Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Lock-N-Stitched the 53 crack!! (pics)

[Cliffman]

Steve, where did it leak at after the Lock-n-Stitch? Did the crack "run" further or did one of the pins leak????

 

[Evan A. Beck]

When I Lock n Stitched my block the crack was about 10" long. After a few hard runs it cracked again.

Hence the problem with lock & stitch. It does nothing to remedy an already weak design. Future failure is imminent.



I know thats not what y'all want to hear, but someone's gotta say it. Let the flaming begin...

 

[DavidC]

Hence the problem with lock & stitch. It does nothing to remedy an already weak design. Future failure is imminent.



I know thats not what y'all want to hear, but someone's gotta say it. Let the flaming begin...

I agree with this statement totally. It is still a bad block and if I was looking for a truck I would definately pass on a 53 blocked vehicle. It still pi##es me off that Chrysler and/or Cummins does not fix these at no cost to the original owner after we paid 5k for a 300k engine that did not even come close. I tried just the JB weld route without the locknstitch. Carefully ground the paint off and ground a V. Lasted a week before it started seeping again. My personal feeling on the 53 block is that the resale value will definately hurt if the truck has one and the buyer knows about it.



Dave

 

[ctd8999]

Cliff, The block cracked more and when that happened I think it made the whole area shift alittle. After that it seemed to seep pretty much through the entire area that was repaired. Thanks Steve B

 

[JHSchultz]

I know how I'll fix my block before it breaks..... I'll get my Dremel and grind the "53" casting off of the block.

Instant resale value too ,not to mention peace of mind.

 

[AKDrifter]

So how much to swap out the block and burry the issue once and for all.

 

[DavidC]

So how much to swap out the block and burry the issue once and for all.

Mine was 3k. I now have a 8k diesel option.



Dave

 

[GooseHunter]

Well, I checked my engine today. It is 98. 5, the numbers on the block under the pump are 03G8B11. I checked the right side for more grins and there were no cracks or signs of leak. The location on my engine was not visable without the use of a mirror and light. There was a large wire loom directly between me and the block numbers.



Thanks for all the information on this subject.

 

[EricBu12]

Well I guess I will just wait and see if I am going to be one of the lucky ones and not have any more problems. My crack was only like 2" and I did a 6" repair to make sure I got it all... .



No way am I able to afford to just sink three grand into a new block right away... . If it happens around Next tax return time, then maybe, but I will wait and see.



I am towing this june to nevada and if it holds now til then and through then without leaking or cracking, ... then I guess it will be OK... .

 

[DavidC]

Hope it works out ok Eric. Either way the whole situation Chrysler/Cummins created S##ks.



Dave

 

[AKDrifter]

No flame here Evan... ... ... ... ... truth hurts sometimes.



I'll take my lumps if the're due someday... ... ... ... and if all elce fails, block swap time.



I think about trading up to a new one monthly, but I hav'nt been bit hard enough yet to do it.



Guess if someone offered me even a reasonable $$ I'd prolly take it and buy up.

 

[EricBu12]

Well not very many miles since the repair... about 100 or so... and it is still doing OK. I am towing in may or June sometime so I will see if anything happens then...



I am going to reinforce the areas that are NOT crcked yet with the JB. use a wire wheel to take the paint off then JB it..... I am told by a Heavy line mechanic for a trucking company where I work, that JB has a very high shear strength and it bonds very well to clean, bare metel.



So, If the JB aids in the shear strength by bridging the radius curve, I see no reason not to do it. I mean if it helps it not to crack by thickening the metal there, then it wont leak and there will be no need to worry.



I have too much money in this truck on modifications to just throw another 3 grand for a block or just to get a new truck for that matter..... If this repair holds for several years or longer, then I am ahead $2500... If it does develop a leak, then I will grind, use the stitch pins again, and JB weld again..... Since I have leftover pins, that repair will be free save for the new JB container.



Thanks again to all who helped with advice and the criticism, I hope that if you do have a crack, do this repair, it works. The Instructions on the DVD said that if it were to develop a leak, then you drill and pin that place..... seemed to be a no problem thing... . i mean if they are repairing heads and valve seats with this repair, I think a little water preassure and slight heat will be OK for it.

 

[Cliffman]

Bad new boys. The Lock-n-Stitch did not hold . After about 750 unloaded miles I noticed it weeped ever so slightly. Then, I hooked up my 15k 5er and pulled a 6% grade. That was all she wrote :{ . coolant covered the underside but hardly leaked at idle. It's leaking at about 6 places top and bottom of the stitching pins. I'm going to call Lock-n-Stitch today and see what my next step is. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

[EricBu12]

Oh darn! thats too bad... Well Time will tell on mine, I have 2 short trips planned for my trailer in may and June... .



Lock-n-stitch said in their video that if it does leak to try to find it and drill those places to fix it. If you have any leftover pins shouldn't be too bad... .

 

[BK]

Been following this post.

I have to get under my 99 and take a look.

I have 50K miles on mine.

Warranty is up this spring.

I know it's a real problem, but does anyone know that % of these 53 blocks that are cracking?

 

[ARoss]

It's a small percentage, but a percentage nonetheless. I'm in the same boat ... 135K and still no crack. I'd worry about it when/if it happens.



I'm confused, your warranty isn't up until this spring? How does that work?

 

[nps]

I'm confused, your warranty isn't up until this spring? How does that work?

7/70 powertrain warranty I'd speculate.

 

[BK]

It's a small percentage, but a percentage nonetheless. I'm in the same boat ... 135K and still no crack. I'd worry about it when/if it happens.



I'm confused, your warranty isn't up until this spring? How does that work?

It might work that way from a brain fart.

I'm thinking as I was writing that it was 7years/100K on the engine. . but now I'm thinking it was 5years/100K...

Got only 50K on it. . but time wise... ??? I'd have to go back and look at what the basic warranty was, I didn't buy an extended.



Yea, I know, but if it does, and there is a crack, I don't want to head of for a long trip. I've been following this since it started a few good years back.



Small?? 1% 10% 30% ??

 

[DavidC]

I know you guy's do not want to hear this buttttt. The 53 is a bad casting. Trying to repair the side of it short of welding a Battle ship hull on the side is a bandaid. The thin wall and the ribbing that adds to the stress makes this a losing propostion. When mine reared it's ugly head it cost 3k to have peace of mind that I may actually be able to drive 3k miles pulling a 10k fifth wheel without a patch blowing out. The bandaid may work for a while if your not putting the engine under stress but if you are working the Cummins like it was suppose to be worked and you paid the money for I do not think it will hold. The locknstitch system would probably work fine for a normal crack in the block but it is trying to repair a bad design that I do not think it was intended for. If I had tried the repair it would drive me crazy always crawling under the truck to see if it is still holding. I do not mean to offend anyone or how they approached this subject, just trying to be objective with a costly subject that Chrysler/Cummins should be taking care of.



Dave

 

[AKDrifter]

I hear ya Dave, I'll probly do the same thing you did... ... out with the 53, in w/ the 56, when/ if it ever fails. Yes DC should step up and help out but they will NEVER do that, that's way too ethical and honest.



On the good side, a 53 block is good for pealing off 1100 miles a day with cause it keeps you awake smelling for coolant, looking at the temp guage, and wondering if this might be the trip. How can a guy fall asleep at the wheel with all that going on?