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Load Trail Gooseneck Dump Time.

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I hate to burst your bubble but a dump trailer will put more PSI on your driveway than a dual wheel dump. Narrow tires and plenty of weight right over them leaves tracks in hard pack.
As for used; I’m considering selling or trading mine on a new one. If I can’t get 60% of new I’ll keep it and sandblast and paint it. If I were buying used I’d expect what I bought to be ready to work. Tires, brakes, lights, hydraulics, and battery all good. Then I’d take it for a ride, checking that it trailed well and I’d measure wheelbase side to side to check for worn or bent suspension. These things are prone to being ridden hard and put away wet. Deferred maintenance generally means it’s in worse shape than you think.
 
Dan, nothing of real value to add since I don't own one yet but have been looking since I had to retire my old dump truck last year. I've also been looking used, at a substantial radius from me, and it's been slim pickings finding something that isnt either clapped out abused or in the "almost new price category". I've been casually looking for a solid 6 months and yet to find anything worth a drive. Hopefully you'll have better luck.

The only thing I can add is depending on how big your tractor is I would consider buying a trailer large enough to haul it in. It would at least save one round trip if you have to haul both to a job which could save considerable time depending on how far out you are. I see this as a major buying point for me personally.
 
I would also recommend a tarp kit, load ramps and fenders welded to the bed. If they are separate, material gets between them, then when you lift the bed the material spills onto the frame so you have to brush it off. They are also stronger and support each other if welded.
 
JR, never thought of having to use the trailer to haul a tractor so I could load something. My mind has only been on going and getting something loaded then dumping it or using it around the property. That is exactly why I am asking in this forum. Excellent minds and different viewpoints.

Same thing for welding the fenders to the bed. And a tarp kit, and ramps, etc. Since I wasn’t thinking of using it to haul equipment at the same time.

Time to start looking and see what is around. I’d rather buy used, since it isn’t going to get used a lot. And I might just use it for a while and sell it.

Regarding the trailer causing ruts more than a dump truck. I guess that makes sense. To combat that, I guess I’ll have to make smaller loads and more runs
 
If you have family like me you'll find needs for it you never knew you had :D

Good luck with the move Dan. Are you staying in your area?
 
My dumps are my go to trailers, it is rare to unhook from them. Dumps are really popular here, they are everywhere. They are also being built by everyone, but be sure and look them over really well. On the surface most appear to be a fine trailer, but on closer inspection they will fail somewhere. Take this new company, the trailer looks fine but note the tail gate. Spring loaded latch pins, how will you pull the pin with weight against the doors and the slider latch? They also have no center supports, just the outer frame.

This is a 6'x12' 10k gvw, I picked it because there is a close up picture of the bottom latch. What are they thinking?

https://www.fayettetrailersales.com...&d=A&filter=bumperpull dumps&fr=xNewInventory
 
You also want at least 10 gauge on the floor and sides. Note my 12 gauge Big Tex, the floor is bent between every cross member from hauling my Bobcat. They do make a heavy duty side wall. Six uprights in 14', welded to the bed main frame. Most trailers have the uprights only welded to the bed side. However, most of them do have a horizontal support. The taller the sidewall is, the more important it is. On a 7 or 10 gauge side wall it shouldn't be an issue.

Keep in mind how much sidewall do you need? 24" is standard, with 20" for the smaller dumps and 3' to 4' on the bigger ones. How high will your tractor lift? I like the 36" with a side board addition. I need the cubic volume for light weight material such as chips or sawdust.

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If / When I find something I'll have to post pics (hopefully before I buy) so you guys can review it for me. Yea - that trailer didn't have a good idea on the rear door. Even I made the door for the back of my trailer so it can open when weight is against it.

JR- planning on staying in the area. Since my brother passed, I'm the only one to help my folks. They are 80 and are not able to take care of a house anymore. I can't keep driving 12 miles each way everytime they need something. So, we are looking at selling our place, their place and combining that with the $$ from my brother's estate to buy something both families can live in. That way I can be there to help and keep them out of a home as long as possible. All the crap I have accumulated will now need to be gone through and moved.....sigh.....I gotta stop saying "yes" when someone asks if I wanna buy their car, that needs a lot of work.....
 
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Thanks NIsaacs - great info - keep it coming!

In the back of your trailer, right side, I see a loop - is that how you tie down your equipment - guessing one of those in each corner?

Good thought on lifting height.
I have a 2007 Kubota L3130 with a 723 loader, quick attach bucket so I can swap to the forks I made. Mostly have used it to brush hog the field and move stuff around. The forks get used way more than the bucket. It is still a compact tractor, but on the larger end. I'm guessing it weighs a little over 4500lb with the loader and fluid in the tires. Also adding in the 700 lb I have on the 3 point to balance a heavy load on the loader. I also got the 66" wide heavy duty bucket instead of 72" wide bucket because I can fit that between the home made sides of the car trailer to scoop out stuff. The 72" was too tight of fit to easily scoop stuff out.
 
Thanks NIsaacs - great info - keep it coming!

In the back of your trailer, right side, I see a loop - is that how you tie down your equipment - guessing one of those in each corner?

.

Yes, D-rings for tie downs. They work better on the side, less chance of becoming a catch all for loose material. I usually tie my Bobcat down on the outside because there is no room inside. I just use a couple of ratchet straps tied to the ROPS and one of the uprights at the bottom.

The L3130 is a nice size and will do a ton of work. There is always a need to lift something around a ranch style home setting. Same with a dump, always something to haul and dump. I am allergic to shovels:)
 
A few months ago I installed a wireless remote for my dump, not impressed with it. I did mount the antenna inside the gooseneck riser for protection but it blocks the signal to the point you have to have a line of sight for it to work. I decided to pry the antenna off it's sticky pad and move it to the outside, yup....pulled the back off the antenna, grrr.

So I ordered a new one, it appears it might be a little better, the antenna is longer. It looks like about 3" for the flex part, the old one is only about an inch long for the flexy thing. I also ordered a 25' cord for the new trailer, the supplied 12'-15' is too short. When my helper trips on a root wad and drops the hand held, it gets run over by the trailer and yanks the cord out, guts, feathers and all. Plus it is dangerous to try and walk that close to the side of the trailer, she needs to be behind it. Not going to buy another wireless.

I also finally parked on a level slab of concrete and measured my trailer, it is a little low now so I moved the hitch back up a notch. I noticed when it rains the water settled to the front.

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The scissor lift is generally stronger and faster than the twin cylinder type. However, it depends on size and placement under the bed.

Does this hold true if the lift cylinders )are mounted
toward the front of the bed? Which do you think is a better design, scissor Jack or cylinders toward the front?
I've seen some mount their cylinders pretty far back, it doesn't make alot of sense to me.
 
Direct mount cylinders are sized for packaging as well as cost. Mounting them further back allows for a shorter cylinder which gives more choices for placement when retracted. Direct mount are also slower since they are, by design, longer to get the required dump angle. A telescopic cylinder, mounted at the front has the most mechanical advantage but is also expensive .
 
Does this hold true if the lift cylinders )are mounted
toward the front of the bed? Which do you think is a better design, scissor Jack or cylinders toward the front?
I've seen some mount their cylinders pretty far back, it doesn't make alot of sense to me.

The twin cylinder is actually an okay system, I think. I have never had one so I am not sure. They are cheaper than a scissors, just the frame is expensive then you add the cylinder. Like jh said, the telescopic is strong because it is only lifting 1/2 the load. Most scissors and twins lift all the load. They are all super slow, especially the telescopic because it is large and travels a long ways. Once you get the first (large) stage up, the second and third go faster.

I can't understand why the dump industry don't address this issue. Surely there are pumps with 2-3 or even more times the flow volume. Maybe it requires too much motor/battery.... I am worried my new trailer will be slow due to the big cylinder on it, same as my Lamar.
 
Gotta run live-power, or wet lines back there, Nick:p

I agree, I need to use my tractor like Big, I have about 12 gallons per minute with it:D

I see some dumps can be had with a remote gas powered unit, that would be the ticket. I don't see how it would work with spreading tho, I think it is only manual controls.
 
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