Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Lock-N-Stitched the 53 crack!! (pics)

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff
Status
Not open for further replies.
Point well taken Dave. I'm still holding out hope and thinking that if it comes to replacing the block at least I'll have piece of mind knowing I tried this option first. I think it's worth the 300. 00 bucs for the kit to find out compared to the cost of doing a short block.



I called Lock-n-stitch today and talked to "Guy". He wants me to send him some pics of the crack repair after it leaked. So he can see if I did the repair correctly I guess. Can't do that tonight it's raining hard out and I have to remove the bottom turbo support to take the pic. I'll keep you guys posted...



Crackman out :(
 
Ive seen of 53 and 56 on here, what about a 54. I had a shortblock replacement in '01 and I think th cast is 54. Its definitly not 53 (but the old one was :) )
 
Someone on this board had a 54 or 55 block crack in the same spot. They posted about this in the last year or two. Nobody made much of it, but it appears that the 53 may not be the only block that can have this problem.



Dan
 
I have great news men Oo. Oo. Pressure tested the system and all the heater hose clamps were loose and 2 of them leaked. :eek: Don't ask me how or why because I don't understand it. I pressure tested after I repaired the crack and it held 15 lbs for over an hour. I tightened up all the clamps and pressure tested and it appears that the crack patch is holding. Keep your fingers crossed... I'll be pulling my "home-a-way from home" back in a few weeks and that will be the test. Again, I'll keep you posted
 
My wife's Altima drives me nutz with the radiator hose clamps.

When ever we get our first few nights of the lowest temps for the season, one, two or three of the clamps loosen up ( I guess from the shrinkage of the aluminum) and she gets little leaks. Tighten everything up and it's fine for the season.

Every year since new, drives me nutz.

I've replaced the clamps a few times, no difference.



My Jeep and Dodge don't do it.



Good luck with the trip.
 
Cliff,



Whew!! that is good news!1 Let me know on your heavy test. ... . wait, you already did that right? 6% grade already? ... . How long was your crack when you repaired it? Mine was like 2" but I made sure I got it all by doing about 4" total. Don't have very many miles since my repair but I have done some hard accelerations making 40# boost and 900 deg exhaust... . albiet short term but I did make it work some... . still no leak on mine...
 
Well now I have some bad news :( We have a new crack :{ that’s right! a new crack :mad: About 3 inches from the patched crack towards to front of the engine there's a new 2" crack. It's right in front of the engine mount and no way to do it from underneath. This time I'll have to remove the twins and perform the repair from the top side. :{ :{ :{. I'm going to drive it hard before I do this repair to make sure the dang thing is done cracking. Anybody got a match #@$%! #@$%! #@$%!
 
Last edited:
AGGHHHHH!!! its down, its up, its down again!!!



So, there is a new crack in a new area... ... Sound thinking on my doing the JB Weld Reinforcing the curved line (doing it tomorrow) when there isn't any cracks in that area..... By making that area thicker.



The JB is resistant to 300 degrees, bonds to metal, and has a great shear strength, ... . ???? If it works, it's cheap. . And I am willing to spend a little and try something even if it ultimately fails.



On the Curved area, picture this, make an arch with your left hand... like 90 degree curve, ... ... then bridge that with the fingers of your right hand from palm to fingertip of the left. This will make a very thick bridge that will give the weak metal there, some good reinforcement.



I got an aftermarket Warranty, I was told that power upgrades are OK... haven't gotten the paperwork yet so I will read the fine print when I get it. If the block fails, then I will try the warranty... . This will be a good deal as the Warranty is $2300 and a new block is about $3000..... And My Warranty will be paid off in 12 months... . Finance free.



I bought the heavy duty Version of the JB Weld that is made for blocks and such... . There are 3 types. ... "Quick", "Marine", and "Heavy Duty"
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top