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Mobil 1 oil OK or what??

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1/8 npt fitting.

amsoilman said:
For every 20 degrees above 250 the oxidation rate doubles. Most Petroleum oils are at their lubrication temperature limit at 300 degrees F. The synthetics in group 4 or 5 generally are good to 350 to 400

On that note do you think turbo's can be shut off 50-100 degrees hotter using Synthetics?



I think this gentleman has studied the fluid flow characteristics well and the information is classical fluid flow but that is not all there is to lubrication.
I agree and while talking about this article on another site with a fella I know who does wear testing for a big OEM I learned some more interesting information I didn't know, he feels the Docs theory about start up wear is not valid. I won't say his name or the OEM but will say:

  • He agrees Synthetics are far better but you don't need a full load for protection
  • For his personal cars he runs a 20% mix and claims testing proves its good for 75% wear protection a syn offers
  • He does this for the first 1/2 of the vehicles expected life



He does this because his reasoning is. . why spend the extra to preserve the engine to where it is pristine when the rest of the vehicle is worn out.



I suppose that makes sense but you have to answer what your long term plans are. Synthetics are probably a good idea for those increasing the power levels and those that want looong mileage over 200K. But if you don't bomb and trade up at 150K I don't see the value.



Our discussion was based on gas engines where he would do the 20% mix for the first 50K then go back. Why have a worn out car at 100K and a perfect motor. It kinda made me think for a moment. . whoa, you mean 100K is their life expectancy anyway! Glade I'm driving a DC product- opps I just narrowed it down to the other 2.
 
Matt400 said:
Synthetics are probably a good idea for those increasing the power levels and those that want looong mileage over 200K.



This is a very interesting point, and almost one that made me consider going synthetic. But I'm just not convinced that running synthetic will pay back in lifespan gains.



I used to run synthetic on my gasser when I lived in NY, and I did that for only 1 reason: cold start flow. Other than that, I figure a conventional oil lubricates just as well as a synthetic once the engine (and oil) is up to operating temperature. Maybe I'm way off base, but it helps me sleep at night (and it keeps my wallet filled with more cash!).



By no means am I an oil expert.



-Ryan :)
 
rbattelle said:
I figure a conventional oil lubricates just as well as a synthetic once the engine (and oil) is up to operating temperature.
I agree if you are talking about taking the engine to a specific mileage (thats not too high) before trade off. Otherwise Syn does show better lubrication with less wear.
 
What I came away with was to plug in the engine heater more than I do. I use to wait 'till temps got down to freezing... but that translates into really thick oil... not good.

Mike
 
from Matt400:
how about this article or is it a book?



I finally got the chance to read the whole article. Very interesting... It makes me re-think my choices of what oil to use. I am defenitely staying with a synthetic. But, I feel cold temp start-up protection is very important where I live. I believe I'll get better start-up protection with a lighter oil, like a 5-30. But, I wonder about the long term effects of using a lighter oil, wondering if there could be some detrimental effects on the motor. I bought this truck with the intention of keeping it for at least 10 yrs. , possibly 15. Right now, I'll try the Mobil 1, as it's all ready in.
 
J Shocik said:
I bought this truck with the intention of keeping it for at least 10 yrs. , possibly 15. Right now, I'll try the Mobil 1, as it's all ready in.
I don't think you can go wrong with that.
 
Does anyone happen to know (or know of a source) what the lubricity of fresh-from-the-bottle dinosaur oil and synthetic oil are?



-Ryan
 
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