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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Media blasting my frame.

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I am ready to start blasting my frame. It is primarily light to medium rust with a few scaly areas. I have been reading and searching but really have found a clear answer as to what to use. A lot of the other sites I have read all talk about blasting bodies/ sheetmetal. A bit different than doing a frame. I am going to rent a tow-able compressor and pressure pot so I get this done in one pass. I have a small gravity speed blaster that works okay if you are shooting horizontal or downwards. I used some black beauty that worked well with the speed blaster. With the weather changing so quickly from day to day I want to roll it out, blast it in a day and put it back inside so it can be primed right off.



To those that have done this what do you suggest? I don't need to completely strip the frame down to bare metal entirely. A fair amount can be dusted over to remove just the surface rust {spots) so this should go pretty quick. Capturing and recycling the media is going to be tough as I will be out in the drive way. I have thought about building a booth inside with wood 1x3 strapping and plastic. I did this once upon a time to strip the bottom paint off a 38 ft boat and it worked pretty good. If I did that I could likely recycle/ reuse but building a booth takes time and some additional money.
 
Have used Quikkrete Medium sand (I believe that is the name) quite a bit. Basically silica sand. Uniform size particles. Can get at the lumber yard, maybe even the big box stores. But of course not something you want to use unprotected. It's cheap. Probably not worth the time it would take to recycle it.
 
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How big is the hose? What size nozzle? 4ooo grit sand works pretty good, aggressive enough to take paint and light rust off without leaving an aggressive profile. Black beauty is much more aggressive, works well for heavy scale but is easy to chew metal quickly if its thin.
 
I going to go have a look at the blaster tomorrow. They are next door to where I work. I'll report back on what I find.
 
I went with a rented 150cfm compressor and a 150lb blaster. Used a 3/16 nozzle and 30-60 grit iron silica. I did it outside. It took 14 50 lb bags. It went pretty quick until I had to get on the ground to do the underside of the frame, axles etc. That wasted a lot of the media as I could not see as well, the hood was fogging up and of course rolling around on the ground. The end result was fantastic! I've started priming with the second coat on tonight. Should be painted by Sunday.
Rental and media cost me $308. They even did me a favor and delivered ($30) it because the truck I would use to fetch it all is in a 100 pieces in my shop.
 
$308 and you had to do the work! I loaded the rolling chassis of the '54 Ford I am restoring onto a trailer and was charged $250 to have it sandblasted while I watched. I even was able to inspect it and they went over places that had been missed. The body will be next.
 
I'm using the middle grade Chassis black primer and paint system from Eastwood for the frame. I used something called rust encapsulator on the axles and front suspension to try and put a heavier duty coating on them. They were also blasted. Everything gets the chassis black paint. I should be done painting by the end of the weekend. Then i can finally start to reassemble it. The cab is pretty close to done. I just have to figure out what to do about the engine. The block has rusted and shed virtually all the paint. The dilemma is how to deal with the rust. I'm thinking of removing the bolt-ons and blasting with a small hand held rig called a speed blaster but I don't relish the idea of spraying it with the media either. Generous use of duct tape and masking will be required. Seems pretty foolish to do all this work and put a rusty motor back in.
 
Oh sure, rub it in...

Sorry, that came out wrong. I'm just amazed that a DIY turns out more expensive than having it done. Looking good so far.

If the engine just has surface rust there is a product called Extend made by loctite that might work. Wire brush the loose stuff off, then spray a couple coats. After it turns the rust black and cures for a day or so you can paint it.
 
No worries. I took no offense. I was just razzing ya...:-laf
I'll look into that stuff. I was checking out vht engine paints. They are good to 550F they say. I just need to deal with the rust first. Thanks for the tip.
 
I forgot to add that I get it at Lowe's. It comes in a blue spray can, but it isn't by the paint for some reason. Same general section though.
 
Oh sure, rub it in...
Don't have a trailer to move it nor a truck to pull with. Things are a bit cheaper in TX vs mid coast Maine I'm sure. I don't mind doing the work either.
Just finished priming.
http://s139.photobucket.com/user/sg5054/slideshow/soundproofing

Just updated the pictures.
Engine/ transmission went in 2 weeks ago. Cab went on Sunday. I spent more time rigging the crane and balancing the cab then it took to actually set the cab in place. I'll be able to wire and rig the front clip before I set it in place.

I chipped the rust off the block. In some spots, worst was the drivers side it was 1/16 - 1/8 thick. Big heavy flakes. Need a hammer, chisel and a screwdriver to chip it off. Heavy coats of zinc phosphate primer (4) and cummins beige to pretty it up.

I recycled the ss 3/8 fuel supply line from the tank forward and used it for the return. Supply line is the FASS DDRP parker push lock line supplied in the relocation kit.

All new cupro nickel brake lines. New upgraded rear wheel cylinders. new shocks. New transmission filter. Pulled the oil pan and blasted it. 2 heavy coats Eastwood rust encapsulator and 2 coats chassis paint. All bolts throughout reinstalled with Neversieze. New PS pump and resealed vaccum pump. New oil line to vac pump. New fluiddamper. New South Bend clutch and flywheel.
 
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