My Truck is "making" oil?????

[kcpolk]

When checking the oil on my 2012 last week I noticed it was overfull. It appeared the oil level was just on the dipstick cable (above the plastic tip about, 3/4" above the "SAFE" mark). So either the previous owner overfilled the crankcase OR, possible leaking injector(s) adding fuel to the oil (leaking past the piston rings)? I changed the oil right away and put in the required 12 quarts. Upon doing the oil/filter change and running the truck about 5 miles, I rechecked and noticed the fresh oil still was reading over the "SAFE" zone on my dipstick, but it was at least on the plastic portion of the dip stick but not up to the cable. Hmmmmm. I bought the truck at 25k miles. Now has about 28k. It starts just fine and runs great. No black smoke out the back - like I would think if an injector(s) was leaking? However, on the other hand, I am only getting about 13 MPG around town 17 on the hwy - empty, with no load, EDGE programmer on level 2 (Towing). Some other truck owners say they get better mileage with their trucks. Also, I noticed that the particulate burn seems to kick in every other day or so.... seems to me these facts would point to a leaky injector(s). I'm thinking I'll reset the PCM to "STOCK" this weekend and remove the EDGE programmer. Take it into the dealer for evaluation. What are your thoughts?

Bottom line questions if you'd please:
1) What kind of MPG are you getting?
2) Where is the oil level on your truck just after an oil change? At, above or below the "SAFE" mark?
3) What other symptoms (if any) would indicate a leaky injector?

Thanks for your help!

 

[Dieselnerd]

The trucks will siphon oil out of the filter when parked and it will raise it a little above the full mark. On my current truck and my previous 2nd and 3rd gens the oil would vary about 1/4 inch up or down. When the level is up and you change the filter, the filter will not be full indicating that oil has been siphoned out. Been talked about on the TDR forum many times. I've never seen it higher than about 1/4 inch or so above the safe mark though.

I did have the CP3 pump changed under warranty on my 2005 when it actually leaked fuel into the crankcase. In that case it raised the oil level about 3/4 of an inch before I noticed and took it into the dealer. While the CP3 can cause your problem, it's rare. Usually it's a leaking injector.

If it is an injector, the dealer may try to blame the programmer and not honor the engine warranty.

 

[kcpolk]

Thanks a TON for the info Dieselnerd. I have an appointment with the dealer next week.... I'll post the outcome. Programmer? What programmer? There is no programmer when it goes to the dealer. ;-)

 

[gsbrockman]

Your oil level is increasing due to re-gens. Fuel dilution is a normal part of the re-gen process on a 2007.5 thru 2012 pickup as some of the fuel gets by the rings. Fuel dilution amounts can be upwards of 5%......so 3 gallons of crankcase oil = 384 ozs; 384 ozs. * .05 = 19.2 ozs.....a little over one half quart increase in sump amount.

 

[AH64ID]

Are you just dumping 12qts in? If so that is your problem. Yes it's a 12Qt system but you don't get all the oil out on a change. The 6.7 also has a TSB or a NOTE (don't recall right now) that states that the oil should be drained for at least 30 minutes at the change.

As gsbrockman noted, making oil is what the 6.7 does during regen. The oil change light is based, via an algorithm, on fuel dilution of approx 5% or .6 QTS, which is about 1/4-3/8" on the dipstick.

Programmers are easily traced on 6.7's.

 

[Newsa]

Fuel dilution

 

[Cummins12V98]

I drain my vehicles overnight if at all possible. I did so the first oil change on my 11 and added 12 qts. Drove checked the next day cold on level ground and it was overfull.

So what I did on every oil change after was add 11.5 qts and check the next day and maybe add just a bit.

I never made oil with my 11 and I had two Blackstone tests done and they both came back with less then 1/2 of one percent fuel dilution.

 

[Bob4x4]

Lol the dealer will check for a programmer first thing with a complaint like yours.

 

[Hoefler]

When changing oil in our 6.7's, it needs to be fully up to operating temperature, depending on outside temperature, this can be a 20-30 mile drive. The fill cap and oil filter needs to be removed, and let drain for a minimum of 15 minutes before filling.

 

[DHuffman]

They get overfilled during oil changes. I'm on my third 6.7 and they all act the same. I put 11 quarts in and then check/top off the next morning. Usually only takes another 1/2 quart.

 

[AH64ID]

When changing oil in our 6.7's, it needs to be fully up to operating temperature, depending on outside temperature, this can be a 20-30 mile drive. The fill cap and oil filter needs to be removed, and let drain for a minimum of 15 minutes before filling.

Why does it need to be fully up to operating temp? It was at full temp last time you shut it down right? So all the oil should be in the pan.

Unless you have to move it from it's parking spot to change it, there doesn't seem to be a need to get it hot.

 

[Jim W]

Thanks a TON for the info Dieselnerd. I have an appointment with the dealer next week.... I'll post the outcome. Programmer? What programmer? There is no programmer when it goes to the dealer. ;-)

I am afraid you are mistaken; the ECM will record that a programmer and or tuner was installed on the truck. The ECM on the 6.7L trucks have always recorded the foot print of any electronic device that has been added to the truck. Mad's electronics (Smarty) pointed this out early on when they were selling delete tuners in 2007 for the 6.7L Cummins engine. And according to your signature you have a programmer/tuner on the truck.

Jim W.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Why does it need to be fully up to operating temp? It was at full temp last time you shut it down right? So all the oil should be in the pan.

Unless you have to move it from it's parking spot to change it, there doesn't seem to be a need to get it hot.

The idea behind draining oil from an engine at operating temp is that anything that has settled will be suspended and flow out when the plug is removed.

 

[AH64ID]

The idea behind draining oil from an engine at operating temp is that anything that has settled will be suspended and flow out when the plug is removed.

Shouldn't all of that be in the filter? If it's big enough to fall out and sit on the bottom of the pan it should be big enough to be caught by a filter right?

 

[Cummins12V98]

Shouldn't all of that be in the filter? If it's big enough to fall out and sit on the bottom of the pan it should be big enough to be caught by a filter right?

You can do it anyway you want, that as they say is how they have always done it!

Honestly on newer vehicles it probably does not matter. Letting it drain overnight or draining it cold and waiting 1/2 hour before installing the plug probable does not matter much.

 

[AH64ID]

You can do it anyway you want, that as they say is how they have always done it!

Honestly on newer vehicles it probably does not matter. Letting it drain overnight or draining it cold and waiting 1/2 hour before installing the plug probable does not matter much.

I have always been curious to the reasoning behind it, so it was an honest question and not trying to change how people do it.

I generally have to warm mine up, but that's only because I can't change it where I park it and I know that cold oil takes a long time to drain back to the pan.

 

[AnOldBiker]

For what it's worth, what few mechanics I have trusted over the years told me the best way to change any engine oil is to have it at normal running temp, then shortly after you shut it down, pull the drain plug. The filter catches the debris when running, but you can't tell if the bypass valve has been in the open / part open position or not. So there can be possible debris bypassing the filter. With the oil hot, the debris is suspended in the oil and will drain with the flow. Just a precautionary step for a proper drain. And the comment of minimum of 30 minutes once the plug has been pulled is right. The longer the better doesn't hurt.

In the industry I retired from, it was mandatory when all equipment oil is change out, unless the equipment was damaged, the equipment lube oils will be at running temperature before changing and once drained, let drain for a 'minimum of 2 hours' before starting of the refill procedure. Our mechanical engineering department said this was standard for vehicle engines, steam turbine, reciprocating pumps, any piece of equipment. Done this for so long, it's a habit now.

 

[Hoefler]

If you don't remove the filter and fill cap, oil will remain in the galleys and the head. For it to drain properly, you have to let air in. As far as having it up to temp, this allows the oil to flow freely when draining. Another thing, when an engine starts cold, especially in freezing temps, most engines will have the oil filter bypassed until the engine warms up. Cold oil will not flow through the filter very well at all.

 

[Camperman]

On my 2012, when I did the first oil change, a 12 quart change, the level was above the full mark. I questioned the dealer early on about this. The service manager said to drain, prefill the filter with one quart, and add oil for a total of 11 quarts. Start engine, run a bit. Let sit for 15-20 minutes, recheck. I have found that adding a 1/2 quart more brings the level right to the full mark on the dip stick. I let it drain for 45 minutes to an hour. I now do a 11 1/2 quart change. Been doing this since the 2nd oil change, and no issues.

 

[EDankievitch]

Have your oil checked for fuel. My 2012 used to make oil lots of oil. Dealer tried everything changing out leaking injectors re flashing with all the new up dates. Nothing would work. The computer would say change the oil around 1800 -2200 miles and it would over fill my 15 Qt oil pan. After a year I got the dealer to take it back and I'm very happy with the 2013 they had on the lot... Light duty cycle kills the Non DEF trucks (pre 2013) However my truck use was towing and highway around 550-750 miles a week hardly light use. Best of luck with your truck.