Here I am

My New 2019

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Best step for dually

Best cellphone mount and where to mount it in 2018

Status
Not open for further replies.
You just grab it and lift it up. It's sounds hard, but it's not. The hard part is aligning the threads to get the filter started. And you don't put the plug on super tight, just snug. Again, easy. ;)

This is a one beer job, unless you want two.

Same here , thru the fender I did it once from above listening to some here , the mystery for me is why they continue to do it that way :D It’s never been difficult to find the threads and feel it going on straight .

The one thing I do is I stuff an old towel in the cavity below the filter so it had some thing to sit on when I put the cap on , same when going back in , and taking the cap off. Forgot to take the old towel out , it was still there when I did the next filter change :rolleyes:
 
Whenever you have to thread anything (nuts, bolts, filters, pipes) if you put it where its supposed to go (even if you cant see it) and turn it back a quarter turn, it will usually fall into place. You can even feel it "seat" and then you can start screwing it on. I know most of you guys already know that, but some may not. Makes life a lot easier, especially if what your working on has fine threads that cross easy.
 
Whenever you have to thread anything (nuts, bolts, filters, pipes) if you put it where its supposed to go (even if you cant see it) and turn it back a quarter turn, it will usually fall into place. You can even feel it "seat" and then you can start screwing it on. I know most of you guys already know that, but some may not. Makes life a lot easier, especially if what your working on has fine threads that cross easy.

And if they didn’t know that ,then they are still taking all those parts off from the top to do that oil filter :eek: :D
 
I changed the oil filters reaching around the two 4B150's in the boat for 19 years, blindly by feel. Running parallel to the Cummins in the boat were/are three RAM trucks with Cummins and it is a pleasure to remove intake noses between air filter box and turbo, and change the filter where I can see what I am doing and use one hand to hold up the filter and the other to turn it. I have looked at the small hole in the fender liner behind a large tire and said I do not think so. However to each their own. Enjoy the way you do it, but please do not disparage people that do it a different way, as it makes one look small and/or a know it all.
 
Last edited:
As I approach my 20K oil change, I am planning to also do the diffs. Haven't decided between Red Line or Amsoil. Anyway, I was perusing the owner's manual, and the diesel supplement, and, unless I missed it(quite possible), the capacities are not listed. It calls out 75W85 Front, and 75W140 Rear. IIRC, I'll need 3 Qts Front and 5 Qts Rear. This truck has the 12" rear diff.

My search for better info led me to the Ram Bodybuilder site, and there I discovered there is a TSB to address a build issue I found my truck has, which is the "blunt cut wires" to the rear of the frame, a part of the upfitter switch package, were left out on earlier builds, and they apparently have a patch harness to remedy this. I had discovered this when I tried to wire up the repeater for my trailer TPMS, like I had on my '15, but couldn't locate the wires. An email reply from the upfitter group explained the error, and I figured that was the end of that.
Screen Shot 2020-06-15 at 10.39.18 AM.png
 
As I approach my 20K oil change, I am planning to also do the diffs. Haven't decided between Red Line or Amsoil. Anyway, I was perusing the owner's manual, and the diesel supplement, and, unless I missed it(quite possible), the capacities are not listed. It calls out 75W85 Front, and 75W140 Rear. IIRC, I'll need 3 Qts Front and 5 Qts Rear. This truck has the 12" rear diff.

My search for better info led me to the Ram Bodybuilder site, and there I discovered there is a TSB to address a build issue I found my truck has, which is the "blunt cut wires" to the rear of the frame, a part of the upfitter switch package, were left out on earlier builds, and they apparently have a patch harness to remedy this. I had discovered this when I tried to wire up the repeater for my trailer TPMS, like I had on my '15, but couldn't locate the wires. An email reply from the upfitter group explained the error, and I figured that was the end of that.
View attachment 122107

Amsoil has nifty squeeze packages now that make putting lube in easy.
 
It also appears that the 12.0 also takes LSD additive, the first time on a HD axle, not C&C, since 2002.

I wonder what changed. I hope it’s not a clutch style LSD again.

EDIT: For 2020 the SRW's are back to 75w-85.

B1666165-3186-42D2-8F0D-E0BFA3E12089.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Gross... I hate those. They work when you don't want them to.. i.e. on ice, and don't work when you want them to.. i.e. loose surfaces, mud, dirt, etc.

I'd rather run an open diff than a clutch style LSD.

I don't know about AAM but on the Dana's, the open axle carrier is soft and the ring gear side carrier bearing will spin. This don't happen on the LSD, the metal is way better, they also use 4 spider gears v/s 2. Maybe Tom can take pictures when he does his service. I am a fan of heavy rear axle gear oil, the Cummins needs it. 75w-85 is about like 50w, what are they thinking??
 
Gross... I hate those. They work when you don't want them to.. i.e. on ice, and don't work when you want them to.. i.e. loose surfaces, mud, dirt, etc.

I'd rather run an open diff than a clutch style LSD.

I don't know about AAM but on the Dana's, the open axle carrier is soft and the ring gear side carrier bearing will spin. This don't happen on the LSD, the metal is way better, they also use 4 spider gears v/s 2. Maybe Tom can take pictures when he does his service. I am a fan of heavy rear axle gear oil, the Cummins needs it. 75w-85 is about like 50w, what are they thinking??
 
I've had the same one installed on my 2012 since new and first change. They also now make a safety clip that clips around the lever to prevent it from opening as well as someone from tampering with it. I've never had an issue with it and always get a thank you from the guys at Valvoline when I can't get the time to change my oil and take my stuff to them.
 
The AAM 11.5, which includes the 11.8, was designed around 75w-90. I spoke with AAM about it and they stated it was the appropriate fluid for all conditions, with the only exception (more of a joke) was constant operation in death valley well above GCWR.

AAM's have used a helicar gear style LSD since they went into a Dodge/Ram which operates better than a clutch style and doesn't require any friction modifier.

I'd be curious what all has changed with the 12.0.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JR
Reached 20K miles, now. Three gallons of Delo Synthetic and a Stratapore went in. Also decided to dump the diffs, based on reports on TDR. I went with Red Line 75W90 front, and 75W140 rear.

Rear was not nearly as nasty as some I have seen photos of. Maybe the 12" diff is not as hard on lube??? Pattern looked good to me. No doubt due to breaking it in by pulling the toy hauler right out of the box:D
20200715_065122.jpg
20200715_065128.jpg



Not surprisingly, the oil that came out of the front looked like new.
20200715_091817.jpg
20200715_091822.jpg


Working off a creeper is a chore these days. Gonna get that shop built one of these days.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top