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My Ram Air Project Takes Another Step

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Dispensing of Amalgamated Fuel Add

I hate my new clutch!!

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I updated my readers rig photos with the next step to my ram airsystem that I have been working on for about a year now.



All I need to do now is build a lid for it.



I cant make my egt go over 1300 no matter the load or %grade, just mash the go peddel to the floor and dont worry !!!



I love it when I have to use the jake going up hill into a corner at 8% grade with my 27' 5er hooked up :D



see the setup here



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&albumid=474
 
Dude... . If you put a cover on it , you'll choke the engine to death!!! You'll defeat the BHAF surface area with only a 3" PVC pipe feeding as the intake. You'll need a min. of twice the turbo intake which is 4" for "RAM AIR". If you are set on your design, I suggest an 8" sewer lateral as your supply.
 
Just curious, have you had it on any other truck then your own? I guess what I am asking is have you had on a truck with mega horsepower (450+)? Your sig says EZ comp ... ..... do you have an EZ or a COMP hooked up to function as an EZ? Just trying to determine your HP level.
 
The lid will work fine and look good too, See the front of the box is wide open to the headlight area and around the intercooler area, I know there is plenty of cool air comming in there. Also the filter box has plenty of openings from the bottom too.



Kat I have a comp and 275's, I did my test on 5x5 , I have never dynoed but am guessing I am around 350 hp and 750-800 torque... ... ... ... . just a guess.



cheers, Kevin
 
That is looking good... I always wanted to do something with a pipe sticking down to catch some cool air. If possible post a pic from under the truck looking up. . I would love to see how you routed the pipe. . I just don't have a shop to work in or the time as of late.





Are you planning on making this for trucks at a later date??



Keep up the good work.





John
 
A pic looking up from the bottom would'nt show much.



Basically the 3" ram tube is the bigest that will fit, you have to take your glycol puke bottle out and that is the path, straight to the frame and then two 45* pieces and then the 90* right after that, there is a little bow in the frame right there and the 3" pipe fits in there like a glove.



cheers, Kevin
 
Have you done any testing on the highway in a rain storm ? I would think traveling at 70mph and that filter sucking air, you might get it wet.



BBD
 
Originally posted by Whitmore

Kat I have a comp and 275's, I did my test on 5x5 , I have never dynoed but am guessing I am around 350 hp and 750-800 torque... ... ... ... . just a guess.



Thanks, was just a bit confused by what your signature said is all, its all clear now. 350hp is a decent guess for COMP + 275's. Thanks
 
Originally posted by BigBadDodge

Have you done any testing on the highway in a rain storm ? I would think traveling at 70mph and that filter sucking air, you might get it wet.



BBD
[/QUOTE



Yes I have thought of that and what I plan on doing is to rig a slide gate at the opening of the ram tube, I hope to make it a cable affair to be operated from the cab. Or if I could rig it with a solinoid valve would be better and easier. I do have air on-board.



I am also looking for one of those layers to fit over the filter as well. Pre filter or what ever you call them.



Also on the water issue , I dont know if the rain water will travel up the tube , it is about 16 to 18" long ar tall ??



Anybody have an idea on how to make a workable cap on the ram tube???



cheers, Kevin
 
:) Food for thought here base on experience. I built a twin ram air set up for my old Volkswagen Golf Diesel that I had a few years ago as my beater. Before I did that I was getting 38 mpg. After installing two 3 inch vacuum hoses to either side of the filter box and setting them below the bumper, my mileage went to 46 mpg. I was in love with this. The rain though would get into the box at free way speed. The right hose was 2 feet long and the left hose was 3 1/2 feet long. The other problem was in the winter. Driving over to Idaho across Lookout pass I started losing power big time. The slush and snow was in the intakes and freezing them down to where I only had about 1/2 inch of inside diameter on each line. Summer time they worked great. Winter time I had to be careful. Food for thought guys. :D
 
I did more work today

After listening to you guys I took another look and decided to bomb some more, now I have two 3" ram air tubes feedind the BHAF, I drilled a 4" hole right where the oem wimpey horns were, then I put a flange in there and mounted it tight and ran a 3" pvc straight down and then a 90* on the end, the inlet for ram air is a few inches away from the other one, so with two 3" ram air tubes now I should have plenty of air to the BHAF.

I have some more pics and will post them tomorrow when I get on my home puter.



cheers, Kevin
 
Just wanted to thankyou

For sharing this well thought out and wonderfully constructed modification. Its awesome, I'm sure you'll get a lot of idea's on improving it also. Merv
 
Kevin-



I like the idea of Ram Air, my biggest concern especially if you make a lid is Wy Snow. Blizzards and drifts will clog the pvc in no time. Is is possibly to shorten it up a bit and put the intakes behind a screen in the bumper so it does not become a snow scoop?



-Matt
 
Originally posted by jerryrigg

Kevin-



I like the idea of Ram Air, my biggest concern especially if you make a lid is Wy Snow. Blizzards and drifts will clog the pvc in no time. Is is possibly to shorten it up a bit and put the intakes behind a screen in the bumper so it does not become a snow scoop?



-Matt



You nare correct about plugging up in the winter with snow, I do feal that in my case that in the winter time I will use my (yet to be fabricated) slide gate or ramair closure system, this will eliminate the ramair effect durring colder, wetter months. Optimum efficiency for intake charge air is 50*to 90*. When the tubes are closed off the air will be coming from underhood (preheated) and then in the hot months I will open the ramair inlet to feed the BHAF. I currently feel that my lid idea does need to go away for right now.

I am asking if anyone has an idea of how I can make a slidegate or closure for the inlet ramair tubes that can be activated from the cab ? My thoughts so far are a flap hinged on one side and a pto cable device to operate it, or those 3" slide gates for sewer like on campers, then operate them with a cable from the cab??I would really like a vaccumn operated solinoid job if possible.



This spring everyone will want these, lets prefect it now while we have time!









help me here fellas... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... cheers, Kevin
 
Vacuum operation would be nice, but PTO cable is simple...

Why not get a 3" Rain Cap for stacks... run you about $7-$10.

You just might need to trim the "weight" a little to have it open all the way. Fasten the PTO cable to the top of the PVC and to the weight and your in business. Go chrome if you want and make it look pretty. You can look at some Rain caps and Airflo.com



-Matt
 
Matt, I like the idea of the raincaps for stacks operated by a good pto cable, I think I will shoot for that concept.



Here is a pic of my second ram tube feeder
 
Whitmore,



For your closure's try 12v RV holding tank dump valves. I think they come in 3" and 4" sizes. They could work off a switch in the cab. I think they are available at camping world.



Mike
 
You deserve a Nobel prize for this!

This is going to solve a lot of problems for me. Also, why not flexible tubing. Like a dust collection hose. Don't know how much heat it would tolerate though. Also a dust hood for some wood working tools would make a good scoop to fit under the bumper or wherever.
 
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