Lowering Kit for Rear

[Archive]

How do I lower the rear of my new 2001 long bed 4x4? Is there a kit for it ?

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98 12V SLT 2500 4X2 AUTO,3. 54 limt slip rear, QC SB Driftwood W/color match Topper, Full alum Boards,Delux OE mud guards, Bugflector,SS Wheel well trim,Reese 15K slider hitch,30 ft. Coachman 5er,TST #8 plate TC lockup Sw,Trans-go kit,Heavy duty TC. Isproo Boost,EGT,and Trans Temp Guages,Uniden CB.

 

[Archive]

I read on another thread that some parts stores sell aftermarket axle spacers that are shorter than stock(need to get u-bolts also). I priced 2-wheel drive spacers and bolts from Dodge and it eas somewhere around $170 for the parts. Two wheel spacers are 80mm and the 4-wheel spacers are 120mm. I took some 3" sq tube and modified it lower the rear on my truck.

 

[Archive]

Not to totally divert this discussion, but has anyone "leveled" a 4x2 2500? I imagine it could easily be done w/ shackles... IF SOMEONE MADE SOME FOR THE Heavier Rams? Additionally, changing/fabricating spacer could also be a option? In theory the same could be done for the 4x4 above is why I tagged my question along.

Max

 

[Archive]

Max, I went to a truck shop and they made me a new set of U-bolts then I yanked out my overload springs and the 1" spacers between my springs and axle (lowered it 1"). Made a noticeable difference in handling and appearance, more than I expected with a 1" drop. If you go without overloads or spacers you need 1/2" x3" x8. 5" U-bolts however the holes in your clamp plate are big enough that if I did it again I'd get 9/16" x3" x8. 5" to be a bit beefier. Only cost $4 apiece.

I've also seen where you can get shackles where you can drop the rear 1" or 2" (adjustable) for around $80, I think it was MacPerson springs or something like that on the 'net.

Vaughn
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<font color = blue> "BLUE THUNDER": </font color = blue>'01 2500 QC Shortbed 2wd, Patriot Blue over Driftwood, HO 24v Cummins & 6-speed, 3. 54LSD, Cab & Fog lamps, Camper & Tow Pkg.
<font color = blue> BOMBings: </font color = blue> K&N RE0880 (NOT ANYMORE ), RV injectors, straightpiped exh. , debadged body, AutoMeter Sport Comp gauges, amber turn signals, 55w halogen rev. lights, braided stainless fuel lines, removed overloads & dropped rear 1"
16,200 miles (9/04/00)

 

[Archive]

I lowered the back end of my 3500 right after buying it new. The local spring shop did it for $130. They took out the 4x4 spacers and made new ones(1 3/4") out of some scrap metal. Also made new u-bolts. I then had to replace the shocks with 2 wheel drive model.
The whole thing including shocks cost $240.
My truck sets level empty and squats about 2" with my 5th whl. (2400 lb. pin wt. ) hooked on.
Don't forget to readjust the headlights as you will be lighting up the tree tops.
It did not change the ride or handling but it makes my 5th whl. ride level when towing so I don't have to unhook it every night when traveling.
Good luck.

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1998. 5;24v,3500,4x4,SLT,QC,5 spd,3. 54LS,4whl. ABS,all options,18k lb. Reese 5th whl. hitch,full length diam. plate running boards,eyebrows & hood dam,bed edges,bedhooks;gray Rhinohide liner,Pac Brake,britebox,"deepdish"mats,matching shell,Sandstone & camel leather,stainless fender eyebrows,exhaust turndown pipe;brush guard,SPA digital boost/egt(pre-turbo) gauge,pillar mount. Lowered rear end 4".
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1980,W200 Powerwagon,4 door crewcab,360 gas,747 auto,68k orig. miles,4 coats of Zeebart.
The Powerwagon
My Boat

 

[Archive]

Another thing to keep in mind is the angle of the rear brake proportionig valve arm. I cut the link and adjusted it back to the factory angle after lowering the rear of the truck 1 and 3/4".