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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) more fuel and more boost = less power?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Dyno Results

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission rear brakes

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Today I slid the plate in my truck forward (#10). I slid it a lot forward. When I first got in there, I just slid it forward as much as I could in the stock slots on the torque plate. That didn't seem like much at all (. 020 maybe), so I slotted the holes and moved the plate maybe 1/4 inch up. I also disconnected the wastegate line, so it would make max boost all the time (I didn't want it to be hot on the first run, I can always turn the boost down later).



The truck dumps a TON of smoke now before boost (like people behind you swerve into oncoming traffic smoke), but once it spools up it doesn't smoke all that bad. It spools up noticeably quicker with all that fuel. Boost maxes around 38 pounds. With no load, the EGTS get to 1150 or so by the end of 4th gear.



It also now has a new sound when I let off at WOT. Something under the hood sounds like a fluttering blow off valve (turbo gas guys will know this sound). It sounds cool, but it's a new sound, and I know I don't have a blow off valve:)



My question is, why doesn't my truck seem ANY faster? Hell, it might even be slower. I have more fuel, more boost, and about the same EGTs, although I seem to have less power. A buddy of mine just put some chip in his Duramax last night. It peels out on the freeway as he's pulling past me. This is unacceptable.
 
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Is your clutch slipping?



Do you have proper fuel pressure?



How old is the fuel filter?



A #10 that has been modified as you state should give you EGT's way past 1150. It sounds like you're not getting the fuel.



The governor spring kit is a good investment too.



Good luck,

Mike
 
Power and boost

With that #10 plate all the way forward, you should be seeing really HOT EGTS!! I would check the fuel pressure and the gov lever adj. From what i have read on the TDR the 94 and 95 ctds like the 4kgsk for more performance. Then the list of goodies goes on from there!!Oo.
 
That new sounds under the hood is a bad one. Do not try to make that sounds as eventually is could cause serious damage your turbo.
 
My clutch is not slipping. I thought it would for sure after this.



I don't know how old the fuel filter, but I assume it's newish. I bought the truck 3K miles ago, the oil filter and fuel filter looked brand new, and it had clear oil in it (had to have been changed right before I got it). I assume they were both changed right before I got the truck, but I am going to change in the next couple of days.



I understand the EGT's are low in comparison to the "norm", but when most people slide their plates forward, do they increase the boost? I haven't seen that to be the case. With all of the extra boost I added, EGT's shouldn't go up that much, should they?



How do I check fuel pressure, and how do I check the gov lever adjustment? I looked on the piers site, but it lacks good instructions. I also can't figure out how to put the fuel shutoff solenoid in the run position.



Why is that new sound a bad one? What is it?
 
Could the arm that rides on the plate be misaligned since you moved the plate forward more then normal? I think Piers website has info on this or do a search for governor arm( I think )
 
Originally posted by MatthewPark

I did look at the piers site again, I think I have the adjustment figured out, but that still doesn't explain why it's slow:)

So, did you have to adjust the gov. lever or did you at least check to see if it is hitting the plate? I had a similar problem to what you are having and with a #11 plate my lever was hitting below the plate and giving me zero power. Take the AFC housing off, pull the fuel shutoff solenoid lever up, move the throttle linkage forward a bit until you can view the gov. lever and keep moving the throttle forward until you see where the lever hits. My guess is it is not hitting the plate where it is supposed to.
 
Originally posted by MatthewPark





Why is that new sound a bad one? What is it?





That new sound is called "Turbo bark" if you keep letting it happen you can brake the shaft in the turbo, thats the "BAD".
 
I didn't adjust the lever. Where is the fuel shutoff solenoid lever? The piers site doesn't show that.

Thanks JGheen, I believe you are correct from what I have found searching on this site. If I could find the fuel shutoff solenoid lever, I think I could solve this.
 
The fuel shutoff solenoid is right in front of the AFC housing, if your looking at the engine from the driver side. It's on the right side of the injection pump if looking from the front of the engine. Just lift the lever up that the solenoid is connected to, and look down inside the AFC housing and as you move the throttle cable forward, like giving it some gas(lamens term), the gov. lever will come into view and should either be hitting the plate at the very bottom or it is riding underneath. If it is riding unde the plate try moving the plate forward and see what happens, if it still doesn't hit then you have to do the adjustment. Good luck if you have to adjust the lever, cuz it is a PITA.
 
After talking to a few folks with #5 plates and talking to a guy who just HAD to have my #10 plate, I bought a #5 plate. I decided not to even go in there to see what's going on until I got the #5 in the mail. It came today:)



I'm going to put the new kit in today. I will post my findings with my current setup later on tonight. I'd bet money the lever is under the plate.
 
This is my personal opinion, but I think you will like the #5 plate, I know I sure do. :D You may still have to adjust the lever, some do some don't, mine was just fine. A 3k GSK and 191DV's really wake things up, EGT's get a little toasty. :eek:
 
Other things came up today and I didn't get it in. Hopefully by noon tomorrow.



I'm not convinced delivery valves help all that much. Convince me:)
 
More Fuel

Desperado I would think you should benefit by adding more timing in your setup with all of that fuel, I would bump it up to 16 or 17*. Just my thoughts. Oo.
 
Re: More Fuel

Originally posted by nfox

Desperado I would think you should benefit by adding more timing in your setup with all of that fuel, I would bump it up to 16 or 17*. Just my thoughts. Oo.



I have set the timing up to 17*, just have not updated the sig, I'll do that now.
 
My heavily slotted #10 plate was working correctly. The governor lever was not going underneath it.



The #5 plate and boost elbow I put in didn't impress me, either. Boost gets to around 30 pounds, and EGTs top out just short of 1300 if I'm pulling a hill with a load, which I don't do that often. Shouldn't this thing at least peel out in 2nd on dry pavement? I thought this plate was supposed to add a bunch of fuel in right off idle.



I guess I should play with the AFC dial more... would that allow me lots of fuel at 1000 rpm?



I was at the dunes this weekend with a trailer that probably weighed 2000 lbs. I was trying to go up a hill that just HAPPENED to be next to a camp full of Power Strokes. I'd take it to 2500 and shift to 2nd, the truck would bog for a second, just long enough for me to slow down, get stuck, and have to back down. The Ford guys liked that one. My modded #10 plate wouldn't have done that (it would DUMP fuel in at 1000 rpm, completely obscuring my rearward view). Now I understand that a GSK would keep me in boost and cure this, but don't think it's unreasonable to want a dark cloud and some power whenever I give it some pedal.



Maybe I am just used to my truck now. Maybe I think it's slow because my other driver runs 12's. Maybe I'm about to take the damn plate out. Either way, it's frustrating.
 
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