Locking hubs conversion kits for Dodge trucks?

[Evanson]

And yet I am a proponent for running spyntech's

 

[avvblanc01]

The previous owner of my truck installed yukon locking hubs after the front wheel bearings went out and since its been my truck, Ive loved having these hubs on. Every few hundred miles Ill leave the hubs locked just so everything on the front end can spin and get lubed and the difference in handling is very apparent. It always catches me off guard when I lock them for the first time.

Its hard to say if I would spend the money on them myself, but I do notice a 1-2mpg difference, much better handling, and much better low speed steering response. again like everyone else said, its nice to have 2wd low when towing trailers up steep driveways and such. Id also like to think that the front end components will last longer, along with the wheel bearings being much nicer than the stock units.

 

[brods]

It is an upgrade that just might pay for itself. It can also cost more in the long run. Take the old EMS kit on my truck. It was cobbled together from off the shelf parts. Redrilled ford spindles, etc. The kit lets water into the wheel bearings. Repacking the bearings, at minimum, costs the price of a pair of seals. If the bearings need replacing that costs even more. The stub shafts need ujoint spacers yet none were supplied. This caused the failure of a few sets of wheel ujoints before my dumb as$ figured it out. We all know those ujoints are not cheap. The spindle/stub shaft engagement is wrong so the stub shaft needle bearings ride half off the machined bearing surface on the stub shaft. At least those needle bearings are cheap to replace....

Bottom line is choose your freespin kit carefully. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Even now I'd like to get the Spyntec kit, which looks like the most sealed of all the kits, but it is hard to justify spending that much when I can make do with all the shortcomings of the kit on my truck.

 

[SierraRam]

SierraRam,
What are you running for lift, tire, wheel, axle ratio? thanks

I have a 8" long arm rock crawler/Carli hybrid. I have Nitto Mud Grappler 37x13.50x18's on Ultra Rogue wheels 18x10. 373 ratio but have a G56 trans.

 

[AEdelheit]

Nice setup, do you know what the wheel offset is?

 

[SierraRam]

5.5" BS, with that I get a slight rub on the control arm at full steering lock but I prefer that instead of the tires sticking out another inch.

 

[DavidHook]

I waited for 4 wheel parts wholesalers to run their yearly vendor sales in the SFO bay area.
I Picked up the Dyna's on sale and had them installed by the shop in Santa Rosa,Ca.
The Dodge dealership noted the unit bearings were starting to fail, so, after weighing the gains and looking forward down the road and longevity of the truck, I bit the bullet with zero regrets.
The reality is ....its a chunk of change to get the conversion done, but I don't plan on leaving any $$$$$$ behind when I die either, sorry kids, get a job!!!!!
If you plan on keeping your rig for several more years and don't wreck it, it becomes a great asset and I think it would increase some resale value as well.
It's day and night difference when steering the beast, feels like the front axle lost about 200 lbs instantly when I got it out after the conversion was completed.
Much more responsive than having all that mass turning all the time. Fuel mileage wise, that's debatable since I don't know how to drive 55, its off the charts
I did have warn hubs and new axle shaft seals replaced during the mod (preventive maintenance) which increased the total, so much for the savings! poof gone!
I recently had one hub delaminate the chrome, went in and replaced the set, no questions asked,... but I think the rock/ small boulder I hit last year while deer hunting while maneuvering on a jeep trail was the culprit, and yes they do stick out a little with the factory sized wheels. Since I'm not looking for speed, but improved utility and longevity use from big red, I went this route. I Hope this helps with your final improvements and save your pennies!, Dave.

 

[Motorhead]

Dave.... Well said! It ISN'T about when you will "Break Even" for the expense. It IS about: lighter steering, low range reverse, not turning all the front driveline and axels that wear out too. AND you mentioned better resale even though I am not selling mine. Yes, it adds more unsprung weight to each front wheel but I feel it is a much stronger set up than the unit bearings. The extra added expense is when you have to pay to have them installed. I have done 4 sets and being lucky that the trucks are all WEST coast, non rusty trucks, the job is involved but not all that difficult if you have the right basic tools.

 

[AEdelheit]

With how heavy these axles are I have a very hard time believing you could feel the added unsprung weight of the free spin kit.

 

[Motorhead]

With how heavy these axles are I have a very hard time believing you could feel the added unsprung weight of the free spin kit.

I'm not saying I can feel it but saying that the removal of the sealed hub then adding the free spin bearing hub and inner snout that the bearing hub fits on. That is extra weight. Thats it.

 

[Regcabguy]

There's pros and cons on either side. Shutting down all that fulltime rotational mass and 4wLo is why I got it.
I don't ever expect it to pay for itself in fuel savings.
I am thankful for my manual transfercase lever. When I declined the electronic shift option the fleet guy remarked "really?"

 

[Motorhead]

Yeah Dave, Mine is manual too on the transfer. Just about anything "electronic" is just an invite for "MURPHY" to come in to play.

 

[MLam]

I just completed installing the Spyntec Shorty Hub Conversion Kit. Since my axle u-joints were bad (i.e. all of the needle bearings were gone), I replaced them also with TK40446 Torque King® Greaseable Axle U-Joints from Quad 4x4. The Spyntec kit is well made and engineered. The installation of the kit was completed without incident. However, the removal of the OEM parts was made more challenging by rust. I live in a city that uses winter road salt for four (4) months. One possible advantage of the Spyntec design is that the ABS sensor and ring are fully enclosed by the spindle housing and a V lip seal.

 

[Shadrach]

I ran Dyna Tracs on my 03. I did it for the 2WD low for backing up the trailer. I had a stick with a grabby clutch. From that point of view it was great. Sometimes in the winter it would have been nice to just turn the knob on the dash and "poof" I am in 4 WD. If it was real slippery in town I just left them locked and went in and out of 4WD with the dash switch. Once when in a campground I stopped on a gravel hill and when I let the clutch out all I did was dig a hole with the rear tires. Because I had manual hubs I had to shut the truck off in gear, get out, lock the hubs, get back in, start the truck up and continue on my way. Then you got to remember that they are locked or you will drive the rest of your trip with them locked.

I cut my new studs down because I was running stock rims and centre caps but I think I could have used stock studs instead. You do have to remember to repack the bearings otherwise you will have issues and it will be more expensive to fix than to replace the stock hubs.

I don't plan on installing them on my 08.

David