looking at new work truck

[MA2LA]

I'm looking to buy a new work truck soon and had at one point decided jst to get a 3/4 utility body gaser but now things have changed and will be towing a 28ft extra tall enclosed trailer for work so i'm thinking th 3/4 gasser wount be too happy. the ebate is between the 3500 and the 4500. is it worth the extra price. i do care about 1500 pounds of tools all the time and as much as i love my curent 35000 and its served me well i just dont feel like its built heavy enough to beat on everyday withe the crappy roads and traffic I see. I know the 3500 C&c will do the job but is it worth stepping up to the 4500. It will be a 2wd truck so i' dont know how well they hold up compared to the 4x4 where i finaly had to install a set of carlie ball joints after the first 2 sets failed. along with 2 sets of wheel bearings. I see about 50k a year and down time sucks.

 

[HBarlow]

The Ram 3500 chassis cab will do a fine job for you. 1500 lbs. of tools is no weight at all for a 3500. The 3500 chassis cab is a different truck than a 3500 pickup. The frame and suspension, front and rear, are stiffer than the equivalent pickup. The rear spring packs are six or more leafs instead of the four leafs of a pickup. If you choose the automatic transmission, the C&C offers the Aisin rather than the MOPAR 68RFE.

However, if you prefer the additional capability of the 4500, it is certainly stronger and more capable than the 3500, just rides a little stiffer. Can't offer an opinion about the price difference, only the buyer can make that decision.

I would recommend test driving both before you decide.

 

[PLefever]

I agree with Harvey, having just purchased a 4500 2wd, acouple thoughts, one is that the cab and chassis offers a much better front end then 2wd pickups, also a guy should consider things like property tax, tags, insurance and finance, as you move up in class so goes the rates. For the most part unless your towing 20k and above or had a really heavy service bed the 3500 would most likely be more than adequate, your preference and a test drive are the real factors. That being said, if a 16" chainsaw is big enough, buy a 18, if a 2lb hammer will work a 3lb is faster, but not always true on trucks due to gear ratio, weight, fuel economy, driveability etc. .



good luck with your purchase,



Perry

 

[RVTRKN]

All good points so far, however the front end on the C&C are the same as the 4X4, just the pumpkin has been gutted. So no axle or U-joints but every thing else is the same, but you can also get beefier front springs like I did.



One thing that I failed to see or think about, is the fact your now exposed to scales and the registration is more expensive. Insurance is double the money, and if it wasn't for the all the insurance I have through AAA I would have been stuck with it. For the moment I retired my C&C to personal use, but if I get back to contracting it will double.



Registering it through California DMV is another story, they don't care if its for personal use, so I had to register it for 15K GVW/GCVW which puts me in a grey area. If I tow my personal RV's and blow by the scales (which I do) I'm risking a ticket as well as running over the declared GVW/GCVW. However, it is registered as if its a regular 3500, as far as the weight is concerned, its just that DMV and DOT might stick it to me someday. If it was a regular 3500 DRW, it would be like I don't exist in the DOT arena, as long as you don't tow commercial. Just some food for thought.

 

[RVTRKN]

Just to add another comment, If you add air bags to your suspension, the rear springs would be as the C&C, it would just sit lower than the C&C.

 

[HBarlow]

All good points so far, however the front end on the C&C are the same as the 4X4, just the pumpkin has been gutted. So no axle or U-joints but every thing else is the same, but you can also get beefier front springs like I did.

One thing that I failed to see or think about, is the fact your now exposed to scales and the registration is more expensive. Insurance is double the money, and if it wasn't for the all the insurance I have through AAA I would have been stuck with it. For the moment I retired my C&C to personal use, but if I get back to contracting it will double.

Registering it through California DMV is another story, they don't care if its for personal use, so I had to register it for 15K GVW/GCVW which puts me in a grey area. If I tow my personal RV's and blow by the scales (which I do) I'm risking a ticket as well as running over the declared GVW/GCVW. However, it is registered as if its a regular 3500, as far as the weight is concerned, its just that DMV and DOT might stick it to me someday. If it was a regular 3500 DRW, it would be like I don't exist in the DOT arena, as long as you don't tow commercial. Just some food for thought.

You're scaring the prospective buyer unnecessarily. None of that crap applies to an ordinary cab and chassis owner in the United States. All the excessive regulations and taxes you listed only apply in the socialist state of KA and perhaps NY, MA, and other NE socialist states.

My registration is ordinary light truck registration that includes a standard annual registration fee of approximately $50 plus declared weight tax and an ordinary automobile insurance policy. Both are essentially the same as my two previous Ram duallies.

 

[WMoroni]

You're scaring the prospective buyer unnecessarily. None of that crap applies to an ordinary cab and chassis owner in the United States. All the excessive regulations and taxes you listed only apply in the socialist state of KA and perhaps NY, MA, and other NE socialist states.



My registration is ordinary light truck registration that includes a standard annual registration fee of approximately $50 plus declared weight tax and an ordinary automobile insurance policy. Both are essentially the same as my two previous Ram duallies.

I'm a farmer here in Louisiana. The last three 3/4 ton dodges I've owned have all had to have the expensive B plates (truck tags) which had to be renewed every year. The insurance cost me about $1300 a year per truck. A couple weeks ago I stepped up to a 2011 3500 C&C. It rides better than my 07 3/4 ton (execpt over speed bumps, they're pretty harsh with the truck empty) tows better, and to top it off I put farm tags on it (half the price for the same weight plus it last 4 years instead of 1) and my insurance is $100 cheaper per year on a truck with a higher cost code. So all in all your results may vary, but I believe insurance and registration should definatly be considered. In my case it was better to go with the C&C.

 

[d6c]

Light truck registration (car plates) in Oregon is limited to 10k gvw today, a few years ago it was 8k. LOTS of rigs running around improperly plated (ie illegally) oh well

 

[RVTRKN]

You're scaring the prospective buyer unnecessarily. None of that crap applies to an ordinary cab and chassis owner in the United States. All the excessive regulations and taxes you listed only apply in the socialist state of KA and perhaps NY, MA, and other NE socialist states.



My registration is ordinary light truck registration that includes a standard annual registration fee of approximately $50 plus declared weight tax and an ordinary automobile insurance policy. Both are essentially the same as my two previous Ram duallies.

well I'm glad you live in Texas.

 

[HBarlow]

well I'm glad you live in Texas.

ME TOO!

We still have plenty of room for those of you who decide to escape the socialist dominance of KA.

 

[MA2LA]

I'm going to stop by the ******* and see what they have today. one of the things that has bugged me is the weak ball joints and wheel bearings in my 3500. the roads in DC and many places i go suck and i'm hoping to not have to do ball joints and wheel bearings as much. and i know th tries will last longer on the 4500 but cost more to replace. and i'm sure the 3500 tires will last longer than my curnet trucks since it will stay stock and will not e driven like a sports car either.

 

[RVTRKN]

A 3500 C&C will do just fine for your needs, a 4500 will give you the extra capacity, but will be harder to get by your insurance and DMV, if your State is as strict as California.



HBarlow, no need to chime in, as I not trying to scare anybody, just relaying my experience as an owner of a C&C. Just research your State DMV and see if there are any drawbacks. If I would of known about the difference between a 3500 C&C and a regular 3500 regarding DMV, I would of purchased a regular 07 5. 9 3500 and not have a smog restrictive engine.

 

[MA2LA]

Ok i've decided that the 4500 dosen't make much sense but now trying to be as objective as posible about the whole thing is tough. I am also looking at fords and chevys trying to find the best buy and also factoring in the gas vs diesel debate. The owner wants to get the best truck for the job with the least amount of cash out lay. I found a nice 3500 with the body i want but its a hemi but only will cost me about 28k out the door. the price is nice and can be had for about 10k under what i seem to find a 6. 7. I know myself that to hual around the tools and other stuff(1500 pounds of tools plus other stuff) and beable to tow up to and maybe over 10k often that a diesel is the right option but to justify the extra money is proving hard to do. the combined gvw would be up to 20k and depending on how you read some of these sites that really don't want to give you hard numbers except on thier most expensive models .

 

[RVTRKN]

Had a 2500 gasser with the older Magnum 360, and even though it was a good truck, it doesn't compare to a Diesel. You will find it sluggish and overburdened at 20K GCVW, also your MPG will be horrible, and thats at 10K GVW. The deal is great, until you have to fill it up every three days. I would strongly recommend a CTD, if your looking for longivity as well as economy.

 

[PLefever]

Just my 2 cents, the hemi is a great little engine, my wifes 09 1500 is a hoot to drive gets 18-19mpg on the highway with 3. 92's and 17 city, you hook a 2 wheel trailer with a four wheeler on it and it drops to 13 on the highway, you add a 4 wheel trailer and 2 four wheelers and you can run 11 if you hit any winds at all. On a two wheel trailer I pulled my Harley back from Chicago and got 11, and kicks down on hills.



p

 

[MA2LA]

I'm having heck of a time finding a truck and trying to find good documentaion of the benifits of diesel over gas. . I know its a no brainer to get the diesel but to my boss who is only looking at the initial purchase price and not the hard facts of cgvw and just longevity and the fact hes not a truck guy or much of even a car guy at all. Its hard even finding a 3500 with the 6. 7 right now

 

[RVTRKN]

Well the only thing that will change his mind, will be the price tag. At $7K over the gasser it will be a challenge. A good example of the difference between my 94 2WD auto 2500HD 360 Magnum and the 04. 5 4X4 6 spd. 2500 CTD is about 250 miles more on a tank of fuel. Here in So Cal, if you travel East or North you have steep grades you must climb to get out of the valley. I could watch my fuel gage move with the gasser climbing in lower gear at higher RPM to keep the torque and HP up. The CTD hardly notices the grades and in 5th climbing at 20K GCVW (I could never do that with my gasser) its a dream to drive. I always had to get fuel in Barstow so I could make it to Vegas or Havasu. With the CTD I get fuel in Vegas with fuel to spare if I wanted to wait.



But beware, my Boss fell into this trap when he bought a 05 2WD DMAX thinking he would get better fuel mileage, it only gets 10 MPG at 10K GVW, as well as the other BS that goes with the DMAX. Its now for sale and with only 50K on the odometer. Its a POS and any one who tests drives it, never takes a second look. I'm just glad I never had any input on the purchase, because he would just blame me.



IMHO if long drives are in your future get the CTD, if its city driving get the gasser.

 

[MA2LA]

I cover about 200 miles a day with most of that highway and will be making longer trips of up too 1000 miles at a shot so I know the cummins is the right choice , thats why i bought my truck that i have been using.

 

[AMatsonIII]

One thing to also think about the 4500 is the GVW of the truck. Here in NH DOT is really starting to go after the 1 tons and larger towing trailers. Not sure about the laws in your state but Federal DOT states if you tow a trailer of 10k and over and the combined weight is 26001 or larger you need a class A liscense. I am in the boat right now just picked up the 3500 C&C and now legally I can't tow my Dads Log trailer... . and the difference is 500 pounds compared to his 01 3500 Quad Cab, Guess I am gonna have to work on getting my Class A. Just some food for thought.

 

[HBarlow]

The Fed DOT rules apply if you are engaged in commercial activity. If you are pulling a trailer over 10k with a combined weight or rated weight in excess of 26k for private use, not business activity, a CDL is not required. Some states like my own state of TX now require a Class A operator license (not CDL A) for towing heavy private trailers such as RVs. If you tow your dad's logging trailer to cut firewood for your own consumption a CDL A is not required in most states. NH might require it for NH residents.