Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) my fuel gauge thinks its funny

[NBowlin]

do any of you guy/gals have a problem with your fuel gauge making its own work schedual? mine works as it pleases. it will work for a few mintutes then stop for a few not work at all, or i guess when it is feeling really ambitious it will work for a few hours. if this is a common thing or anyone else has figured out how to get theirs to work a lot more consitantly i would like to know how you did it. thank you for your time

 

[SRadke]

I've replaced a couple in secong gen 12 valves. They started to indicate the tank was empty prematurely. The problem in these cases was the sending unit in the tank.



-Scott

 

[JDougherty]

this is a common problem with the 12v trucks. do a search and you will find more then enough information

 

[Tardog]

Had mine do the same thing a year ago. I went for the DIY repair to the unit. Took me about 2 hours start to finish by myself. I went with drop the tank method, some lift the box. Here is a link to a similar repair, I did it just a slightly different way(with a push on "P" nut) and it has worked fine since. http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/sender.htm

 

[MWBrooks]

I just went through this repair on my truck. I chose to upgrade the existing sending unit since a new unit would still have the same inferior design. I raised the bed since I was doing this by myself (I thought I'd look like a monkey with a football trying to wrestle that tank in and out by myself). Job was a PITA but I'm glad it's done.





Mike







P. S. It was the only time in my life that I was ever happy to see my fuel gauge go down.

 

[JohnG]

Yep. . I gotta do mine as well. Guage reads right down to about 5/8 full, but then goes down from there to nearly empty in the next 50-100 miles. Bought a new unit (pn#4797738) for $44. 28 (wholesale in Oregon, no tax), (I think I'll do some 'repair' even on the new unit like I read in the dodge ram.org), but I'm wondering how to get the tank low enough to not kill myself when removing it. . I don't want to run the motor out of fuel, I've heard it said this is a bad thing. . I don't have help to get the bed off, which is the way I'd prefer. I dunno. . I guess I'll try to get the bed off by myself. . I'm seeing 4 bolts toward the front and 4 bolts toward the rear of the bed. Is that it? Can I leave the last two in the rear and tilt the bed OK? Any advise is apreciated. . JohnG

 

[SRadke]

Well I uh. . sorta hit a deer with mine so I fixed the fuel sender in the body shop while they had the bed off. I don't really suggest you go that rout.



-Scott

 

[Kalaehina]

If you go the dump bed method leave the rear bolts on but loose so it can pivot up a little, if you do the drop tank method, get ready for a fun time. I do it that way all the time, 4 or 5 times already, I can get my tank down in 5 minutes, disconnect filler hose, fuel lines, electrical connection, strap tank to make shift jack support and were good to go, not fun, but easy.

 

[Koa Man]

My truck's fuel gauge reads real accurately and has never given me a problem. I think it knows that I have a dump bed on it and it will take me all of 5 seconds to raise the bed and get full access to the fuel sender. Seems like it is always something that is hard to get to that will give you problems.

 

[RT66DOC]

Mine got erratic about a year ago. I just go by the odometer. Easier and cheaper.