Max. safe RPM?

[HoleshotHolset]

I'm noticing that a lot of people are purchasing or already have some sort of governor spring kit to increase the usuable RPM to up and usually over the 3k RPM mark.



What I am wondering is how far can we go before we run into problems?

What are people doing about their auto transmission shift points (I'm assuming DTT can incorporate this into their VB and TC combos... )?

and... last but not least... . where are the stock 12-valve trucks with auto trans and 4. 10:1 gears supposed to shift at full throttle?

My truck shifts at 2500rpm, and a lot of sputtering occurs at that rpm as well... . it sounds like the sputtering I get at low rpms when the engine is cold. I'm hoping my truck is normal... if not I'm gonna have to change that. Even in OD with TCC engaged the truck seems like it is cutting the fuel out at 2500rpm which is right around 85mph.



Got TCC shudder? I do... big time!



Matt

 

[SLang]

From DodgeRam.org it lists the following.

• Destructive torsional harmonic resonance occurs at 4100 RPM
  
• Crank and rods fail at 5400 RPM (if you make it through 4100 RPM)
  

Piers said that you can run about 34-3500 RPM before needing to replace valve springs. Give him a call @ (604)853-9396 he can answer most of your questions. He was more than happy to explian the workings and didn't even push for a sale. I liked is honesty and candor so much I ordered a kit on the spot.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Holeshot,



I have Piers's governer spring kit too. I really don't like or need to wind up the engine past 2500 rpm's. With the spring kit, your engine won't start to cut back on fuel @ 2300-2400 rpms. It still pulls like its at 2000 rpms! This is whats great about the new springs. From idle to redline is improved with the new springs. Your idle will be smoother then

stock . If you can get your springs adjusted right the first time, you'll be lucky. Most of us have went back into the pump and have had to tighten or back off the spring retainers. Once you do it a couple times its easy.





While I'm here:

Our OEM vibration Damper is rated for 2650rpms & below. I have not heard of one letting go yet.



I'm checking with different aftermarket companies to see if I can find a good high performance, possibly viscous damper. On the big Cummins's engines, it's a must the damper be replaced at about 350K miles.



Maybe the Diamond 'B' 370 hp Series engine damper is interchangeable with ours? It probably would do a better job than our OEM 215 hp dampers.



We are are asking our OEM dampers to do more than what they were designed for. I have not heard of any crank, bearing or flywheel problems associated with added stress and vibrations from a bombed engine thankfully.



I'll keep looking.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Okay, so long as I keep 'er under 4100rpm... I should be all set. It is odd that the reciprocating assy. is rated to 5400rpm.....

What I'd like to see is a solid 3500rpm under full throttle when it goes through the gears.



If I upgrade the valve springs... . would I be all set for an exhaust brake as well?



Now onto fueling concerns... . which plate/delivery valves/injectors to buy... there are a LOT of choices.



Thanks a million!

Matt

 

[Piers]

Matt if your truck is sputtering @2500 & more so when cold, it sounds like your pump timing is out. If you're going to want to have it pull strong thru to 3500rpm you'll need to advance the timing to 15. 5-16. 5 degrees.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I'm pretty sure that injection pump timing is way over my head as far as me being able to do it correctly. I guess its time to hit the books or leave it up to someone who knows.

Will advancing my timing affect EGT's?

The sputter I experience is right around 1200rpm and it happens when it is cold. The other sputter is at 2500rpm just before the transmission shifts gears.



So far, I'm going to need: governor spring kit, properly advanced timing.



Sounds good to me!

Thanks a million!

Matt

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Matt,



Ted Jennety's shop is in Waterbury, Ct. He can set your timing. Blue Chip Diesel is in New Hampshire. You could talk to them. They both are good places. Click on 'Links" at the top of the page then "Engine Performance" for more info.



Advancing the timing will...



Decrease exhaust temperature

Increase cylinder temperatures/pressures

Increase fuel economy (yes, economy is better)

Increase your output of NOx (a pollutant)

Decrease your output of Hydrocarbons (a pollutant)

Increase the amount of black smoke at peak torque



The low speed roughness you have at around 1200 rpm's is Characteristic of a '94-'95 injection pump. Bosch injection pump shops can make it better through calibration, but not have been able to eliminate it completely. I have advanced my timing, installed high flow delivery valves and have a Governor spring kit installed. I STILL have the stumble off idle. Its been cleaned up by about 50% over stock. Its really only audible. It really does not effect the performance of the truck.



BTW,



Your 160 HP engine came from the factory with the very SMALL harmonic balancer. Putting a 215HP damper on is a direct replacement. You don't even need a puller. The 215 is much larger than your OEM 160 damper. You'll just have to adjust your speed sensor. 2 bolts w/ 2 elonglated holes. Simple. Its cheap insurance. Its Cummins Part # 3924435. About 200 bananas. It will absorb the pulses and vibrations better than the small one will.



Plan on coming to the next TDR meet. You can get lots of ideas and tips from the guys that have bombed their trucks.



More info: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21228



Last Meet: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20439

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I actually met Ted Jannetty and his head mechanic Frank up at New England Dragway when I was racing my buddy's Y2K CTD dually. Both those guys were very helpful and told me what it takes to go 12's.

I'd like to get to the point where I can do my own adjustments, but pump timing is too critical a setting for a newbie like me for right now.

My truck is going to have to pass a smoke opacity test next year... so bombing it may be difficult when the amount of smoke emitted is important.

I'm trying to save up for a snowplow right now, so the cheap mods are where I'm looking into.

The number of things I can do to this engine seem limitless... . I'm trying to slowly sift through the information to get a good game plan to start the process of modifying the 'ole B5. 9L



How can you go wrong with 150lbs of forged crankshaft?



Matt

 

[Cooker]

Piers developed a "Valet" switch that will help you control your pollutants at the flick of a switch. I think on his old truck the numbers were something like 409hp with the switch off and ~180hp with the switch on. It would be real easy to flick the switch to pass the emissions test and when you drive away flcik to again to the off position and smoke the testers out of there



Just a thought,

Ryan

 

[RJ2]

Are there any threads on the valet switch? Also while on the subject of threads ,how do you transfer threads to your posts? Thanks RJ

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I'd be VERY interested in hearing more about this 'valet' switch... .





Matt

 

[Todd G]

The valet switch would be cool, but I don't think you'll need it to pass the emmissions test. Even with my plate and AFC housing full forward and with 370 injectors, I passed easily. They hardly put any load on the rollers at all. Certainly not enough to make smoke. Here we went to a new test where they just floor it in neutral. No load=No smoke.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

The valet switch would be very nice if you perhaps absolutely HAD to let one of your buddies use your truck to move that new TV he just bought becuase it wouldn't fit in his sedan.

I can watch gauges and back off if things get too hot, other people are oblivious.

Good call on the no-load-no-smoke thing.

Here in MA, they are doing the floor it in neutral thing starting next year. All they'll get is blue smoke out of my truck!! haha



Matt

 

[Cooker]

Check it out here:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5416&highlight=valet+switch



Some of the posts appear out of order even though the date's and times are correct



Anyway the post should have all the info you need.



-Ryan

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I gotta get one!

Thanks so much for posting the URL!



Matt

 

[RJ2]

Is there any threads on the kill switch?

 

[RJ2]

kill switch

Were is the best place to run a kill switch on a 97 3500?