Multimeter Questions

[Joe G.]

Most of them work just fine. There are two things to look for in cheap meters. Make sure that it has more than one range for ohms (resistance) measurements. Some of them have only one range marked in 1K ohm intervals. Also make sure that there is a low DC voltage range so that 12V is at least 1/3 of the way (30V or so max). A 50V scale will work but 15V is better.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[illflem]

Joe's advice is good,one thing I might add is that you get one that beeps in the ohms mode when you have a direct short. This makes it easier when you are in a contorted position under the dash searching for the other end of a wire or bad connection and can't look at the meter gauge. Some multimeters also come will a temperature position on the dial and a thermocouple that can be handy at times. I use Fluke meters,which are on the high side of the quality/ price range scale,many auto parts and tool suppliers carry them. You may be hard pressed to find one not made in China,but the Chinese products quality is getting better all the time. Radio Shack is full of good ones. If you are boycotting China due to the effect they are having on world trade,I'm behind you 100%

 

[drawson]

You need to be careful choosing a Multi meter. Some of the ohm meters out there use way too much voltage to check for resistance. I have seen some using over 5 volts and hooked to the wrong sensor on your ram this would be bad new for the sensors. I believe you get what you pay for when it come to digital volt ohm meters. Fluke meters are pricy but they won't hurt any thing and the top of the line models have auto ranging, min/max reading & Hz reading. The one used most often in the automotive industry is the Fluke 87 which will set you back 3 1/2 bills, but in my book it is well worth it.

 

[Steve M]

I also have a Fluke 87 true RMS meter. I have it for the safe use of testing circuits over 600 volts along with solid state frequency testing. A cheap meter can hurt you or worse. My fluke was over $300 too but I feel safe with it and it's fused and safe to touch high voltage with it accidently left on ohm scale. Whatever you get, make sure it's a good solid unit with heavy leads with probes and alligator clips. You will end up wanting to test other high voltage items aroung the house... Fluke makes some less expensive models without RMS capabilities. I prefer a digital unit with a lighted readout.

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98 2500 CC 4X2 12v 5spd 4. 10, -silencer, AFC+20, Edelbrock IAS, VDO gauges
97 Dodge Stratus 150HP
92 Harley Fatboy, Dynojet fuel management, Supertrapp 2-1

 

[Rebel]

Check-out this link http://www.web-tronics.com/webtronics/test-equipment-digital-multimeters-wavetek-xt-series.html
The company I work for bought several of these meters for their techs. Good quality but not as pricey as Fluke. If you want the very best get a Fluke, they set the standard.

 

[Ladders]

Also, you can purchase from Radio Shack a Digital tracer that is a "glorified" test lite and doesnt load the ckt. I use one quite a bit ( dont have the mdl # with me but it is about 1" wide and about 4-5" long with LED lites and the probe attached to one end, the grnd lead plugs into it) It can be driven off a 9 volt battery and used to trace ckts but not measure.

just another opinion... for what its worth... ... .

\\BF//

 

[ETOBICOKE]

Joe, I agree with the other fellas, Fluke meters are the way to go. If you plan to go digital there are many advantages, like autoranging, touch hold, audible continuity,analog bar graph and auto polarity. These features make them easy to use for a beginner. Also I would suggest getting the highest overload protection available, some only go to 500V, 750 or 1000V is better, this prevents damaging the meter if you select the wrong mode. Also keep in mind that these meters draw very little current when measuring voltage, so for example, if you measure the voltage of a battery with a cracked plate it may still show full voltage, but under load nothing. Fluke makes numerous models, so you can probly find one with the features you need at a reasonable price.

Neil

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Neil Copeman 92 D250,LE,limited slip, 16cm turbo housing, Isspro gauges, factory tach option, Lear cap, DC crankdown tire carrier
Hadley air horns, Stealhorse leather seats, e-mail (home): bombedcummins@sympatico. ca

 

[Joe G.]

In my recomendation in my first post above I was considering cheap meters to use for simple auto wiring. An ohm meter and volt meter is really all you need for that. If I think I have a computer type electronic problem the truck will go in the shop with someone who has a complete test set up. My old Simpson Multimeter gave up the ghost a couple of years ago. Internal corrosion finally did it in. It really had more than I needed. I've been able to do all I need to do with a simple meter. I know enuff not to try a continuity check on a circuit with solid state electronics even tho I've been away from the electronic tech type of work for many years now. If my wife's LHS has a problem the dealer gets a call. If my '95 Ram has a problem I fix it and only need my cheapo meter. It has quite a bit of custom circuitry. Spending a hundred bucks or more for a meter to do this just doesn't make sense to me.

 

[Paul]

I just purchased a couple of Greenlee digital multi-meters for around $30. 00 each. They are a pretty nice unit. They have 2 ranges in ACV, 4 ranges in DCV,DC mA, 5 ranges in ohms, plus a beep mode.

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Paul A. Schmidt
95, 4X4, SLT 2500, 5 spd. , 4. 10, 270 hp. ,675ft. lb. TST, AFC spring kit,215hp. injectors,16cm2 turbo housing, Pacbrake, Walker muffler,
GearVendor O. D. , CenterForce Dual Friction clutch.
Eastern PA.

 

[Happy Camper]

Thank everyone!

This is the response I was looking for. A range up the scale. From all this info I will be able to determine what features I will need.

 

[Happy Camper]

Thanks in advance on the responsed comming forth.

I need a multimeter and do not want to purchase one with made in China lable if I can avoid it.
1. How many functions should it perform?
2. How many ranges?
3. Where to purchase?
4. What price range?

I will be using it on the 2001 Ram in place of the test light which I understand plays havoc with the computer. I will not be performing comples tasks but I don't want to be limited either by the unit not being able to perform some functions.

I am at ground zero with Multimeters!!!!!

Thanks again,

 

[Shelby Griggs]

Another vote for the Fluke. I bought a Fluke 77 in 1988 that is still going strong.

Shelby

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2001. 5 2500 QC LB 4WD, ETH, DEE, 3. 54 gears, Laramie SLT, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Travel Convenience Group, Power Driver Seat, Alarm System, Remote Keyless Entry, Fog Lamps, Cab Clearance Lamps, HD Transfer Case, Bright White with a Gray Interior. Built 09-15-00, took delivery on 10-06-00, 1749 miles as of 11-25-00. Custom aluminum work body / flat bed. Coming soon: E-Brake and gauges.

 

[Samscov]

And yet another vote for fluke, I use a 27 every day, an excellent brand that will take a lot of abuse. One thing that is great on resistance and voltage readings is the autorange function which can be switched to manual. It also has a diode tester which comes in very handy. I think You can get a 20 series which is not quite as deluxe a meter as the ones the other gents mentioned for a little less than $200.
You get what You pay for, as someone who earns his living using one of these meters, I think a Fluke is worth every penny. IMHO

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2001. 5 ETH/DEE 2500 4X4 Q. C. SLT Lund Visor Owens Runningboards C R Laurence Power Slider & Others BUT NO POWERTRAIN BOMBING!!!
"The Redneck Toy Box"

 

[Wayne M.]

Another Fluke user here, I use the Model 88 which is tailored for automotive use. Not cheap, but the best! It comes with a thick manual which is real handy. Had mine since '91 or so and is still like new.

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'92 W250,3. 54,auto,reg cab, raven hi top cap, tach,boost,transtemp,pyro. 16cm housing.

 

[Dane]

My 15+ year old Fluke is still going strong. A DVM is one of those items you don't want to scrimp on imo...

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

[illflem]

Dane you are so right. IMO a DVM is like any other tool,you get what you pay for. More than just the price is the ability to trust that your tool will work for you when you need it most year after year. It really sucks to have a tool fail or become inacurate half way though a job in the middle of nowhere. My choices for tools are Fluke,Milwaukee,Lincoln and Snap-On,they go right along with a Cummins.

 

[illflem]

just got an email look who sells Fluke Radio Shack!

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Happy Camper,

I don't know how much you've used a multimeter before, but don't do what my buddy almost did--try to measure the ampherage of his battery with his new $19. 99 Radio Shack multimeter #ad
Luckily he called me up to make sure he was doing it right and says "now if I switch the red wire over to the "A" socket to read current then touch the red on the positive terminal of the battery and the black on the negative . . . " <font size = 5> No! </font size = 5> At least it was a cheap meter.

When in college there was this freshman in electronics that wasn't altogether "with it. " One day the lights suddenly went out on our wing of the dorm. Paul had taken his new multimeter and decided to check the house current in his dorm room. Red probe tip into one outlet slot and the black probe tip in the other . . . <font size = 4> <font color = red> kaBLAMMY </font size = 4> </font color = red> #ad
Blew the tips off the probes and turned his new digital multimeter into a smoldering, very melted multimeter. He was very fortunate to only receive a couple welts on his fingers.

Vaughn

[This message has been edited by Vaughn MacKenzie (edited 12-19-2000). ]

 

[John]

Oops! right Vaughn? #ad


I wanted to purchase a Fluke DVM however, I was waiting for my 20 yesr old Radio Shack DVM to bite it. You guessed it... it died at the most inopportune time, right in the middle of a project JUST before a long holiday weekend. I called the Snap-On dealer on his cell phone to get his approximate location... knowing that he sold Fluke I thought I was in fat city. Wrong. When I finally met up with him (LATE Friday afternoon), I found out he sells Fluke via special order only. #ad
I guess I was mislead into thinking he stocked Fluke as he had numerous Fluke accessories on display (and for sale) in his truck. Needing a multimeter IMMEDIATELY, I elected to purchase one of the Blue-Point (designed by Snap-On, built by a vendor) instruments he had onboard. It's their model #EEDM504A auto ranging unit. It is far more advanced than I although, I'm learning. As cool and useful as it is I really wanted a Fluke... just because.

 

[Happy Camper]

Vaughn! I saw one once! #ad
: That is my experience with one. I would like to hook up, at some point and time, auxillary lights to work only when high beam is on and also to hook up the trailer brake, Espar heater. That is where I would be starting out. To heck with the house current. If the lights go out I will use a flash light!

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Bert
2001. 5,3500 QC 4x4, HO/6spd,limited slip,BD brake,60 gal Aero tank.