Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Move batteries to truck bed?

[DPellegrin]

Gentlemen:

With all this re-engineering the location of the batteries as well as adding disconnect switches, etc. , has anyone performed an actual voltage drop test on the starting system after all this surgery? It seems to me that moving the batteries further from the starter would require larger cables to maintain the manufacturers' voltage drop specifications. If the voltage drop is greater than specified you are significantly increasing the stress on the starter motor.



Regards

 

[480RUGER]

Good point. That's where my group 31 batteries and 4/0 gauge wire comes in. Thanks for putting that out there.

 

[BigPapa]

I've been looking at doing this myself and I think you will actually shorten the distance to the starter, not by much, but a little. Especially considering the distance from one battery to the other.



My only problem as stated by others is the need for a distribution block close to where the driver's side battery is presently located. Something like the one below maybe???



Scott

 

[Willys]

Moving the batteries has several advantages, if done correctly.

1. The batteries will be side by side so cable distance between them is small

2. Depending on where they're mounted they may possibly be closer to the starter

3. I'm not using battery cable! I am using 1/0 or 2/0 welding cable. Welding cable has 2-3x as many wire strands than battery cable, thus not only making it more flexible, it is also able to carry far more current even in a smaller size wire. The only cable type that would have more wire strands would be speaker wire, however if you use this make sure it's rated for oil, rot resistance, etc. Since welding cable is used in a shop, it's already rated to handle those conditions.

4. More space under the hood. This is a HUGE space difference in trying to work on your Dodge Ram pickup. Having difficulties changing oil and trying to get your hands and arms to it? Not anymore!

Scott, I don't understand why you need a Junction block?

I recommend using batteries with studs rather than posts, but if you're like me and already have the batteries, then you can try this. You can buy post clamps with studs built in. then all your cables can have eye-bolt lugs. I will have 2 cables connecting the batteries in parallel, then 1 negative ground cable to the frame with 1 ground to the engine block. 1 Positive cable to the starter with a cable bolted from there up to the fuse panel. I discovered I using a 1/0-2/0 welding cable from the starter to the fuse panel, I can reconnect the grid heaters on the battery side of the fuse panel right on top of the battery cable.

If this doesn't make since I will post pics once I do this on my truck. It's quite simple really, and the only thing that requires mounting is the batteries. If you remove the factory battery boxes as I am doing, you will have to reattach the cruise control actuator to the body as it is bolted to the driver side battery tray. I plan to fab a simple bracket to hold it in place.

 

[Shadrach]

...



I recommend using batteries with studs rather than posts...



I disagree here. Post have more contact area than studs, although I can understand the convenience of studs for other connections, and for joining the two batteries together. I know you can buy adapters to change studs to post also. I like post batteries for another reason as well, they are more common if you need to replace one in the middle of nowhere. Shadrach

 

[BigPapa]

Scott, I don't understand why you need a Junction block?

I have several smaller wires on the terminal clamps on my battery. As I said, I haven't really looked at it hard to see what these wires are, but I know I don't want to have to run them to the bed. A large cable from the starter to a distribution block in the engine bay near where the battery is now looks like the way to go to me. If you have a way around that it I'll do it this weekend!



Scott

 

[480RUGER]

I'm like you. I put a distribution box on the fender where the driver’s side battery was and ran all the positive wires to it. I welded a stud on the frame just below it for the ground tie in. Just make sure you have a good connection between the body, frame and block.



I have a new Heavy-duty 3-stud Buss Bar ordered from delcity.net and went with some of their 2/0 Dual Power Cable Connector for the front and back. Nice stuff.

 

[CSherman]

i put the batteries on the frame just as tgordon described. it takes the pain out of changing filters. the bat. boxes are on a slide.

 

[Willys]

Hi again. I appologize for not writing back sooner. I got pretty busy, but tonight I FINALLY moved the batteries. While I am working on a bracket it is not built yet, so I ran the cables through a pre-existing hole in the bed and into my tool box where the batteries are. so basically, I have the positive cable going straight to the starter. From the start post I also have another cable going to the factory fuse panel where the grid heaters and other accessories are bolted to. Then the ground goes straight to the engine block. I also have a 12guage ground from the block to the body. It works pretty well, however one of the batteries needed to be recharged since I haven't used it in 6 months. I have them trickle charging now so in the morning it should start like a charm.

I now understand your reason for the distribution block, however I still don't have a real need for it.

Well, as far as the bracket goes, I am still working on it. I haven't really done much with it as I like to tinker with stuff in my mind before I waste energy and material on making something only to be unhappy with it and have to start over. But, I luckily came across a piece of steel with the edges bent 90% to look like a piece of channel - my batteries fit PERFECTLY inside! so that's my start. I will post another update... when I have it. Thank guys, good night!

 

[Willys]

***update***

Well, this is what I have right now. I got tired of talking and thinking about it so I just DID IT! I am hoping to finish and paint it this weekend, even get it mounted. Maybe this will give you all some ideas. This will be bolted to the frame between the transfer case and the fuel tank. Safest place on the truck. The deminsions are 24 3/4"x8"x8" I will be using 6 1/2" bolts, nuts with locktight, and large washers.

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[Sandifer]

Bracket looks good! Keep us posted on how it goes. I only run one battery on my truck since I don't use the grid heater. I was planning on putting a larger battery on the frame.

 

[Willys]

*update*

Hello everyone. Thanks for the comment Sandifer.



The bracket is now almost complete. I've made some mods to it for the sake of bolting it to the frame. It's by no means perfect but will handle the job just fine. I have also cut holes in the bracket to save on weight. I have become addicted to the Cummins Tan paint, although I don't think it looks as good on the bracket as it does on the engine itself. Take a look and tell me what you think.



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[Willys]

*Primered*

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[Willys]

*Painted*

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[Sandifer]

I like. You definitely took some weight out of it!

 

[480RUGER]

Personally I like the three punched out holes on the bottom right and the torched holes everywhere else. Nice touch. I’ll take a plasma torch over a green lee punch any day. Good job!

 

[Willys]

Thank you.

I was wondering if anyone would notice the different holes! lol I was using a 2" hole saw with a drill at first, but since the metal is 1/8" and 3/16" plate, I figured it'd ruin the hole saw, so that's when the torch volunteered to finish the job. I like the hole saw look better, but when it's under the truck, who's going to notice? Thank you again. I will have more pictures to follow when it's bolted in place with the batteries installed.

 

[moparguy]

Thanks for the update. I'd given serious consideration to doing the same. I'm on one battery, group 31, no problems.



Only issue i've got is water. In my neckof the woods, it's sometimes necessary to run thorough bumper deep water, don't know how the battery would like that.

 

[Willys]

*Complete*

Thursday evening I went home and bolted the bracket to the truck and installed the batteries. I am not 100% happy with this setup but it seems to work quite well. If any of you attempt this make SURE nothing is near the drive shaft! You will see that I made certain of that.

Also be VERY cautious not to ground a wrench to the truck while touching the positive posts. I didn't make this mistake as I was very cautious (however, I did lay my arm across the positive post at one point while wrenching the negative post... . I felt a good tingling sensation, but no pain. So be careful there too!

I plan to make a shield out of lexan to cover the batteries from dirt, water,etc. I will also install a quick disconnect to the front bumper for jumper cables and install my Priority Start (a motorized device that physically disconnects the batteries if they drop below 11. 9volts). So keep an eye out for that this month!

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[Willys]

*Complete* - Cpntinued

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