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Near Cardiac event.....$32 quart

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I have a 16 and as with all my vehicles changes every fluid except brake and radiator to Amsoil and added the bigger finned ATF pan and front and rear finned diff covers at 10k (engine oil do at 3k). No problems just flawless performance so far.



You run your AMZ/OIL engine oil ONLY 3K ?????

Here is my report with 15K running AMZ/OIL 15-40 their best stuff.

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Can you save your old oil for me..... :-laf




We have a communication issue here:)! I change out the original oil ENGINE at 3K THEN GO AMSOIL 5-40 new Signature spec out now finally used all of my old stuff up....... Change the rest at 10k (OEM fill) to go to Amsoil. On Amsoil in the engine run 5k change 1Qt and new filter then another 5k then change oil and filter..

Yes it is overkill but who cares it is only money.. The Amsoil Warehouse is only 20 minutes from me. Place my order on the computer (preferred customer) then drive over to pick it up.
 
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I did say "best stuff" but yes it's the signature series NOT the OE. First is my Son's truck at 30K with 15k on the oil and my truck with 30k and 15K on the oil. He runs the AMZ/OIL OE 15-50 and I run the DME I believe or signature Series 15-40. He towed a fair amount but with combined loads of 20-28K and my towing was 33k combined.
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"Best stuff" depends on your use. I mistakenly ran signature series once. Then realized if I wasn't going to run a 30k+ interval, I bought the wrong oil.

OE is really the best if changing according to manufacturer recommendations. It has a better oil to additive ratio. Additives don't lubricate. Oil doesI
 
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If you read both reports my truck's was better all around even with much heavier and more frequent towing. I would say the better oil is just that BETTER.

The OE oil will go the 15k as shown.
 
You would need establish trends, Several OAs for any justified claim.

Cooper generally High on the 1st 30K Miles on any Cummins. The value is the trend in dropping levels of wear and copper.
 
Vavoline synthetic ATF 4 is in my transfer case, and it works. I also have to put my truck in 4WD twice a day, so I probably use 4WD as much as anybody.
 
Borg Warner doesn't recommend any particular fluid. They don't sell Borg Warner fluid either. They say follow manufacturers guide. If it was that sensitive there'd have a recommenided fluid or spec, and tag it on the case, just like Aisin does. The case has no clutches. It's fully mechanical. Gears, bearings, etc. The word on the street is a BW rep said they leave the factory with Dexron in them. When I changed mine I used Dexron 5. No problems for the last 65,000 miles. My2cts.

Agree with this line of thought...

I am using Red Line MTL in the T-case of my 2014 and 2017 Rams, also the G56 trans (when I'm not running MT-90).

Have used/preferred Red Line MTL in Borg-Warner T-cases (and manual trans) since my 1996 F-350, and buy it by the case from a local distributor at a reasonable price.

Your mileage may vary.
 
Agree with this line of thought...

I am using Red Line MTL in the T-case of my 2014 and 2017 Rams, also the G56 trans (when I'm not running MT-90).

Have used/preferred Red Line MTL in Borg-Warner T-cases (and manual trans) since my 1996 F-350, and buy it by the case from a local distributor at a reasonable price.

Your mileage may vary.

Are you concerned at all about redline MTL and MT-90 would (or wouldn't) cause a warranty problem?????

Just curious. Because I want to go this way. But the fact that I have 2 1/2 years left on my max care making me cautious about changing from OEM recommendations
 
Good stuff!

I thought the Calcium was quite low, until I realized that by "best stuff" you meant CK+ stuff, rather than what I would consider to be "best stuff" AME CI+4 15w40 (or 5w30 HDD/10w30 ACD for that matter).

I'm embarrassed to say that I didn't realize you were running a non 12v until I glanced at your signature.
 
When's the last time you heard of a transfer case with lube in it failing?

If you do a search of "Ram transfer case exploding, you will find out some have broken wide open and spilled their lube all over.

They don't know if it was caused by one of the drive shaft joints or something within the transfer case. The transfer case has (appears to have) aluminum casing like the g56, so it may be susceptible to flex.

If there wasn't fluid in the exploding transfer cases, they wouldn't be scratching their heads about it?
 
If you do a search of "Ram transfer case exploding, you will find out some have broken wide open and spilled their lube all over.

They don't know if it was caused by one of the drive shaft joints or something within the transfer case. The transfer case has (appears to have) aluminum casing like the g56, so it may be susceptible to flex.

If there wasn't fluid in the exploding transfer cases, they wouldn't be scratching their heads about it?



Every thread that I have ever read about the NV transfer case "exploding" on one of our trucks has eventually indicated that front DS shaft failure, often at the cardan joint, is the culprit.
 
I see them explode at about the 280-320 Ft , Maybe the 1000-1300HP (2.5/2.6 Class) engine and dragging the 40K LBS sled may have a lot to do with its demise.
 
Good stuff!

I thought the Calcium was quite low, until I realized that by "best stuff" you meant CK+ stuff, rather than what I would consider to be "best stuff" AME CI+4 15w40 (or 5w30 HDD/10w30 ACD for that matter).

I'm embarrassed to say that I didn't realize you were running a non 12v until I glanced at your signature.



I agree the AMZ/OIL 15-40 Diesel Marine non LE is the best. I used MANY gallons over the years in my 12V's.

Run it in Tahoe, DR Brush Mower, Honda 2000 gen and Honda pressure washer.
 
Every thread that I have ever read about the NV transfer case "exploding" on one of our trucks has eventually indicated that front DS shaft failure, often at the cardan joint, is the culprit.

Maybe. But I'm sure It's speculation since all the evidence exploded? So 2 ways to void the warranty on the driveline is to not lube the cardan joint and/ or use the wrong lube????
 
Maybe. But I'm sure It's speculation since all the evidence exploded? So 2 ways to void the warranty on the driveline is to not lube the cardan joint and/ or use the wrong lube????



Not really...the way the housing shatters if the cardan joint is responsible is different then if lack of lube is the culprit.
Lack of, or wrong, lube would show signs of overheating metal, not catastrophic housing failure with no signs of overheating. BIG chunk out of the TC housing connected to the DS joint on most of these failures that I read about is indicative of DS failure, not internal lube failure.

Your last statement about two ways to void the warranty on the TC is correct, though I am sure tat there are other ways as well...LOL/JK!!
 
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