Mountain bike recommendations

[WadePatton]

Get sized by a shop before you buy a road bike. Fit is much more critical there. If you're real big or real small you can get killer deals on used bikes.



Steel is Real, Alum-hohum, Ti-for life, CF=sticker shock and a good scratch will result in a crack. My bike is fine Italian steel welded in the good ol USA. Shop around there are some good deals online. That's how I found mine.



My fork is CF. That's enough for me.



gotta ride now.

 

[WadePatton]

CRAP. I went to the LBS (local bike shop) after a long while of NOT going. Got kinda interested in a singlespeed bike.



They've got a couple of Spots and a Surly. The cool Spot is Ti--too high for a first-time SS.



Then I found it. Bianchi SISS. rigid fork, avid discs, 2. 4 tires, "master says faster" dominatrix sticker, "cars are coffins" logo and "YOUR BIKE SUCKS" right on the chainstay. I'm in love! All this in Italian steel for only $700.

Darn there goes my DD3's!!!



This will be my winter training ride. Throw some fenders on it and ride muck with no XTR stuff to break or foul. Simple.

 

[jmtandem]

good mountain bike for 90 percent paved travel

Look at the Santa Cruz bikes. They are well made. I ride a Cannondale Delta V aluminum mountain bike built in 1993. It has a hard tail but head shock. It is a great climber! I have ridden it on the Markleeville Death ride and many single track mountain bike rides. It is reliable and the frame is very well made. Upgraded components can be added if you start with a good frame. Test riding a knobby tire bike on pavement is more about the tires than the rest of the bike. Check into weight as the full suspension bikes are heavier. There are two kinds of disk brakes, mechanical and hydraulic. Be sure you know what you are buying.



Listen to the advice from others in this thread about buying whatever you decide from a bike shop and make absolutely sure the bike fits you. If you ride mostly on the road you might let the shop know that for fit. Don't be on a frame that is too small or too big. There is only so much that can be done with seat and handlebar stem adjustments to compensate.

 

[jmtandem]

good mountain bike for 90 percent paved travel

Look at the Santa Cruz bikes. They are well made. I ride a Cannondale Delta V aluminum mountain bike built in 1993. It has a hard tail but head shock. It is a great climber! I have ridden it on the Markleeville Death ride and many single track mountain bike rides. It is reliable and the frame is very well made. Upgraded components can be added if you start with a good frame. Test riding a knobby tire bike on pavement is more about the tires than the rest of the bike. Check into weight as the full suspension bikes are heavier. There are two kinds of disk brakes, mechanical and hydraulic. Be sure you know what you are buying.



Listen to the advice from others in this thread about buying whatever you decide from a bike shop and make absolutely sure the bike fits you. If you ride mostly on the road you might let the shop know that for fit. Don't be on a frame that is too small or too big. There is only so much that can be done with seat and handlebar stem adjustments to compensate.

 

[WadePatton]

HOLY COW a Delta V fan!

Originally posted by jmtandem

Look at the Santa Cruz bikes. They are well made. I ride a Cannondale Delta V aluminum mountain bike built in 1993. It has a hard tail but head shock. It is a great climber!

You've GOT to be kidding! I had one of those. I'm glad you like yours.



Here's my Delta V story: It was my second mountain bike and my first upgrade. It was cool for about a year, then I didn't ride much for a while. So in 97 it was way out of date and a shop owner let me demo a Klein Adroit with a Judy on it. Well, aside from being about 5 pounds lighter--the Judy fork blew me away. It felt like it had 10x the travel and buttery smooth as well. No more headstuff for me. I quickly latched onto a Ti Hardtail with a Judy up front and felt like greased lightning on the trails after that--a full 6 pounds lighter, not to mention the pocketbook. Then I got the Full Suspension bug and got one of those and moved up in forks to the Marzocchi line. Picked up an aluminum HT for back up, put a Zoke on it. Got a real steel Roadie. And next week I'm picking up a Steel singlespeed with rigid fork.



Which brings me back to the start of things. About 1986 I started road riding and in 1988 bought my first ATB--A Cannondale Rigid (what else was there?) with a 6 whole gears on the rear cluster!



I doubt that I'll ride the SS rigid for long, but it'll be neat to try. Problem is I have a Manitou fork sitting around looking for a bike.



Been riding the bikes in 32x16 gear NO SHIFTING to warm up for the singlespeed. Actually it's not too bad.



Went night riding tonight--always have two batteries. Don't ask.



I'm 36 now and ride more than ever. It helps to have moved out of town and to a place with hills.



RIDE ON--if you're happy I'm happy! Heck I'm happy anyway--cuz there's one beer in the truck and I'm in front of you! see what night riding does to me...

 

[jmtandem]

you got to be kidding????

Wade,



I don't think I am kidding. Yes, the Delta V frame is dated. Yes, the head shock is limited to about one and one half inch of travel. But, for somebody who wants to ride a mountain bike mostly on the pavement the head shock can be turned off and the frame is a good climber. (That was the start of the thread, a mountin bike for mostly on pavement rides). Mine has upgraded Avid V-brakes, XTR, SPD clips, aftermarket seat, night lights, etc. At times I use 26 inch high pressure one inch tires to minimize rolling resistance when I need to ride on pavement. It is not the best trail mountain bike and it is not a downhill bike, but for an all around mountain bike it is very reliable. For a cross country mountain bike I like the Santa Cruz Heckler, full suspension, disk brakes, etc.



I also ride a Bianchi Campione steel road bike that I have ridden 140 miles in a day and a steel tandem. I still like steel bikes and ride the Bianchi almost every day in the spring, summer and fall.



See I wasn't kidding!

 

[John L]

jmtandem-

This is kinda off the subject but wanted to know your option on the Death Ride. Did you complete all the passes? Reading your post looks like you used your mountain bike. I was thinking about riding this course with a couple of friends and wasn't sure if I should use my Road Bike's stock gears (39/53 front, 12-25 rear) or use one of my spare xt cassettes (12-34) and xtr derailleurs. This would give me a lower gear ratio then someone with a standard triple but with large gear gaps. I would use my hardtail mountain bike but I'm afraid my friends would leave me in the dust on any climbs less then about 10 percent.



John

 

[WadePatton]

singlespeed and fixed gear

JMT- I'm really glad you like it, I was never happier than the day I sold mine. I rode it around town-good for that and took it on serious XC rides-not so good.



But that's the distant beer-can-bike past.



BTW you folks with double posts can delete the second one by going to [edit] then [delete this post] up near the top.



Master says faster.

 

[jmtandem]

still kidding???

Wade,



I will retire my 'Dale soon. It has been a faithful ride. It is time to get some new bicycle technology in my garage.





Come visit some time, we start rides at over 7000 feet altitude and go up. Lots of lung sucking in but not a lot of air going in. You would probably like it, the Great Flume Trail, Downieville Descent, Mr. Toads Wild ride, Hole in the Ground, and lots more. Some of the rides are included in magazines top 10 mountain bike rides. If you like downhill, there are a few ski resorts that will carry the bike up on the lift and you ride it down. A little expensive but fun.



Now you are kidding, only 'one' beer back in the truck for the after ride hydration replenishment??? And you want to beat me back to the truck for 'one' beer?????

 

[jmtandem]

Death Ride

John L.



Getting into the Death Ride is about as hard as riding it for some. There are over 6000 entries and 2700 selected riders. The DR uses different selection processes each year that is frustrating to applicants. There is a lot more discussion about this on the www.chainreaction.com website. You cannot just tag along as they check riders before the first climb. You can't use the argument that you are on a public road either, as the DR has a permit for the day that limits bikes to those on the ride and cars are not permitted during the hours of the ride.



As to gearing, I think most do the ride with a triple chainring. There are a few purists that still ride with only two chainrings. Mountain bikes with high pressure tires are prevalent as some of the grades up Ebbets Pass exceed 12-15 percent. Next time I will ride the road bike with a triple. I have ''bagged" most of the passes and none are easy. Carson Pass has the most vehicle traffic including motorhomes. The road is not that wide and cars sometimes pass pretty close, a feeling I don't like. Carson Pass is the only pass that is still open to cars during the DR.



There is an aura of respect (almost revrential) about the Death Ride that is not found on most other organized rides I have ridden. Wear a Death Ride tee shirt or jersey and people instantly recognize it and talk or ask about it. Even people who are not bicycle riders. I have worn tee shirts from the Chico Wildflower and many other large organized century rides in California and people seem ho hum about it. But not the DR.



The actual DR ride is a century in the mountains. It is hard because of the climbing, heat, cold, or mountain weather. If you have never done it, try it. Just get well accliminated to high altitude riding and long steady climbs. Before the DR, riders training are on the same passes every weekend. Ebbetts Pass especially is long, windy and has grades in places greater than 12 percent. If you ride it, drink lots of water for the altitude.