find a direct fit hose barb fitting unless you have a machine shop custom make you one... which wouldn't be all that bad probably. M12x1. 5 O-Ring is the designation. If you get those adapters from Summitt... I have a bunch of the barb fuel fittings for them and I can mail you some free. I don't need them.



But... FWIW... moving the stock Carter pump back closer to the tank will do you no good in terms of longevity. It will still fail. In my experience it was a tremendous waste of time and money. Only benefit was the pump was easier to access to change out. But not that much easier.

 

[lmills]

Your right, I don't know how I missed the hose barb part in his description.

 

[dresslered]

I appreciate the offer Ncostello, but I don't want to put you out while I am still trying to decide on the actual set-up to use. Do I understand you correctly that your barb fittings will adapt to the adapters that Imills suggested (-6)?



I found this following statement from Mopar-muscle:



if answer to both is yes the i would get a 3/8 compression to 1/4 or 3/8 npt (which ever has its thru hole the at least 5/16 ), 2 parker pushlock 3/8 hose barb to the npt size of your compression fitting , connect this to the tank end , get some parker push lock hose and 2 -6 JIC to hose barb ends , and 2 12mm x 1. 5 to -6 connector for the in and out of the lift pump ( if you are using the stock lift pump ). the parker stuff is cheap and just as good as the aeroquip or earls stuff and easier to get .



This seems like a good way to splice into the fuel line.



I realize that moving the OEM pump might not be the most desireable solution. However, I have yet to see any other set-up be completely reliable and there are so many variables to consider. The main pros to just relocating the OEM as I see it are:



1. As you mentioned, much easier to replace.

2. Cooler running due to pump being away from engine.

3. Operates as a pusher as it was designed.

4. Stock harness can be used with OEM pump (start-up modulation is retained).

5. VERY IMPORTANT: Availability of spare parts when on the road (OEM parts).



Thanks for all the ideas.

 

[lmills]

2 parker pushlock 3/8 hose barb to the npt size of your compression fitting , connect this to the tank end , get some parker push lock hose and 2 -6 JIC to hose barb ends , and 2 12mm x 1. 5 to -6 connector for the in and out of the lift pump ( if you are using the stock lift pump ). the parker stuff is cheap and just as good as the aeroquip or earls stuff and easier to get .

yes that will work also. moving the pump back as far as possible will help extend the life greatly I feel. The pumps design still plays a part how long it will last. It's not a pump made for the long haul. However like you both noted getting under the truck can be a lot easier than reaching down through the engine to replace a pump.

 

[Ncostello]

Yes... just install the adapters along with a new sealing washer... and then the hose barb fittings just go on the adapters -6AN end. Thats really the only way you can get there without custom fittings.



Here is the last example I had of a relocated pump. This is on a shortbed 2500 quad cab so the area along the frame of a long bed may differ.



Neil's Moved Pump



I tried to make it look sort of factory. So I reused banjo fittings from my truck and some other trucks. I seemed to have a collection at the time. To me... the banjo fittings will flow more fuel than my engine could use by far.



The bracket was custom made/bent using 1/8" steel material. Pump wire harness was just a long extension made by Practical Solutions. Of course one could make their own by just buying new pins and redoing the OEM Deutsch connectors... or get more connectors.



Hose connection was simple. Cut factory stainless tubing and slip a 3/8" Weatherhead J30R7 or R9 fuel hose on and clamp with Oeitker Crimp Clamps (stainless). The banjo fittings were hose barb to begin. The discharge side of the pump used 5/16" hose up to the filter. Those banjo's had slightly smaller hose barb fittings.



Worked great until the pump quit.

 

[Ncostello]

Hose Barb Fittings



I think the first photo here shows the hose barb fittings I'm talking about. The adapter is wrong... but the right adapter is very very similar as per the earlier photo from Summit Racing.



Some other photo galleries I have may help you or give you some ideas for your own creation. Just click on my "view reader's rigs gallery" to find them all.



Also in my opinion... I don't think modifying the fuel module is worth the time and effort. Neither is running the hose all the way to the top of the module as I did. It doesn't gain anything as the OEM tubing off the module is essentially 3/8" anyway. Cutting the OEM stainless along the frame is the way to go.



All this is just my opinion as there are no "rules" to bombing



Good luck.

 

[dresslered]

Ncostello-

That is exactly the kind of setup that I wish to add to my truck. If the offer is still on the table, I would really like to purchase two of your spare barb fuel fittings. Your pictures are fantastic, and you obviously thought the project out. I'll PM you for further details.



As a final question, how did you cut the fuel tubing along the rail. It looked too snug against the rail for a pipe cutter.



Thanks again,

 

[nickleinonen]

another thing that could be used is a metric o-ring to female pipe thread adapter, then just use a regular hose barb. . i have a gates catalog so i am using them as an example... if indeed it is a M12x1. 5 on the pump, gates has adapters to go from m12x1. 5 to 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" nptf threads... i think the 3/8" nptf would probably be best as it would have the largest avalable flow area of these 3...

info... [from gates catalog]

description - - - - - part numbers - - - - - metric - - nptf

[12MM-6FP] [G63120-1206 7253-62815] [M12X1. 5] [3/8–18]

 

[Ncostello]

dresslered, you've got a PM.



In my gallery... you notice two versions of relocated pumps. Same truck... different ideas. The second idea went back to the OEM filter and lost the prefilter. I liked my second idea better than my first. Cheaper too.