Most 2013 and some 2014 NO fuel heater engaged

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The problem is the result of corporate, and by extension the dealer, NOT configuring a delivered vehicle correctly. I think it is time YOU got short with the service manager and started asking the hard questions about why they do not know how to perform their trained functions. :-laf

That should get the SM coming back with his hat in hand, if he is smart, or a fit and recriminations. Then you have to decide if they are worth doing business with. You already spent the $$ on the purchase, the truck, now they need to understand your vote with the maintenance $$ IS important to them.

Good luck.
 
Thanks Sag2 and everyone else that helped me figure this out. I tried to post the diagrams but my computer skills are weak! If Sag2 can get it resized, the chassis mounted fuel heater circuit is shown on the fuel pump sheet of the wiring schematic. I am currently trying to understand how the trailer tow wiring is set up. More to come on that. Ken Irwin
 
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Yes ,the dealer should change them, if on Back order have them write up a work order for 2 New filters and Make sure you get a copy. I just cannot understand why Owners are handing the SM at the Dealer TSB, the dealer is NOT required to perform most TSB unless they moved to recall status. When was the last time someone lemon on a TSB?. Work orders are legal Documents...EHarold Stay on um, C'mon WHO start this TSB trash anyhow, I would NEVER hand any SM a TSB and demand Repairs , I would want a worker order, The dealer performing repairs can take the TSB up with Ram or whoever I WANT the problem fix. Take care TCDiesel.
 
Thanks Sag2 and everyone else that helped me figure this out. I tried to post the diagrams but my computer skills are weak! If Sag2 can get it resized, the chassis mounted fuel heater circuit is shown on the fuel pump sheet of the wiring schematic. I am currently trying to understand how the trailer tow wiring is set up. More to come on that. Ken Irwin

If you open it in Adobe, just increase the size using the scale buttons (% size) at the top of the page.
 
Yes ,the dealer should change them, if on Back order have them write up a work order for 2 New filters and Make sure you get a copy. I just cannot understand why Owners are handing the SM at the Dealer TSB, the dealer is NOT required to perform most TSB unless they moved to recall status. When was the last time someone lemon on a TSB?. Work orders are legal Documents...EHarold Stay on um, C'mon WHO start this TSB trash anyhow, I would NEVER hand any SM a TSB and demand Repairs , I would want a worker order, The dealer performing repairs can take the TSB up with Ram or whoever I WANT the problem fix. Take care TCDiesel.

I'm not completely clear what you are trying to say here. But if you are saying the dealer must perform the TSB because the customer asks, you are not correct. A TSB is written to help the dealer diagnose and repair a known failure mode. What it does not do is apply to all vehicles of a particular model or year. It is the dealers responsibility to review the TSB and determine if the vehicle may be involved in it specifically. It is not a recall that must be completed by law, nor is it an authorization to repair under warranty.
I'm not saying the dealer is right or wrong in this case, just trying to clarify what is and isn't covered by a TSB. The customer is free to pay for a TSB to be completed if the dealer shows the vehicle does not exhibit the symptoms shown or does not specifically apply.
If the dealer just performed a search using one of the terms gelling, fuel, or cold, he would have found the SOL case and the TSB that describes this condition perfectly. And by the way, the SOL case was posted the day after you brought this to light on TDR.
 
I'm not completely clear what you are trying to say here. But if you are saying the dealer must perform the TSB because the customer asks, you are not correct. A TSB is written to help the dealer diagnose and repair a known failure mode. What it does not do is apply to all vehicles of a particular model or year. It is the dealers responsibility to review the TSB and determine if the vehicle may be involved in it specifically. It is not a recall that must be completed by law, nor is it an authorization to repair under warranty.
I'm not saying the dealer is right or wrong in this case, just trying to clarify what is and isn't covered by a TSB. The customer is free to pay for a TSB to be completed if the dealer shows the vehicle does not exhibit the symptoms shown or does not specifically apply.
If the dealer just performed a search using one of the terms gelling, fuel, or cold, he would have found the SOL case and the TSB that describes this condition perfectly. And by the way, the SOL case was posted the day after you brought this to light on TDR.

I here Sag2, Owners are going to Dealers and Demanding the TSB, Owners need go to Dealer and State the truck is stalling or gelling up, the SM in turn will create a work order.

I did not want to post the Details of what happen on DEC 1st, If you Browse the WEB 2005 to Current Many D-Max owners had gelling problems with marginal Fuel @ 0 temps With similar design, So I check the heater with inline Temp sensors In NOV ,I made calls to Tech ( I will spare the Details)and threaten to SUE RAM BC the Heater was NOT working , I brought over $250K in vehicle in 2013 Rams, I don't deal with salesman I deal directly with the powers at RAM BC $$$$$$.Once I talk to X person RAM was extremely Helpful in getting This resolved.

As soon as the Problem Was resolved I posted the Work order for correct repairs, I did NOT know Ram Would TSB the fix. I wanted owners to seek the Repairs on the Work order let Dealers hammer out the TSB, Owners needed the repair NOT beating up some SM TSBs, heck 1 owner posted he no longer wanted to own the 2013 BC the DEALER X repairs. Owners need to request Repairs NOT Some TSB that may have nothing to do with x Problem, Fine if some Dealer performs some TSB that's OK BY ME if approved BY ME, I want the specific problem resolved. Some had to return to the dealer x times BC the TSB was performed and the X problem still exist then its gets into a ******* match.

The Heater problem had residual effects BC the owners wanted the TSB and the Dealer perform it ,and BC the owner DID NOT STATE IT GELLED UP the dealer did not change filters and the next -0 temps the filer gelled again this time leaving the owner stranded over the Holidays UGH.

I knew how bad this was going to be for RAM and owners I did not want internet trash making it worst for all parties involved.RAM move quickly form My stand point and I give them credit for being so diligent.

On Edit: What I mean approved BY ME on my Vehicles..Only. Coon rapids Dodge/Ram/Jeep/Chrysler respect My professional opinion on Vehicles My businesses own and always run repairs on warranty by Me BEFORE they perform Them, Awesome place to deal with.
What I meant on the suing part is I already had install bypass heating and filtering, if RAM system was not going to work I was going to charge them for the Auxiliary system already install. I hate in tank Pumps and every Diesel I own has Auxiliary lift systems installed.

I've already have had problem with My fuel on My 1st 13 the water form Holiday station fuel, June 13 (Water) The factory In tank pump fail at 236 miles, the poor Fuel form Holiday in early DEC and the secondary Heater Not Working. With HPCR you needs to keep a careful eye on fuels or its goona be $$$$ in repairs.
 
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I hate going to a dealer a bit more than having surgery, however I journeyed the 40 miles to my nearest dealer, East Tenn. Dodge, in Crossville, TN this morning. They were unaware of the fuel heater problem, not unexpected where the temps are usually pretty mild.
I gave them the TSB number and a copy of the star report, plus a couple other TSB numbers I picked up on this forum.
They took care of all them very efficiently, plus my free oil change and did not try to sell me anything I didn't need.
Overall a good experience, particularly since I did not buy the truck there.
Thanks to the posters on the forum also as I never would have known of this problem unless I headed north at the wrong time
 
RikDavis did you get paper work stating what was done..Did the Tech manually engage the filters and verified the correct Voltage? Did they change the filters? or did they TSB and send you on your way without verification?
 
RikDavis did you get paper work stating what was done..Did the Tech manually engage the filters and verified the correct Voltage? Did they change the filters? or did they TSB and send you on your way without verification?

AS far as i can see on the paperwork the filters were not changed. However I have not suffered fuel gelling and only have 2500 miles on the truck.. The EVIC does show 99 percent filter life now. I think someone else commented on that happening.

What the paperwork actually says is:
Customer states to check heater on rear mounted filter. See attached paperwork ( Iprovided tsb, star report and results of my checking temps with IR thermometer as reported in a previous post)
Completed TSB 14-005-13 Reconfigured BCM as per chrysler LOP 181902C9

They also did TSB 008-001-14 and RRT 13-082. (spelled out in detail similiar to above) Considering the amount of time they spent on it, about 2 hours or more I suspect they did as they said but I will be checking the heater and/or voltage when it is cold enough again. This is the first the truck has been serviced.

I
 
AS far as i can see on the paperwork the filters were not changed. However I have not suffered fuel gelling and only have 2500 miles on the truck.. The EVIC does show 99 percent filter life now. I think someone else commented on that happening.

What the paperwork actually says is:
Customer states to check heater on rear mounted filter. See attached paperwork ( Iprovided tsb, star report and results of my checking temps with IR thermometer as reported in a previous post)
Completed TSB 14-005-13 Reconfigured BCM as per chrysler LOP 181902C9

They also did TSB 008-001-14 and RRT 13-082. (spelled out in detail similiar to above) Considering the amount of time they spent on it, about 2 hours or more I suspect they did as they said but I will be checking the heater and/or voltage when it is cold enough again. This is the first the truck has been serviced.

I
Just to update this post it is 14 degrees here on the Tennessee Tundra this morning. I just checked the temp of the filter with an IR thermometer, left the key in run for 15 minutes and checked again and found a 15 to 20 degree temp rise. I could also feel that the top of the filter housing was warmer than anything around it so the update was succesful. I would have liked to check the voltage but the thermometer was faster and it is mighty cold on that dirt barn floor.

My previous test showed no temp change.

Rick
 
Your good to go..... You only need to change the filters if they gelled up, If not run the mileage/life preference.

The truck had not been use at below freezing temperatures so I never would have known of this problem with out the info from the forum.
I would hate to have learned it while traveling north or during our unusual -8 last week. I would guess most dealers from here south will never see it happen and would not know about it unless a recall is sent out
 
Thanks to Kirwin and Sag2 for their additional posts regarding this topic.

On January 11th, I changed the rear axle fluid and I had a little extra time to re-check the 12V heater power.

It was 56*F...I turned the key to "RUN" and crawled underneath the truck....the voltmeter read 12.46 volts at this temperature. This more or less reiterates my previous suspicion that there's 12V there all of the time....regardless of ambient air temperature. Just thought I'd pass this along for those that may have any interest...
 
I have the same issue as Mr. Brockman

Took my truck into the dealer to get the body control module reconfigured but the rear filter heater still does not have voltage at the body connector. Guess I'll have to go back out there tomorow and ask them to verify the heater condition with this thread in hand. I attempted to verify the heater had power by verifying 12 volts at the connector right after I got home from the dealer. After I had no voltage, in an effort to ensure that the wasn't some other problem I pulled fuse F-37 verified the fuse was good and that there was continuity between the output pin of K13 and fuse F-37. I also verified the control power ground was good for K-13. I then fashioned a jumper and connected +12 volts to the heater side of fuse F37 and verified that I did indeed see +12 volts at the connector at the rear filter. Last I replaced relay K-13 with a jumper wire in the PDC, reinstalled fuse F-37, turned on the truck and instantly I got +12 volts at the connector at the rear filter. So it is purely the configuration of the BCM that is preventing heater operation on my truck. It does not supply +12 volts to the coil for K-13 so no rear heater. During my testing, I got 12 volts at the connector as soon as the key was turned on. All this research has led me to believe that relay K13 seems to have no purpose. Power for the heater comes through the run/start relay; K-13 is apparently supposed to be always energized when the run/start relay is energized, so why have K-13? I guess it makes it easier to split out the circuit for the fuse, but that's hardly a reason to add a relay. Maybe it's for a time delay to allow cranking with the heater off, but that would also be easy to accomplish as there is a run only relay in the PDC just for that purpose. I'll post my results after I make another trip to the dealer.
After further research I have discovered that relay K-13 actually gets heater power directly from the battery buss in the PDC vice the Run/Start buss as I posted above; thus if you make the jumper as I stated above it will bypass relay K-13 energizing the heater directly from the battery buss. With your fuel heater circuit energized whether the igntion is in run or off you could run your battery down if its cold enough to cause the thermistor to turn on the heater. The old eyes aren't what they once were, but when you blow the diragram up enough it clearly shows the connection jumps over the Run/Start relay output wire to the wire from the battery bus. I have confirmed this using my volt meter that shows that the relay has upstream power at all times. Sorry for my bad information. :eek:

My dealer supposedly did this flash Saturday. On Tuesday, I high-idled / warmed the truck up for about 9 minutes, and test drove for 4 miles. Prior to leaving (ambient temps were 9*F by the way) I checked the connector for voltage....zero point zero...just like Blutarsky's GPA from Animal House. Filter base and filter never got warm to the touch. I take my truck back yesterday.....and they finally got it turned on. I went out this morning (26*F) and turned the key to RUN. I had 12.43 volts at the connector. I'm going to say that I respectfully disagree with you; if the heater operation is not determined by ambient air temps (you stated heater operation is determined by fuel temps and the thermostat within the filter base) then the thermostat and heating element will need a 12V "RUN" source so that the thermostat can determine if operation is needed or not.
 
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Kirwin.....sorry to hear of your woes. Per the original STAR case info and TSB, it states to check for 12 volts at the connector; nothing like having to lick the calf twice, huhhhhh???? I really don't know why the techs skip this step. If memory serves me right, after the reconfiguration, the rear fuel heater info will say "SET" when it's enabled, as I observed looking at the Tech's laptop screen. I hope your dealer is closer than mine.......I had about 124 miles round trip TWICE (248 miles total) before mine was actually going. :mad:
 
Went back to the dealer with this thread in hand including Sag2's post and after we figured out that the TSB referenced above is for the PCM, ABS and DOC module reflashes and, as best as I can tell, the fuel heater reconfiguration is not directly addressed in the flash steps as it is intended to be completed after the reflash is complete. Human nature what it is, once it starts the flash up date and then says all updates complete, I guess the tech assumed that the fuel heater was also updated. I'm not sure what the words in the TSB say as I didn't get to see it, but I'd guess you have to keep reading to see the TSB words concerning the BCM reconfiguration. I don't know, it might even be on another page. Still glad I checked it. As a practice Dodge is pretty good about telling you how to verify the repair is complete and the words quoted from Sag2's post above "Validate proper heater operation by testing for battery voltage at the heater connections with the ignition switch is in the Run position" would suffice to verify the repair. If you pull fuse 37 in the PDC, with the ignition switch in run, you can check for +12 volts on the forward pin of that fuse. If you have 12 volts there the heater has been enabled.
 
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After further research I have discovered that relay K-13 actually gets heater power directly from the battery buss in the PDC vice the Run/Start buss as I posted above; thus if you make the jumper as I stated above it will bypass relay K-13 energizing the heater directly from the battery buss. With your fuel heater circuit energized whether the igntion is in run or off you could run your battery down if its cold enough to cause the thermistor to turn on the heater. The old eyes aren't what they once were, but when you blow the diragram up enough it clearly shows the connection jumps over the Run/Start relay output wire to the wire from the battery bus. I have confirmed this using my volt meter that shows that the relay has upstream power at all times. Sorry for my bad information. :eek:[/QUOTE]
 
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