making oil

[K5IP]

Truck: very pampered, unmodified 03 with 77,000 light towing miles. (bass boat).

At least twice in the last 10,000 I have noted an oil level increase, the last of which measured . 72" above the reference in only 2000 miles. (quite a bit).

A local deisel mechanic did a contribution test and all cylinders are balanced. The engine runs great, starts quickly, gets great mileage, and shows no sign of unusual smoke, The mechanic suggested I get another data point on oil levels before throwing injectors at it.

I then changed oil, gave it a good dose of staydane fuel treatment and have not seen an oill level change in the last 700 miles.

I just finished an overflow /individual cylinder cap off test. Individual injectors have a return flow between 15 and 18 ML/min. I think 10 to 40 is the spec.

Now the questiions:

Does the overflow test really test all of the leaking injector failure modes?

Do these injectors fail intermittantly?

Having noticed an improvement with fuel additives, does this eleminate a leaking CP3?

Thanks Guys,

Rog

P. S. I would like to head for Alaska but I am not sure if I can trust this critter. (I am used to a 95 that did not seem so cantancerous)

 

[cerberusiam]

Should nat be intermittent with making oil. If they crack where fuel can get into the oil they stay cracked.



Probably your best bet is get an oil analysis done to make sure you know what is going on.

 

[Dieselnerd]

My CP3 was replaced under warranty for the same issue. Seemed to help for a while but now I think it had nothing to do with it. The CP3 was leaking externally though and it needed replacement.



Since then, my oil level is sometimes at or slightly below the full mark and other times about as high above the full mark as yours is.



What I found is when the oil level is high and I pull the oil filter, it is less than half full. When the oil level is normal and I pull the filter, the filter is full.



This was common on my 2nd gen (and was in the TDR as normal) but my 2005 filter was usually full when I changed oil. After about 60K it started being full sometimes and partially empty at others.

 

[K5IP]

CERBERUSAIM,

As you are a frequient poster I value your comments.

I understand that cracked parts do not mend, but since that does not seem to be the case here, is there another failure mode I should be looking for?

I plan to make a run up a long hard grade tomorrow and then look at exhaust temps with my IR thermometer to try to see if one cylinder might be running hotter than the others.

Good idea about the oil analysis, but since it has been only 700 miles since the last change, with no oil level increase, I am not sure what would be gained.

Thanks,

Rog

 

[Wingate]

Probably your best bet is get an oil analysis done to make sure you know what is going on.

X2. . Pull an oil sample, it will tell much more info than seeing variations on the dipstick. .

Also, do you do your own maintenance? Quickie Lube? Dealership?. .

 

[TCDiesel]

There are 2 shaft seals Inner / outer ,the inner is under pressure the outer is not. Thier is a weep hole that should leak the fuel between the pump manifold and face plate,It is very small and generally gets plugged, so the fuel leaks into the crank case. . check daily for some time it will rise slowly,but if un-checked and complete failure it will fill the crank case in minutes.

 

[cerberusiam]

Like Todd pointed out, the CP-3 is a high possibility for issues. Just have to watch it and see what happens then get an oil sampling to see if it is fuel.

 

[K5IP]

Ron,

Good info, but in my case, when the level is high I check it every morning before I staart it and it sits in the same spot in my garage every day. In my case, once I noticed the level to be high, it was very repeatable.

Thanks,

Rog

 

[K5IP]

Wingate,

The first 66,000 miles were maintained by the dealership. I now do my own oil changes.

The oil sample will be next, but I need more than 700 miles on the change and right now it is not making oil, due I think to the big gulp of staydine treatment.

Thanks,

Rog

 

[K5IP]

Todd,

Is there any way to see is it is leaking without pulling the pump. I. E. Can the gear be pulled to look for the leak? If I pull it, will I see the leak it or must it be torn down

If it needs to be torn down, do you accept work shipments through UPS? You seem to be the pump expert around here.

If worst comes to worst, and I need injectors, I know you advocate new injectors, are new ones available?

Thanks,

Rog

 

[cerberusiam]

If your checking it cold then over full is normal. To get a consistent reading checking it 5-10 minutes after being up to full operating temp and shutdown is more consistent.



Mine will always show over full after sitting over night. Always show about 1/8 inch below the full mark at 5-10 minutes after shutting off at full operating temp.



There is over 2 quarts of oil held up in the head and oiling system that needs to mostly drain back to get a consistent reading. If you put 3 galloons of oil in and the filter is full you should slightly over the full mark. If the filter partially drains it will be higher.

 

[TCDiesel]

Todd,

Is there any way to see is it is leaking without pulling the pump. I. E. Can the gear be pulled to look for the leak? If I pull it, will I see the leak it or must it be torn down

If it needs to be torn down, do you accept work shipments through UPS? You seem to be the pump expert around here.

If worst comes to worst, and I need injectors, I know you advocate new injectors, are new ones available?

Thanks,

Rog

To be absolutely sure the pump needs to be removed and disassembled. Yes Bosch Genuine NEW is available.

 

[K5IP]

Thanks for all the input guys,

As promised, I made a heat run up the local mountain and then shot the exhaust manifold bolts at each cylinder with an IR thermometer.

Results:

#1=235 deg F

#2=227 deg F

#3=239 deg F

#4=330 deg F

#5=308 deg F

#6=228 deg F

Number 4 and 5 are obviously running hotter, (#4 is 45% hotter than #6. )

Does anyone have similar data?

Opinions?

Remember, Alaska is still on my list if I can trust this thing.

Rog

 

[Wingate]

unfortunately those temp readings wont mean alot without a baseline set of numbers taken with an IR gun on your truck after running the same run without suspected issues. .

Temperature variations in the manifold are normal for most every internal combustion engine... Its a much more useful number when you have some history of where the port temps have ran over some time. .

Between which ports does the turbo attach on the 03 models??

Now is the perfect time to pull a sample... jsut not by the methods you would normally use. .

There is a small vacuum pump sold at your local Cat dealer(about $20. 00) that allows you to attach your oil sample bottle to it and the sample bottle comes with a long piece of tubing to run down the dipstick tube and pull oil out of the pan...

One can also install a valve in the top of the oil filter base thru the 1/8" plug and get the sample with the enigne idling...

If there is excess fuel present, it will show up. .

 

[K5IP]

Wingate,

Thanks, I understand that a baseline would be nice and that was why I was asking if anyone had similar data.

Your question about the turbo was a good one. It attaches right at the #4 and #5 exhaust ports, Since these are the suspect cylinders this becomes a very interesting observation.

I am trying to find someone with a truck like mine for a similar test.

If, indeed, unusual exhaust temps can be used to find a leaking injector, this would be routine troubleshooting procedure but this does not seem to be the case, so perhaps I am going down the wrong road here.

Will an oil sample be worthwhile with only 700 miles since the last change, Right now it does not appear to be "making oil".

Thanks,

Rog

 

[TCDiesel]

I would wait on the sample. . I would check oil level Daily.

 

[K5IP]

Thanks Todd,

I do check it daily.

I will get a sample.

I know that you would say just change all the injectors and get it over with, but since I am retired and have more time than money, I might consider swaping the injectors from #4 and #5 to holes #1 and #2 and see if the hot spot follows.

It's a day of work for me, and even if the hot spoty changres, I am not sure if I would only change two of them. It would, I believe confirm that it is injectors, not the cp-3 that is the problem.

Rog

 

[amsoilman]

I just did an oil sample on a customers truck, a 2003 GMC Duramax, and it came back with 10 PERCENT Fuel Dilution! Oil Viscosity was at a 20 grade level! NOT GOOD!

I would definitely get an oil sample done, which will tell you exactly what is going on.

 

[TCDiesel]

Thanks Todd,

I do check it daily.

I will get a sample.

I know that you would say just change all the injectors and get it over with, but since I am retired and have more time than money, I might consider swaping the injectors from #4 and #5 to holes #1 and #2 and see if the hot spot follows.

It's a day of work for me, and even if the hot spoty changres, I am not sure if I would only change two of them. It would, I believe confirm that it is injectors, not the cp-3 that is the problem.

Rog

Do NOT change Injectors Get sample 1st. . I doubt your oil problem is related to Injectors at this time. The sample will tell what to do.

 

[TCDiesel]

I just did an oil sample on a customers truck, a 2003 GMC Duramax, and it came back with 10 PERCENT Fuel Dilution! Oil Viscosity was at a 20 grade level! NOT GOOD!



I would definitely get an oil sample done, which will tell you exactly what is going on.

That LB7 is a leaker,I would sell the truck before doing Injectors in any LB7 with miles on it 150K+,With that % his mains and rods :{