Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) need oil pan help

[SRehberg]

Thanks for the infor regarding the numbers on the pan, I just hate to pay the dealer his outrageous price.



To drill the drain, I assume it happens prior to installing, otherwise how can it be drilled? Do you crank it in first, mark the locations, then drill it/reinstall it?



The size of the holes; around 1/8" or so?



Thanks

 

[P Madrid]

Clean the rust and treat the area. If the rust has made a hole, there are epoxies that will repair small areas and seal. The key to using epoxies is to have the right mixture and cleanliness of the area been apply to.



The drain valve needs to be drill before installing. The size of the holes depends on the thickness of the wall as to not weaken it. drill in the drain area, the section between the flange and the treads.

 

[SRehberg]

Thanks Pablo, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[JSmith]

Guys I have had the most problems

I think I have had more problems with this oil drip issue thatn most. To cut to the chase I got my hands on a piece of Garlock( used for high temp gaskets). I cut out a gasket and put this on with a new stock plug. It did not leak "ONE" drop.







this is an old post on the subject.



Up date on oil pan leak

As stated in earlier posts I have had oil pan leaks from the drain plug. The short term fix, I cut a gasket from garlock and this stopped the oil leak. But I still had the factory oil drain plug. Try as I might I could not stop the oil leak ( until the garlock). I posted on the TDR and also spoke to Geno`s. I had a Super Plugnever installed it (bad press). I ordered a different plug from Geno`s. Got the plug that has the drain tube that screws into the plug to drain the oil. I installed the plug on Saturday (07/12) so far no oil leak. Question, has anyone lost the screw on cap?





__________________

 

[Deezul1]

Just heads up on after market drain plugs. P Madrid posted a pic of the stock plug and the thick flanged plug that is available from Geno's. I have the thick flanged plug in my truck and 1500 miles after the initial install it backed 3/4 of the way and I lost all my oil. The engine didnt sustain any obvious damage but the turbo bearings are trash. The plug was torqued by me to 45ft/lbs. I did not buy it from Geno's but from the manufacturer direct at May Madness. If you have one of these or plan to get one I recomend re-torquing after 500 miles until you are sure it isnt a problem. Two other people I know of had the same trouble.

 

[illflem]

If it's the "Super-Plug" you are speaking of Geno's quit selling them till the problem was resolved and was offering refunds.

The manufacturer has since figured out the original didn't have the right threads and changed them. One member here did lose an engine after his plug fell out.

 

[PGaither]

Sounds like the gasket made of Garlock is the safest bet..... where do I get a piece of Garlock? I don't want to loose all my oil! Oo.

 

[radixr]

If and when you are drilling drain holes in an aftermarket oil pan drain valve, you don't need to worry about hole alignment if you make a groove all the way around the plug where you are drilling the holes. I used a 1/8" drill and made four holes roughly equally-spaced.



Before I installed the plug, I made sure there was no oil left in the pan. Then I installed the plug and poured a small, measured amount of clean oil in the engine. I let it sit overnight and the amount of oil that came out was clean and nearly equal to what I poured in. The holes work!Oo. Oo.

 

[JSmith]

PGaither

I used to work in the oilfields and Garlock was common. Places that deal with gasket material, high pressure steam, high temp fluids and such should be able to help you. If not PM me and I`ll do what I can.

 

[PGaither]

Thanks JSmith, I'll check arround & see if I can find some Garlock, and let you know either way... .

 

[SRehberg]

Is the garlock a gasket type material in sheets or what type of material is it? Thanks

 

[P Madrid]

There is no need to make a grove around the drilled holes, on the oil drain valve, the oil pan tread insert has one already. The grove on the drain plugs is to allow it to flow easier out of the grove in the oil pan.



I too was concern about loosing a drain plug but the one that was backing out was a different one. The HD drain plug on the picture is on several off-road vehicles and the torque remain the same trough-out its test period.



Pablo

 

[JSmith]

Garlock is in sheets, what I used is blue, ??? 1/8" thick???. I got a piece from a mechanic. And cut it to fit tight around the drain plug. The one gasket I used did not leak, nor did it backout. I have no idea what Garlock costs. I do know that scrap pieces should not be hard to get. In my area valve shops will cut the Garlock to suit your needs. I was going to have 20 or 30 madeup for my own personal use.

 

[pdxkid]

bump

this is a good one, very timely for me as I just changed my oil, got a new plug and "torqued" it by feel (tight) and it drips ... .

drippin my $33 11qts out on the ground. has anyone experienced this lately? I bought another new plug and seal and torque wrench and plan to redo tomorrow...

 

[SRath]

"... drippin my $33 11qts out on the ground. "



Just what kind of generic lawnmower oil are you using?!!



I'm trying to picture what you guys are calling a "taper". Is it like the drain hole is shoved in?



Would welding an old plug or bolt of the same thread to a slide hammer and pulling the drain hole out a bit help?

 

[pdxkid]

SRath, got some delo 15w40 at costco for about $33/3 gal box. pretty good deal as the local parts stores have it for around $45/3 gal box. I wish I knew the exact problem with my leak, but since i'm kinda dense, I may never know I'm scared to try the new plug and seal, has anyone had this problem lately and found the best solution?

 

[SRath]

You got a good deal on that oil!

 

[Driftwood Ram]

You can add one more to the "leaking drain plug group". I was advised I should get a new washer when Merlon changed the oil for me in Lake Havasu City so I went to the dealer and paid the big $$$$ for a new one and guess what, IT LEAKS!!!

So I ordered metal backed ones from Kragen and am going to try one tomorrow. I might just put the old one back on if I can not find another solution. I bet the old one is the original that came with the truck. It is metal/rubber and still has some of the black paint on it like the pan and drain plug.

 

[Driftwood Ram]

Put 1 gallon of oil back in last night and checked this morning and no leak!! Filled her up and ran for a few minutes and still no leak so I am going to say mine is good. I used this drain plug gasket:

Part Detail at CSK Auto

 

[GAmes]

If you want dripless changes drop a few $$ and get one of these 'FINGER TOUCH' OIL DRAIN VALVE - 22MM ('94-'01 DODGE)-Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories – Geno’s Garage



I have done over 100 oil changes since installing one with no drips yet. If you recall there was a hint to drill the threads. After the oil drains look at the threads in the pan. You will see four holes that allow all the oil to drain. Mark the location of these holes on the bottom of the pan. Install the new drain valve and torque it down. Mark the plug to corrospond to the holes and remove it. Cross drill the threads of the new plug and reinstall. You will never have to remove it again.