Attention: TDR Forum Junkies Sorry for the novel, but here's the background...
Last year I began the project of collecting parts to do a cummins swap in my 91 chevy V30 dump. I purchased a 97 dodge 5 speed truck that was wrecked. The gear housing actually broke off in the accident, seperating the injection pump from the engine and broke the intake. I looked everything over and visually could not see anything too scary in terms of damage except for the fact that the past owner had began taking stuff apart and didn't know what he was doing. The truck only had about 90K on it before the accident. I was assured the truck had been kept covered after the accident and the engine couldn't have gotten any water in it while sitting. I know the engine was protected after I got it home. Fast forward a year later, I have collected all the parts for repair and progress forward.
A few days ago I strip the motor down to the block and head. I can hear a gross amount of leak by coming out of the valves on both the intake side and exhaust side as I bar the engine by hand. I decided to pull the head, something just wasn't right.....
#@$%!
The motor clearly was left uncovered after the accident. There was light rust on the very top of cylinder #6. I could still the cross hatch marks on all of the cylinders. Now I know this isn't the right thing to do, but in a act of desperation I dropped the piston to the bottom of the bore and lightly honed the upper part of the cylinder. It cleaned up nicely although I can still see where the marks were. I am fairly certain once the motor runs a while you won't be able to tell the difference. I would be suprised if more than . 001" was removed.
My biggest concern is the valves. I pulled a few of them out of the head. There was clearly standing water on a couple of them. I lapped the ones I have pulled with coarse then fine lapping compound. They seem okay but am I taking too much of a chance? I have done this for years on gas motors and gm diesels with no issues but this is a different animal. So far the seats are not pitted nor are the valves, just general junk built up on the surfaces.
I have checked the surface of the head with 12" precision edge, it appears perfectly flat. I am going to try and dig up a 36" edge on Monday.
Should I send the head out? This project has quickly become a money pit, and I have never heard the motor run, who knows what else will be wrong next. I know I got a good deal on the smashed truck and should complain but little things like finding the wires ripped out of the fuel solenoid are higly discouraging.
How much should a head milling and good valve job cost? I already planned on buying 12 60# valve springs. My target HP is around 450. The truck will be used to haul and tow. The general mod plans were as follows:
Are head studs worth the $500? A new head is $650, is this a better path? Maybe it's time to pull the plug all together. :{ Thanks for the advise.
Mike
Last year I began the project of collecting parts to do a cummins swap in my 91 chevy V30 dump. I purchased a 97 dodge 5 speed truck that was wrecked. The gear housing actually broke off in the accident, seperating the injection pump from the engine and broke the intake. I looked everything over and visually could not see anything too scary in terms of damage except for the fact that the past owner had began taking stuff apart and didn't know what he was doing. The truck only had about 90K on it before the accident. I was assured the truck had been kept covered after the accident and the engine couldn't have gotten any water in it while sitting. I know the engine was protected after I got it home. Fast forward a year later, I have collected all the parts for repair and progress forward.
A few days ago I strip the motor down to the block and head. I can hear a gross amount of leak by coming out of the valves on both the intake side and exhaust side as I bar the engine by hand. I decided to pull the head, something just wasn't right.....
#@$%!
The motor clearly was left uncovered after the accident. There was light rust on the very top of cylinder #6. I could still the cross hatch marks on all of the cylinders. Now I know this isn't the right thing to do, but in a act of desperation I dropped the piston to the bottom of the bore and lightly honed the upper part of the cylinder. It cleaned up nicely although I can still see where the marks were. I am fairly certain once the motor runs a while you won't be able to tell the difference. I would be suprised if more than . 001" was removed.
My biggest concern is the valves. I pulled a few of them out of the head. There was clearly standing water on a couple of them. I lapped the ones I have pulled with coarse then fine lapping compound. They seem okay but am I taking too much of a chance? I have done this for years on gas motors and gm diesels with no issues but this is a different animal. So far the seats are not pitted nor are the valves, just general junk built up on the surfaces.
I have checked the surface of the head with 12" precision edge, it appears perfectly flat. I am going to try and dig up a 36" edge on Monday.
Should I send the head out? This project has quickly become a money pit, and I have never heard the motor run, who knows what else will be wrong next. I know I got a good deal on the smashed truck and should complain but little things like finding the wires ripped out of the fuel solenoid are higly discouraging.
How much should a head milling and good valve job cost? I already planned on buying 12 60# valve springs. My target HP is around 450. The truck will be used to haul and tow. The general mod plans were as follows:
- 215 HP bosche injection pump
- #10 fuel plate
- 370 injectors
- single turbo, haven't decided on which one yet
- 4" exhaust
- AFE stage 2 air filter
- 3k GSK
- 17. 5 degress of timing
- . 010 oversized head gasket
Are head studs worth the $500? A new head is $650, is this a better path? Maybe it's time to pull the plug all together. :{ Thanks for the advise.
Mike
