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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) limited slip??

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Tire Size Affecting Speedo

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when i was backing up a hill today. i had one wheel on the grass and the other on the driveway. dually of course dont fit all on most driveways :( but anywho the drivers wheel spun and keep spinng. and i didnt move, i had to lock it in 4 wheel. so does the limited slip kick in in reverse?or dont it work in reverse?





thanks

ed
 
I had the same problem, except I was going forward! I had to put it into 4WD to get going as well.



I don't know what's going on. My sticker and the tag on the pumpkin both say LS.



I have never had any chattering. Could it be too much LS additive?
 
DC says you need to "load up" the rear end by holding the truck with the brake and giving it throttle then let go. Thats what the stealer told me.
 
Lets see now. Hold on brake, ease out on clutch,give it some pedal ,let up on brake,give more pedal,wach in mirror to see where im going,more pedal,letr clutch out,more pedal. did it start to rain yet.



well is there a easy fix for this. somthing better?



ed
 
That is the problem with limited slip. The force diving the pinion gears apart is the clutch apply for the transfer of torque. You need torque to transfer torqe- Not the best setup. It is a compromise out of the box. But it is a lot quieter than an old detroit "locker". And it is what the factory put in. If I had a few thousand dollars extra after purchasing a new truck-- Put in the ARB front and back- or whatever the hardcore 4WD people do- before I drive it. Yeh right after I hit the LOTTO.
 
Originally posted by tazzen

Lets see now. Hold on brake, ease out on clutch,give it some pedal ,let up on brake,give more pedal,wach in mirror to see where im going,more pedal,letr clutch out,more pedal. did it start to rain yet.



well is there a easy fix for this. somthing better?



ed
Weld the axles together. Or you can get an ARB air locker which does the same thing. Of course the benefit of the air locker is you can turn it off. On the other hand, welding is cheap..... just a thought. :D ;)
 
Ihad a '97 1500 5. 7 gas dodge w/ the limited slip rear end, no problems worked great. went to dealer to order my current truck('99 2500 CTD), ordered the limited slip rear end since I had good experience with last one. First time I encounter a situation where one tire has traction and one does not, the traction tire sits there like a dead dog while the other one spins freely. Really ****** off I called the dealer and asked for an explanation. I was told that the limited slip on the 2500 HD stays locked up to a certain level of torque coming from the engine. after you exceed the torque level, the differential opens up and behaves as if it were a traditional open differential. What a bunch of horse I TRIED TO BY-PASS THE CUSSING FILTER that is. Wheather or not that is the exact truth of the matter, I dont know but I have noticed under low power situations both back tires do grip, and under higher power situations the truck performs as if it had an open diff.
 
I think most stock limited slip units are set up very poorly. I had a good local 4x4 shop install a power-lok limited slip in my truck's dana 70, and it beats the heck out of any stock limited slip I've ever driven.



Mike
 
You can make it hook up!!

I saw a post in the competition forum that said there is a way of altering the clutch packs in your stock rear end to lock it up tight. It seemed to be a fairly inexpensive and painless fix. But those boys don't give up there secrets to easy.
 
A few years ago I replaced the clutch pack in the 9" in my 73 Bronco. We didn't have the tool needed to measure how much shim we needed, so we just put a bunch of shim into it. That was the tightest limited slip I ever had. . I could get it to squeal the tires when doing a u-turn on the road. Everyone thought I had a locker or a spool in it.
 
Originally posted by raiste

I

I don't know what's going on. My sticker and the tag on the pumpkin both say LS.






On your sticker does it say LS after it describes what type of differential? Also, what exactly on the tag designated limited slip?



I'm trying to figure out if mine has LS or not.



Thanks
 
If you can't find a tag on the diff you can jack up the rear end, spin one tire by hand, if the wheel on the other side spins the same direction you have a limited slip, if it spins the opposite direction you have an open diff (transmission must be in neutral). I wish some company would make a stronger clutch pack for the Dana 80, all I can find is ones for the Dana 60/70.
 
i THINK i know the seceret

i think what the competition guys are doing are taking the clutch pack apart and putting it back together alternating a friction(fiber plate) with a metal one. i think this gives more surface area for the friction plate to grab a metal plate so it will handle more torque. don't flame me if this is worng... I THINK this is what they are doing.
 
Originally posted by rblomquist

On your sticker does it say LS after it describes what type of differential? Also, what exactly on the tag designated limited slip?



I'm trying to figure out if mine has LS or not.



Thanks



Go tp the dealer and give the service guy your VIN number and ask him to print you a build sheet on your truck it will list everything on your truck. Even what springs you have.
 
Originally posted by jwinnie

If you can't find a tag on the diff you can jack up the rear end, spin one tire by hand, if the wheel on the other side spins the same direction you have a limited slip, if it spins the opposite direction you have an open diff (transmission must be in neutral).



I can find the pumpkin tag easy enough but it is kind of hard to read but I don't think I see LS anywhere. The tag under the hood says it has a Spicer (is Dana and Spicer one in the same?) rear end but I don't see any LS listed on that line of the tag. Also, when we jacked the truck up the first time we turned a wheel the oposite side moved a bit forward but then when we turned one wheel backwards the other went forward.



I would've thought that this truck would have LS as it has every other option on it except leather but I guess it may not. Still a little unclear though. I might try a stealer for a print out but most of them here are anti-customer friendly.
 
I would try what Pit Bull suggested and get a build sheet from the dealer. If you jacked it up spun a tire and the other tire turned the opposite I'd bet a beer that it's an open diff. I've never seen a LS worn out enough to do that. I'm not an expert, just speaking from experience.



Does anybody know if pulling/rebuilding the clutch pack on the Dana requires special tools or is it a backyard job?
 
Other than a case spreader to get the diff out, there are no special tools to re-build A Trac-Lock. I would not advise doing it without a service manual though.
 
Around a year or 2 ago this same discussion went around for a while. someone looked up diagnostics in the factory book, to my amazment it said something like this.



"With rear of truck jacked up, and trans out of gear (or out of park) put a torque wrench on one wheel and hold the other wheel. If you can put 35 ft lbs torque (or more) on the one wheel before the clutch pack slips, the rear is OK"



I can't remember what the torque mesurement was, but it was very low.



Someone earler posted about putting the brakes on (or emergency brake on). this makes the rear act like both tires have the same amount of traction, and both wheels will turn. this works even on an open rear.
 
Limited Slip is a funny thing. I learned from the "hard-core" wheelers years ago that you can "pre-load" the rear end by putting the emergency brake on very carefully by only Two clicks on the ratchet. This loads it properly for the finesse operator to get "unstuck" without wheel spin when going very slowly. Remember you must be pointing straight when you do this and proper maintenance of your pumpkins chemistry is always required.



William
 
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