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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Looking at Getting A 2nd Gen 12V

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering boxes Q & A

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Electrical/lift pump?

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I looked at 95 3500 4x4 5spd today 168k and its in real good shape for its age and miles. It drives really well. The only thang that I'm concerned about is for one thang it idles at almost 1000rpm which I figure can be turned back down. Also the motor kinda shakes just a little at about 1200-1250rpms while outta gear but it doesn't do it at any other rpm. And while idling the shifter will shake a little but not much even though the motor doesn't. I figure that's due mostly to the high idle. The fuel gauge don't work either so what could be the cause of that? Any ideas/insight into the issues would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
When you say shifter, i assume you mean 4x4 shifter. Mine rattles as well. I saw a TSB or something on it, where they bend a part of the linkage or something stupid. The knob is threaded. I unscrewed mine, put a layer of electrical tape on the threads, and it absorbed a lot of the energy. Now it only rattles when i shift back to 2WD from 4LO, just for a bit, or when its low on transmission fluid.
 
That is commnon as well. The idle is just a screw on the back of the pump. It is a 10mm bolt. The fuel gauge was bad on my 95 when I bought it too. Check to see if the pump has been tinkered with. On the top of the pump where the AFC bolts up to it there should be 2 8mm bolts, One tamperproof bolt that looks like it has a small hole in the middle of it and One flat head bolt. (I think that is how mine was) How much are they asking for the truck?
 
They're asking 12,500. Paints in great shape with only one baseball size flake especially compared to some I've seen. Motor seems to have more power than my dad's 96 but this truck has 4. 10 gears as opposed to 3. 55 so maybe that's why. Its also got 6 new tires and its never had a 5th wheel or gooseneck so it shouldn't of been work hard. It seems like a good price to me. What do yall think.
 
Thanks. I overlooked it. :rolleyes: :-laf

Well, for comparisons sake, I paid $15k for my '97, in 2001. Had 139k on it at the time.

If that motor already ran perfect, and the truck in superb shape, I might be willing to pay $12k for it. Although, considering the prices and emission crap on a new truck, $12k looks pretty good for a clean truck.

I'd prefer a '97-98. 4 with a manual trans, since it has the most stock power (215 vs 175) and hydraboost assist brakes. Plus, if you want to BOMB the engine, it has the most potential, with the least amount of parts. :D

kbb.com lists it for $10. 5k, assuming it has a club cab, in excellent condition.
 
bmoeller you said it has the most potential with the least amount of parts. Whats the differences in the 215s and the 175. I figured it just be the pump that'd be different but I would prefer a 97-98. 5 but they're hard to find in good shape @ a reasonable price. The stealerships got a nice 98 12v 5spd 4x4 but its got 250k mi. which doesn't bother me. But they seem to think it worth $17000 and I don't, I also had never seen the truck before in my life till they got it. But on the plus side it was owned by a TDR member who seem to excelent care of it.
 
Maybe here's a good thread to ask if I'm asking a good price for my truck which is in the TDR Classifieds.



120K miles, $14000
 
The ruff idle may , be in need of a valve adjustment , usally the biggest symtom of out of adjustment , ruff idle , then one or more injectors have issues , bad spray pattern ???
 
There are dealers that are on to the popularity of the Cummins. They like to ask big bucks and if they can provide the financing, the buyer has no idea they are paying too much.



If you love the truck, buy it. If not, keep shopping. There are nice trucks available at fair prices.
 
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