Courtesy of the main man JSteiger who has been a huge help with my fuel pressure gauge install (haven't done it yet).
Here's the major parts list:
*Geno's - tapped banjo bolt and washers - (#BF-KIT-32: comes with 2 tapped bolts, 1 regular bolt, 10 washers, but only used 1 bolt and 2 washers)
*Geno's - Di-pricol gauge w/ isolator, nylon tubing, compression fittings, and 1/4"NPT to 1/8"NPT bushings - (#DI-FPG-30)
*Geno's - steering pod mount - (#GM-DG-1501)
*Summit Racing - Autometer 4' braided 4AN tubing kit - (#ATM-3229: comes with 4AN tubing plus adapters to NPT - in hindsight I should have used 3' kit)
*Summit Racing - Aeroquip 4AN male to 1/8" MPT 45-degree elbow (#AER-FBM2582)
*Carquest - 1/8" MPT to 1/8" compression fittings (2 @ straight for "just-in- case" & 1 @ 90-degrees for hood clearance)
*Carquest - 6' of 3/16" windshield washer tubing
*McMaster - 1/8" needle valve, 1 end female other end male - (#7833K83: you can get brass ones from a well equipped hardware store for about $5, but could not find any locally after searching for a few days so I ordered this $19 steel valve)
At the CP3:
When you undo the bolt that holds the feed to the CP3 down, you will see that the bolt is hollow through its diameter near the head. The fuel line itself will look like a hollow eyebolt without the threads. Between the bolt head and the fuel line is a sealing washer; between the fuel line and the CP3 housing is another sealing washer. Don't reuse these washers; use new ones that come with the banjo bolt kit above.
In the Geno's kit you will a large hex headed banjo bolt. At the top of this head, you will find it tapped for 1/8" NPT.
Take the tapped banjo bolt and with 2 new washers install the fuel line back onto the CP3. DO NOT USE LOTS OF TORQUE AS PER THE KIT INSTRUCTIONS AS THE TAPPING MAKES THE BOLT WEAKER UNDER SHEAR. I just installed it with "palm force" without any body weight behind it. Even less because you can always tighten later if there are leaks.
With sealant on the male needle vale threads attach it to the tapped bolt. I held the banjo bolt with a wrench while tightening the needle valve to prevent inadvertent torquing of the tapped bolt.
Then take the 1/8" male NPT to -4AN adapter, apply sealant to the pipe threads only and install onto the needle valve while holding the needle valve still with a wrench to further prevent inadvertent torquing of the banjo bolt underneath.
AN fittings require no sealant at all and they just have to be snug. With this in mind attach the stainless steel braided hose.
Connection to the isolator (Use sealant on all NPT fittings only):
If you purchased the items that I listed in the parts list you will have more than enough fittings to adapt the -4AN tube to the isolator, especially between the fittings that came with the gauge/isolator and the Autometer tube kit. If I recall, the isolator is 1/4" female NPT so you would need to go 1/4" FPT to 1/8" NPT to -4AN.
Isolator to gauge:
Fill the gauge side of the isolator with antifreeze solution per the instructions. Adapt 1/4" female NPT at isolator, then 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT with the reducing bushing from the isolator kit. I then used a 90* 1/8" NPT to 1/8" compression adaptor for hood clearance. If you use a straight adapter the tubing would point straight up then you would have to bend it down to go through the firewall. However, when you close the hood, it will hit the tubing so that's why I used the 90* fitting.
I inserted the 1/8" nylon gauge tubing into 3/16" windshield washer tubing for protection against abrasion and then inserted this through the firewall. Connect the nylon tubing to the compression fitting at the isolator.
For any distance shorter than 6 feet the instructions said you do not need antifreeze solution. Of course I didn't read the instructions and wasted lots of time on trying to fill the tubing with antifreeze. I managed to spill antifreeze everywhere too before I read the instructions. In the end I have half the tubing filled with antifreeze. Connect tubing to the gauge.
The rest is wiring!
If you want I can easily go outside while it is still light out and take pictures. I think I also have a spare tapped banjo bolt as well as the regular banjo bolt kicking around if you want me to take a picture of it to email you.
If you lay everything out on the table first it will be a lot easier to see what I just wrote.
Hope this helps!
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Thanks!
