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Mallory 4140M

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Fuel gauge not work

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I am in the process of upgrading my fuel system by adding a Mallory 4140M. Now the question is, or rather questions are.....



1) Where and how are you guys mounting this pump on your installs?

2) How are you wiring the pump into the system?

3) I assume most are removing the stock lift pump, if so how are you routing the fuel lines to the VP44?



Any input especially pictures would be a great help! If you want to email me pics direct my address is: -- email address removed --.



Thanks,



Doug S.
 
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Here ya go.....

Jetpilot, I did my Mallory 4140M installation a little different than most.....



1) As I have a Transfer Flow 54 gal. replacement fuel tank (which comes with approx. 14" long supply and return hose extensions that connect between the fuel sender and the short, formed OE plastic lines on the frame), I elected to mount my Mallory 4140M to the outside of the frame (thanks to Bill Kondolay's suggestion :) ). It is located only an inch or two forward of the centerline of the fuel sender and is protected by a nearby body mount ear welded to the frame rail. Additionally, I used a 1/4" thick piece of urethane between the pump and frame to isolate noise transmission. I drilled and tapped the frame and utilized four 5/16" stainless steel Allen head bolts that I drilled for safety wire to mount my pump... the safety wire eliminates the possibility of having the very low torqued bolts from loosening (if safety wired properly).



2) I removed the supplied Transfer Flow extension hose (supply side) and reused the quick disconnect connector at the fuel sender end, attaching it to the -06 AN Aeroquip AQP hose with an all-stainless steel worm clamp (all other "end" fittings were Aeroquip -06 AN AQP fittings). The other end is attached to a System 1 billet aluminum filter (used as a prefilter... it has a high flow, pleated stainless steel, 30 micron "screen" type filtering media). Mallory requires a prefilter with a maximum filtering media of 40 microns. A very short -06 AN AQP hose connects the output of the fuel prefilter to the Mallory 4140M. The System 1 prefilter was attached to the frame with a trick, high strength black composite plastic clamp used to mount a D-cell Mag-Lite flashlight. . it fit perfectly (it always pays to keep those trick little gadgets you never use for their intended purpose). :D



3) The output side of the Mallory 4140M utilizes a single length of -06 AN Aeroquip AQP hose that terminates at the inlet side of the OE fuel filter.



4) IMPORTANT NOTE: If the AQP hose (braided stainless steel jacket) is utilized throughout, ANYTHING it comes in contact with MUST be protected! If not, you will quickly see how adjacent material removal can ruin ones day!



5) I removed the OE lift pump and the lift pump mounting bracket... that is, until I saw it doubles as a block off plate for the hole in the block which is utilized by the 12v mechanical fuel pump (PS: there is a gasket between the lift pump mounting bracket and the block). I decided to modify the OE lift pump bracket, removing the "top" mounting platform (and of course, detailing it :D ).



6) I purchased a Painless Wiring Electric Fuel Pump Relay kit (purchased from Jeg's), mounting this in a project box (purchased from Radio Shack), in turn, mounting this to a nearby bed cross brace using neoprene to isolate the box to prevent any kind of noise. The project box is further protected by the back of the cab... which extends well below the level of the underside of the bed box. The supplied P. W. 30 amp circuit breaker was replaced with an 8 amp counterpart (purchased from NAPA), thereby eliminating the supplied 7. 5 amp slow blow fuse from Mallory (my entire plan was detailed to a Mallory Tech. who, after knowing this was a dedicated circuit, approved it). Ten gauge wire supplies power to the circuit breaker (mounted near the PDC) and the P. W. relay.



7) The OE lift pump connector (pump half) plus wiring was extended, spiral wound and bound for interference protection and protected with split loom, terminating inside the project box (this is the trigger for the relay).



Also noteworthy: all connections were soldered and double shrink wrap protected. Split loom protects all wiring in the system. Fault diagnostics due to shoddy workmanship is not something I like to be a part of. To finish off the project, I blew out the length of "unused" OE steel line, capping both ends with appropriately sized plastic caps. The extremely small amount of remaining fuel within the line should not present a problem should I (or someone else) want to reuse this line.



Jetpilot, I'll bet this is more information than you really wanted to know. :D
 
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what do you mean???

Thank you for the detailed process that you did, it will help me when I prepair to do mine. I do have a question though.



What is ment by protecting everything it comes in contact with? I plan to use the satinless steel lines also, love the look. :D



4) IMPORTANT NOTE: If the AQP hose (braided stainless steel jacket) is utilized throughout, ANYTHING it comes in contact with MUST be protected! If not, you will quickly see how adjacent material removal can ruin ones day!



Thanks,

AJB
 
Hmmmmmm. I wonder!

John,



You said in the post above and I quote "5) I removed the OE lift pump and the lift pump mounting bracket... that is, until I saw it doubles as a block off plate for the hole in the block which is utilized by the 12v mechanical fuel pump (PS: there is a gasket between the lift pump mounting bracket and the block). "



My question is, does this mean that we could mount a manual lift pump from a 12 valve truck on our 24 valvers and do away with the electric lift pumps altogether? Would the 12 valve maual pumps supply enough diesel?



The reason I ask is that I have never heard of the 12 valve manual pumps going out. Would this be a possible solution? Has anyone tried this?:confused: :D
 
TxDieselKid, the stainless steel protective jacket of the AQP hose or any steel jacketed hose (by any manufacturer) is extremely brutal to anything it comes in contact with. It will easily grind through almost anything. That said, it's prudent to cover areas of the AQP hose with split loom or some other form of protective shielding (appropriately sized "rubber" hose works well... just slit the length of it) in areas where it comes in contact with anything else. This can be done in a very stealth manor if some forethought is rendered. With all the braided stainless steel hose I have on my Ram, not one person has ever seen the protective measures I have taken the time to incorporate... just how I like it. :D



rashwor, I would venture to guess that the cam used in the 24v engines does not have the lobe required to drive the 12v mechanical fuel pump, although this is just speculation on my part. I had thought of the 12v mechanical fuel pump idea myself but figured Cummins would have omitted the required lobe on a cam destined to be installed in a 24v engine (although I was too lazy or busy to fully explore this).
 
thanks...

Thanks, for answering my question. I knew these were hard on other compoints, as evident from my buddies '71 chevy 350, but did not know how to prevent. Thanks for the tip:D



AJB



PS- Isn't it your truck on the cover of the DTT catalog?
 
rashwor,



It's already been looked into. The lobe on the camshaft to drive a mechanical pump does not exist on the 24v cam. I would have been there a long time ago if it did.



-Mike
 
Re: thanks...

Originally posted by TxDieselKid

Thanks, for answering my question



You're welcome TXDieselKid :)





PS- Isn't it your truck on the cover of the DTT catalog?



Yes it is :D..... and I'm honored that Bill, Stefan and Shanti asked me to do that for them. :) I would also like to thank Rob Hanson for taking the numerous pics required (at a moments notice no less... it was late January and as you know, it rains all the time up here), and last but certainly not least, Kenorn Yiem, DTT's contract web designer for tricking out the pic with motion and all the special touches.
 
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