low power on 93

[ARhine]

I was reasearching and came accross this thread.

http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159702&highlight=bosch



My truck did this last year when towing on a long run in 100deg plus temps. When I pulled off the interstate the engine would try to idle at 300 rpm or just die unless I kept my foot on the accelterator.

 

[ARhine]

I am gonna try and get a valve adjustment done this weekend since I don't know when it was done last.



I talked to HTT about the turbo and they gave me a sideplay spec of no more than . 015, will measure that as well. I think my turbo is quite a bit over that.

 

[ARhine]

I tried to get a measurement on the sideplay today but had no luck, my calipers would not reach in far enough. Neither wheel is hitting yet though. There is a visble amount of movement and a little bit of a clunk when I wiggle it back and forth.

Thought about pulling the compressor housing but didn't know if the o-ring would seat up again when I put it back on?

 

[ARhine]

Just for grins rigged up a psi guage to theck the lift pump. Get around 4. 5psi at idle. Doing a few test runs at wot up hill never dropped below 3psi.



Good enough?



Also pulled the grille and powerwashed out the condensor/intercooler.

 

[Greenleaf]

You have hills in Kansas? The lift pump pressure sounds fine when @ WOT. The slow idle psi of 4. 5 sound low. I see 5. 5 to 6 psi with a new pump/filter on my 90. I'll bet you good there though.



You can pull the comp. housing easy enough. Be careful and don't use a pry bar and hammer if you know what I mean.



GL

 

[ARhine]

The part of ks I am in is all hills. Hard to find a piece of flat land. The highway south of my house has some hills that are just as hard of pulls as in the mountains, just that they don't go on for miles

 

[ARhine]

Is there a way to check the function of the advance in the pump?



Looking at the diagrams I have the advance piston is behind the KSB solenoid.

Could I just hook power to the KSB at idle and see if the tone of the engine changes?

Remove the KSB and see if the piston in the pump is free?

 

[bgilbert]

Is there a way to check the function of the advance in the pump? Could I just hook power to the KSB at idle and see if the tone of the engine changes?

Yeah I guess you could. KSB is cold start advance, not important IMO. I definately wouldn't pull it apart.



When you applied pressure to the charge air system, did you use soapy spray water on all connections, intake cover bolts, compressor elbow etc?

 

[ARhine]

I couldn't spray the compressor elbow because I have to remove it to pressure check. It is a new elbow with a new o-ring though. When I bought the truck the elbow was cracked. Also need to go where there is a larger air compressor than the little one I have. Couldn't keep up with the loss past the valves very well. But like I think I posted I did get it up to 15psi and it took it 30 seconds to leak down even with loosing some out the tailpipe and blowby.



To check with the turbo elbow still attached I would need to find piece of 4" ID hose, haven't found any locally yet. Might just buy a 45deg one from online for a future upgrade. http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=I&Product_Code=45L40&Category_Code=4DEG Then weld a cap on a piece of 4" exhuast tubing to make a plug. 4" plumbers couplers don't work, they are 4. 5" ID and way to big to fit the inlet.



As far as the KSB, looks like there is just an o-ring behind it to seal it to the pump body and two screws holding it on.



Andy

 

[ARhine]

Ok, how hard is an R&R on an injection pump? Thinking of sending it in for a rebuild. So far everything checks out on the truck otherwise. Starts easy, lift pump is ok, air system ok, full travel on throttle, fresh fuel filter, clean air filter, ect. . Still just doesn't have as much power as my 350 chevy truck when it comes to pulling the trailer. Can't give it any more fuel because the EGTs get to high quick.



Next question is where is a reputable place to send it. A guy I know that does lots of work on JD tractors uses a place called precision diesel in KY or somewhere back east.



Saw another thread with this place mentioned http://www.industrialinjection.com



Andy

 

[bgilbert]

1: I don't think you got the correct 'plumbers cap'. Here is a pic of the correct thing. 4" ID, works on our turbo's with 4" inlets. I don't know what supplying air to the turbo outlet elbow is good for. You need to supply air to the air inlet.



2: If I were to get a reman injection pump, I would get one from www.scheiddiesel.com.

 

[JRussell3176]

Ok, how hard is an R&R on an injection pump? Thinking of sending it in for a rebuild. So far everything checks out on the truck otherwise. Starts easy, lift pump is ok, air system ok, full travel on throttle, fresh fuel filter, clean air filter, ect. . Still just doesn't have as much power as my 350 chevy truck when it comes to pulling the trailer. Can't give it any more fuel because the EGTs get to high quick.



Next question is where is a reputable place to send it. A guy I know that does lots of work on JD tractors uses a place called precision diesel in KY or somewhere back east.



Saw another thread with this place mentioned http://www.industrialinjection.com



Andy

Have you checked to be sure the pin in the AFC (that rides on the fuel cone) isn't sticking? You can tell this by removing the AFC top and cycling the throttle while looking down in the hole.

 

[bgilbert]

Ok, how hard is an R&R on an injection pump?

It's not tough. If you do end up pulling it, just take your time. Pump wrench and T bar puller will be needed as the only special tools. Two of the intake horn bolts can be used to thread into the pump gear.

 

[ARhine]

Have you checked to be sure the pin in the AFC (that rides on the fuel cone) isn't sticking? You can tell this by removing the AFC top and cycling the throttle while looking down in the hole.

Yep, working fine.



Was driving it this weekend and playing around alittle.

Driving down a gravel road in 5th at 55 on a slight hill. Floor the throttle and the boost spools up to around 18psi. Truck accelerates slowly, doens't really matter if I give it half throttle or full throttle it accelerates the same, EGTs swing up to 1100 if you keep it on the floor for a while. Don't get any smoke out the tailpipe.

Only time I get smoke is if I hit the throttle to much before the turbo spins up under 1500rpm. Then I get a big black cloud.

Impossible to break the tires loose on gravel in any gear over 2nd.



Pulling 5K lbs my old 70 chevy 350 will easily out pull this thing. Acceleration, maintianing speed up hills, ect. And is is not geared that low either at 70 it turns 2600rpm. Just from what I read on this board the cummins should be making the chevy look bad, not the other way around.



Andy

 

[ARhine]

bgilbert:



The caps I can get around here are marked like that. 4" rubber cap for poly or cast pipe. They actually measure 4. 5" ID though and are way to big. That is the only store with that type of stuff within a 100 mile drive of me. If I get to a bigger city sometime in the next month that has a home depot or a lowes maybe I can find one. I think I already had the same brand though, wonder why they all measure different? Did you really have to suck yours down with the hose clamp? Looked to me I was never going to get it to tighten down far enough without buckling it and not getting a good seal.

found the website for the one in your pic there

http://www.fernco.com/QC.asp



What I did was remove the elbow and put a plug into the boost boot going to the intercooler, so basically I pressureized everything but the turbo.

 

[ARhine]

It's not tough. If you do end up pulling it, just take your time. Pump wrench and T bar puller will be needed as the only special tools. Two of the intake horn bolts can be used to thread into the pump gear.

By pump wrench are you referring to one of the S shaped wrenches to get to the bolts?



Andy

 

[bgilbert]

By pump wrench are you referring to one of the S shaped wrenches to get to the bolts?



Andy

Yep snap-on sp144 IIRC. Best $28 spent.

 

[JRussell3176]

$10 for the whole metric set at Harbor Freight.



I know they're crap, but for the amount of times I'll use it they work fine.

 

[backroad]

Wait just a minute... ... . I just checked on the Harbor Freight site and they seem to only list SAE, not Metric. Did you use the SAE set instead.

 

[bgilbert]

1/2" will work in place of 13mm. I've never used the cheapy set, but even with the snap-on pump wrench you gotta fight, hold the mirror, the light and your tongue just right to work on the hidden nut below the pump. I figure with an S cheapy 1/2" wrench it would be just as bad or worse. Once you get the nut off and pump off, then the threads on the stud will be clean and you can simply spin the nut on the stud with your fingers on reinstall and it won't be tough. But if you get a stubborn dirty threaded stud, you'll be there for awhile.