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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) lift pump

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i'm getting the bad lift pump code so i think it might be time to replace the lift pump as this may be related to a couple problems I'm having.



My question is that would it be better to buy a fuel pressure gauge first to see if i'm getting the right fuel pressure or can you still get the right pressure with a bad lift pump?



A few people recommended the air dog lift pump but i wanted to know if the stock one would work fine instead.



I'd rather not replace it if it is not necessary but the code is saying so. The mechanic says he tested the fuel pressure and it was fine, i'm not sure if i believe him as he seemed a little shady.



Just trying to see if there is a way to know if it is really working before replacing



thanks
 
From the looks of your other post, get a gauge and validate the fuel pressure. No use spending money you don't need to.
 
Air dog is a waste of money
And what is the reason you have one on your truck?
What if I were to say: "All Amsoil including bypass" (in your signature) is a waist of money too. ;)

Dieseldriver, from what I've read and heard first hands from actual owners, both Airdog and Fass do a good job. I personally replaced the OEM lift pump 2 times and 1 time before that- under warranty. I wish I did not waist my money on the 2 Carters I bought.
Fass and Airdog have been discussed here many, many times as you could see if you do a search.
Good luck with your purchase.
 
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I know it sucks, but I think youd be wise to seperate yourself from the carter pump, they are unreliable and unpredictable, in my experience. If you are not trying to shell out a bunch of money on your fuel system, go with the fass ddrp. Had it on my old truck and it was awesome. I had it on the rail with a big line kit, but know guys running it in the stock location and it performs well there. Dont put off installing a fuel pressure gauge, youll be mad if you have to pay $1k for a new injection pump
 
I stayed with the OEM fuel transfer pumps on my first Dodge-Cummins, an HO/six speed, for 325,000 miles. The first one began to fail a couple blocks from the dealer at 60k miles so I drove in and it was replaced under warranty. The replacement lasted over 100k miles and I had my mechanic friend replace it before it failed as a preventive maintenance with another one because I was transporting and didn't want a failure on the road. Don't remember now but I think I had him replace one more at about 300k miles, also before it failed, to avoid a potential breakdown. That last one is still in the truck seven or eight years later.

The OEM carter pumps were not as bad as some TDR members like to believe. They only cost about $165 from a Cummins dealer back then and worked fine on my truck. I never buy the aftermarket junk like Fass and similar because it never approaches the reliability of OEM parts.
 
From the looks of your other post, get a gauge and validate the fuel pressure. No use spending money you don't need to.

10-4, think i'll get the fuel pressure gauge first and validate it. If the fuel pressure reads where it should does this mean my lift pump is good? I've heard it could still read good because the injector pump works overtime to make up for the fuel pressure.

Please let me know.

thanks
 
10-4, think i'll get the fuel pressure gauge first and validate it. If the fuel pressure reads where it should does this mean my lift pump is good? I've heard it could still read good because the injector pump works overtime to make up for the fuel pressure.

Please let me know.

thanks

My former Dodge dealer mechanic friend told me years ago that Dodge service departments were advised to check flow rates of transfer pumps not line pressure for exactly the reason you stated. I don't have an opinion, just repeating his.
 
10-4, think i'll get the fuel pressure gauge first and validate it. If the fuel pressure reads where it should does this mean my lift pump is good? I've heard it could still read good because the injector pump works overtime to make up for the fuel pressure.

You will be measuring fuel pressure on the supply side not the delivery. The pump can't make pressure out of fuel that is not there and can't draw enough to make up the difference. Get a tapped banjo bolt to replace the one on the fuel inlet to the VP-44 and added a grease gun hose to isolate the sender from engine vibration. You can get all the parts from Genos except the hose which is available about anywhere.

Pressure is a direct representation of flow in a closed system. If the LP has the flow capability you will have adequate pressure at the pump inlet. You need to watch the pressure over a range of operation, temps, and time to see if the LP is good. These pumps will show good pressure at an idle or cold and loose it all once they warm or you get past 1/2 throttle if they are bad. The blathering about flow is nothing but noise to confuse. The flow cannot be measured easily in a closed system where pressure can and will tell you the same thing.

Once you have an idea about what the pressure is doing then you can decide if the P0216 and P1693 is cause or sysmptom. Then you can make some informed decisions on the next step.
 
I went thru 2 stock LP's and 1 intank pump. Then purchased an AirDog. That was 8 years ago and have not had one problem with it. Good pressure under all driving conditions.
Granted, this was an early pump and I have heard on other sites the new models have had some problems.
 
Hey Guys, I'm new to the sight, but I can comment on this one. I bought my '99 2500 about a year and a half ago. Told a guy at work that i was going to get a Superchips Flashpaq. His response was if I replaced the lift pump. After researching the forums, and hearing bad news about the stock pumps I decided to get my gauges first. After installing gauges my stock pump was putting out 5 psi at idle. If I got on th throttle at all it went to ZERO. Ordered the Airdog direct replacement lift pump. Fairly easy install. Started the truck and had 20 psi at idle. 15 psi when getting on the throttle. I personally reccomend the aftermarket pumps. It's not worth $1,000 injection pump.
 
It's on the truck unhooked,Some more of your business
And what is the reason you have one on your truck?
What if I were to say: "All Amsoil including bypass" (in your signature) is a waist of money too. ;)

Dieseldriver, from what I've read and heard first hands from actual owners, both Airdog and Fass do a good job. I personally replaced the OEM lift pump 2 times and 1 time before that- under warranty. I wish I did not waist my money on the 2 Carters I bought.
Fass and Airdog have been discussed here many, many times as you could see if you do a search.
Good luck with your purchase.
 
"The OEM carter pumps were not as bad as some TDR members like to believe. They only cost about $165 from a Cummins dealer back then and worked fine on my truck. I never buy the aftermarket junk like Fass and similar because it never approaches the reliability of OEM parts. "



Wow, I have to respectfully disagree with that statement Hbarlow. To each their own, but you are the first person I have heard of that has vouched for the carter lift pump. Even Genos acknowledges the fact that they are"marginal at best". If they are so good and reliable, why cant they be purchased with a warranty? Calling Fass junk is a foolish statement, but to each his own. Ever since I said adios to the carter, I have had no fuel system woes. Fass DDRP on the 99 and an Airdog on the 01
 
My Airdog motor went bad in less than a year

That should have been replaced under waranty.

Both FASS and AD have had issues with the suppliers of the electrical motors, just like a lot of other high end businesses have had issues with supplier parts. Get the warranty card in is all I can say.

There are pretty good choices for solutions to LP's. Stay with the stock pump and watch it. Upgrade to the in-tank pump which has been pretty reliable. Use an AD or FASS. Or buld your own system with other choices. All depends on what you want to do.

If you talk to the suppliers, a lot of the problems they see with the FASS and AD are install failures. Like anything else, if you do it worng the results are not great.
 
Hi,

I went thru both a stock in-tank replacement and the Carter style mounted on the frame and ended up installing a Mechanical GDP Fuel Boss lift pump, cost me a lot more than a stock replacement for either before and on paper was right up there with FASS and AirDog systems, but after doing some reading a mehcanical made more sense fuel PSI goes up with engine RPM's, after the Fuel Boss system i get 18-20 psi all day long never seen my gage go below 15, (I almost got a AirDog system for the adjustable PSI option) I am very happy with what I got and its nice not to stare at the Fuel PSI gage and wonder all the time

Make your own choice, as from what you will read, you don't want to have to replace an injector pump if you don't have to.

Good luck with your choices.

Regards,
 
Yep, be sure and fill out the warranty card, My mistake,The installation is pretty simple though,Mostly just running the fuel lines and plug in the harness, But like i say do the warranty card or you can possibly be like me and some others out there
That should have been replaced under waranty.

Both FASS and AD have had issues with the suppliers of the electrical motors, just like a lot of other high end businesses have had issues with supplier parts. Get the warranty card in is all I can say.

There are pretty good choices for solutions to LP's. Stay with the stock pump and watch it. Upgrade to the in-tank pump which has been pretty reliable. Use an AD or FASS. Or buld your own system with other choices. All depends on what you want to do.

If you talk to the suppliers, a lot of the problems they see with the FASS and AD are install failures. Like anything else, if you do it worng the results are not great.
 
Why does no one seem to market a setup that uses a belt-driven pump? I see that the common-rail guys sometimes use 2 CP3 pumps for their fuel-flow requirements. Why not even one for a VE or P-pump truck?
 
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