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Loosing prime revisited

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Ahhh...the virtues of BOMBing

I have a bombing question

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I finally got chance to look around for the fuel return line and it looks like everyone was correct, my loosing prime probably due to fuel return line. I could see a drop of fuel on the hose close to the fuel filter.

My question is what size fuel line do I need? I could not find the lines by starting at the engine so I followed the lines from the tank. There are two metal lines along the frame, one is a larger diameter which I assume is the intake and the smaller being the return. I could see where the metal line connected to a standard rubber line went along side the block behind the fuel filter and connected another metal line with a standard screw hose clamp.

The problem is it is extremely difficult to reach, I was just barely able to touch it from the engine compartment but still could not see it. It looks like I can replace it when I swap out my fuel filter but I prefer to have the correct size line before I start. Worst case I can buy several fuel lines to make sure I have the right one.

Anybody have the correct return fuel line? Any other words of wisdom?


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96 2500 extended cab full bed with a cap and running boards. 100% Amsoil with bypass oil filter. Everything else stock except bypassing the RWAL (rear wheel antiloc) operation so the truck will now stop when i hit the breaks without turning my hair white.
 
Mine took 18" of 5/16, buy good hose like Gates. I have replaced the return lines on 8 trucks and have found it easiest after removing the filter and moving the master cylinder out of the way to use wire cutters and just cut the upper clamp off and replace it. Saves a lot of cussing.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)
 
BadAndy- waaay off topic, but how did you bypass the RWAL? Mine has sucked since new-I hate it!

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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Semi-Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring & muffler stolen.
 
Hi Andy, how you been doing?
It's spec. is "J30R7" This will be the hose you need. You'll probibally have to look in a few parts places. It's not too easy to get, at least not here.
Eric
 
BadAndy, if I remember correctly the lines are fuel 3/8, return 5/16 if not someone will correct me and yes the lines are a pain to get to but be patient and you can get it done. Some have removed the fuel filter and moved the brake master cylindar over for better access. I was able to get to mine without doing either after figuring out just how I could get my arms in through everything and a box of bandaids for all of the cuts #ad

Good luck,
Paul

Rammin on beat me to the response, oh well.


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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar, tinted windows, 16x8 Eagle alloys series 1219, 285/75R16 Durango A/T's, stainless steel rocker panels and alluminum stirrup steps

[This message has been edited by Flatlander (edited 04-03-2001). ]
 
Just wanted to say thanks for all the info. I pre-bought the return fuel line and found the exact specification. last weekend i swapped out the fuel filter and replaced the return line and all is good again. the old line had crackes throughout the entire length, you could blow into one end while blocking the other end and there was little resistance. the air just went out all of the cracks. It was not easy but it wasn't impossible either, it took about 2 hours and i no longer loose prime.

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96 2500 extended cab full bed with a cap and running boards. 100% Amsoil with bypass oil filter. Everything else stock except bypassing the RWAL (rear wheel antiloc) operation so the truck will now stop when i hit the breaks without turning my hair white.
 
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