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Load Trail Gooseneck Dump Time.

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Lithium rv trailer battery

Tire Load Range Ratings

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My driver had a wreck with the right side tires and the gate hinge into the log/poop yard, so we had to buy 2 new tires. The trailer is 11 months old and tires were at 9-10/32's of 13. The new ones are at 12/32's, all steel 14 ply Samson's, $180 each out the door. I paired them up on the rear axle. They were selling the Mastertrack, same spec's, but said they were not any good. They don't have a track record on these yet, so we will see.

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Nick

Had a separation on one of the oem Gladiators already, 1.5 years old, so I bought 2 Hercules LRG 235/85x16 all steel. A little more money than the Samson's but I think they are a better tire, made in Thailand. $198 out the door v/s the Samson's at $180, each. Note the spread at the sipes. I did some switching with the spares and two trailers, so now the new tires are matched up with the Samson's.
 
Have you ever hit your trailer tires with an IR gun after a heavy pull? Reason I ask, I did the hand check on my new Ironman (Hercules) tires on my camper after a 75 mile pull. Granted it was hot for here about 85 degrees and the tires were all about 5-7 psi lower than I wanted them to be but they were HOT. I did the math on the lower air pressure and there was still a little bit of a cushion there so they weren't overloaded.
Ive done the same hand test on my Sailuns on my tilt with a much heavier load and they've never ran that hot . Not even after a several hundred mile run . Concerning for sure. I threw my IR gun in my console to check them on my next run, which probably won't be until next month .
 
I have, but I am not sure what is considered hot. I don't recall if I was ever concerned. I did notice the new tires are different so I will need to go see the tire store. One is an LT and one is ST, same model H-901 but the ST is rated 4400 lbs. v/s LT at 3750 lbs. The Hercules web site shows them both but not enough info to determine anything. I wonder which type to keep....

Nick
 
LT (passenger vehicle) tires have a 20% safety factor on the weight ratings.

20% added to 3750 lbs = another 750 lbs for a total of 4500 lbs, pretty dang close to the rating of the ST
 
I hauled some dirt from one job site to another. The small lot getting a new garage didn't have any extra room for it, so I hauled it to another site that needed the fill.

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I also am going to have to get with Lamar, the lift hoist mount on the bottom is starting to bend/bow. I have been watching it close because before I even order this trailer I was looking at some pictures of the mount and advised the dealer it was too light weight. He agreed with me but said that to his knowledge, Lamar was not having any trouble with it. I had my son look at it and he said it is bent, so....

I also had trouble with the hydraulics, for the whole time, when I dump a partial load and let it back down, it overflows the tank. I kept thinking it was something I did or didn't do, so I would bleed the system, fill it back up and try again. It would work fine empty or if you did a complete dump. I finally contacted Lamar and it needs a restrictor fitting in the lift end of the cylinder. On the heavy down it will over run the pump without it. I checked this one, and yup, not there so I have one coming.

Note the 3.5" tube for the mount, I am guessing it is only 3/16's wall, it needs to be 5/16 or even 3/8. I will put a straight edge on mine and take a picture.

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Yup, it is bent. If the mount is the same as the tube for the rear crossmember, it is only 3/16". Now for the fix...
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It'll be interesting to see if Lamar makes it right with you.

Thanks, TF. I think they are going to be fine to work with. I sent an e-mail this morning with pictures and he got back and admits there is an issue and that they will basically fix it however I suggest. I am going to see if Auto Safety House (ASH) will work with them (Holbrook). They fixed my Big Tex under warranty for me a few years ago.

The restrictor fitting showed up today so I can fix that that issue. It is just an adapter (JIC) that screws on to the street elbow. It also acts as a safety load holding control valve in the event of hose failure, it controls the fall.
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Is that 3-1/2" ID or OD? If it's OD it's probably just sch 40 3" pipe . You could go up to schedule 80 and maintain same OD with 5/16 wall.
 
Nick, hard to tell from the photo, but besides going much thicker wall is there room to go rectangular instead of square for a deeper vertical profile?
 
JR/TF

It is 3.5" OD, so yes, 5/16" wall would work and should have been from the get go. I hope they learn from this. I can't imagine even a 14' bed not flexing, as is. Here is another picture of the mount. There is room on the bottom and the rear but not the top or front. I am thinking in the interest of time/simplicity, to just add a piece of 1/2"x4" strap to the rear of the tube. That should hold till the cows come home. To replace the tube would be a significant project, plus with the rear now enclosed, I don't know how a new tube could be installed and fit snug to the main frame. The top mount is also too light so I want it fixed too. With just the empty bed, it has a slight bow. It is only 3" OD. Note the 5" channel runners welded to the 3.5" front and rear mount.....hello??, only one lip fits. Just like my other trailers, they build a fine product and screw it up somewhere, LOL.
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Finally getting somewhere on the repairs. I ended up ordering the steel online, the locals didn't stock what I wanted, so in order to order some, they wanted me to buy full 20' sticks. The repair shop that I originally had set up to do the welding, wanted my trailer for 3 days for 3 hours work so I called a local mobile service, they will be here today. I did get the tube straight, it was tougher than it looked. I jacked up the center with a bottle jack clear off the ground and still bent, lol... I thought about loading my Bobcat a little at a time, but since I was by myself I was afraid I would go too much. Ended up blocking the front of the bed and using the hydraulics to suck it up, turned out good.

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They are still paying for all of this? With the exception of your time. I completely understand about wanting to do things yourself to ensure they're done right Sounds like they're getting off easy on this one.
 
They are still paying for all of this? With the exception of your time. I completely understand about wanting to do things yourself to ensure they're done right Sounds like they're getting off easy on this one.

Yes and yes, I quoted them $500-600, (they approved it) it came in at $470, so they are sending the check. I told them I would supply the primer and paint, Lol.

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I had similar QC issues with my Branson trailer (now out of buisiness due to tax evasion).
The only thing thats made that one worth hanging onto is the frame was heavily built, mainframe is 8" channel, tilt frame inside the main is 6" with 4" cross members every 16". But the rest had to be more or less rebuilt/replaced to make right. I also built a proper head ache rack to mount my winch on.

Hello.

Please share pictures of your winch rack.
 
Anyone running 8-10k Dexter oil bath axles? My son's 30' Big Tex tandem dually trailer were all leaking to the point the brakes were not working, it's about 5 years old. It was a mess but the brake shoes were like new so not that many miles on it. I had the same issue on my 10k hd Dexters, the Unitized seals would not last.

I went back with standard hd double lip seals and packed the bearings in grease, should go 10 years now and never leak....

Nick
 
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