Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need Radiator, sick of searching

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New transmission!!!!!!!

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Syntorque 1/2 Gal. Cheap

Status
Not open for further replies.
OK, I'm sick of searching this site and the web for a new radiator for my '97.

I want to SEE what the radiator looks like and have a DESCRIPTION of the radiator as well on the website (i. e. 2 or 3 row fins and plastic/metal tanks).



Can someone please direct me to a website (or recommend a decent replacement) that will provide the above information and is easy to order from. I'm going nuts looking at all the sites out there with no-pictures and no-descriptions.



Thanks.
 
Go see your local NAPA guy, they carry Modine brand radiators and they are a quality product-the one for my truck is going to run me 550. 00, so just be ready for sticker shock.
 
Call your local autoxone.



I did, and they had a radiator in stock for my 97. it was the same exact radiator that rockauto.com had for 280 bucks.



Thye price matched it as close as they could. I ended up with a brand new radiaotr, that was an exact replacement, for 300 bucks in my hands that night.
 
I got one for my wifes Grand Cherokee for about $80. 00 from 1 800 radiator.

By far the cheapest. They wanted over $300 locally.
 
Well NAPA usually has good stuff, this will be the 3rd radiator for this truck. All the fins on the inside (fan side) have all but disintagrated ... and it was an expensive metal tank, copper core radiator!!!.



Are the NAPA radiators aluminum with plastic tanks or metal tanks?
 
I guess you've tried ebay, but this looks like a good one



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODG...33602QQitemZ8015792366QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW



sez at the bottom limited lifetime warranty. If your truck is munchin rads, mebe this is a good option. And if your last was a copper and didnt last, mebe a plastic could last longer. I assume its leaking from the exchanger and not the end tanks? If the fins are getting munched like that, I would look into whats corroding them. Do they use a lot of salt up there in NH? or something else? I know the new liquid salt they use a lot on highways really tears stuff up, and it doesnt wash off easily. Might want to look into a salt neutralizer from a marine store. .



Good luck



-j
 
Yes Autozone has good prices on parts, but I had an issue getting a radiator that fit my father in laws truck-the automatic transmission cooler lines had the wrong size fittings-tried 3 radiators all came the same-ordered one from NAPA fit right the first time.
 
JSienkowski said:
Yes Autozone has good prices on parts, but I had an issue getting a radiator that fit my father in laws truck-the automatic transmission cooler lines had the wrong size fittings-tried 3 radiators all came the same-ordered one from NAPA fit right the first time.





Was that on a gasser? CTDs have an external cooler, so no worries about tappings on the rad.



-j
 
i work for a radiator shop. i can get you an oem radiator for about 300. i can have it shipped to you if you want to get one.


mark
 
as a caveat, i did have to do a small mod on the rad I got from autozone.



the fill upper neck on the rad was about 1/4" longer, and it made it hard to get the w/w fluid bottle back on.



I bombed the mounting bracket a bit by making the slot the w/w reservoir slides into a wee bit deeper, and it slid right on.



For me, it was a minor mod, and it was worth saving a couple hundred bucks
 
tp0d said:
I guess you've tried ebay, but this looks like a good one



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODG...33602QQitemZ8015792366QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW



sez at the bottom limited lifetime warranty. If your truck is munchin rads, mebe this is a good option. And if your last was a copper and didnt last, mebe a plastic could last longer. I assume its leaking from the exchanger and not the end tanks? If the fins are getting munched like that, I would look into whats corroding them. Do they use a lot of salt up there in NH? or something else? I know the new liquid salt they use a lot on highways really tears stuff up, and it doesnt wash off easily. Might want to look into a salt neutralizer from a marine store. .



Good luck



-j



Yes NH uses a TON of salt all winter long (Oct - Apr). This is what eats the rads as well as the rest of the truck (constantly fighting a loosing battle with rust everywhere on the truck).

I have never bought anything on Ebay before ... all I have ever heard about Ebay was horror stories of people getting ripped off. I hate to spend over $500 at NAPA since this probably won't be the last radiator. I guess I could try it, looks like a good price.

Thanks for the info.
 
wtfd6 said:
i work for a radiator shop. i can get you an oem radiator for about 300. i can have it shipped to you if you want to get one.





mark



Mark, what is your shops name? Are your rads aluminum or copper? Plastic or metal tanks? Since in NH (like in Ohio) there is a lot of road salt in the winter. Would an aluminum and plastic tanks be best?



How dificult is it to install the rad. I've never done one ... I seem to be replacing something on the truck every month.



Let me know ... THANKS Mark.
 
it should be plastic and aluminum. if that is what was in it originally. the warehouse we use has quality stuff with lifetime warranty. i can have them actually pull it out and make sure it is plastic/aluminum on monday. the company i work for is called Earl Bros transmission and auto repair. we have six local stores. one location has four shops in one. service, radiator, trans r&r, and trans rebuild facility. i highly recommend the radiators we install. never had a problem. my number is in my profile if you would like to call me.


mark
 
Replacing the rad is pretty straight forward. I havent done one on a CTD but Ive changed one on a jeep cherokee. Theres a steel crossmember that comes up and off with a few bolts, then remove hoses and capture fluid. The rad sits in thick rubber grommets at the base, and there may or may not be a slide on either side for alignment.



Biggest problem is gettin all the air purged. Theres a small loop hose by the thermostat housing that I think you can loosen while filling to help get some air out. I havent had the pleasure of working on my coolant system yet heh... But I will be replacing my water pump this year, so yay! heh



As for ebay, I have been buying and selling there since 98. Mainly look at the feedback of the seller, and if he's over 95% with at least a couple hundred feedbacks, you should be fine. Sign up with Paypal.com and they have a money back policy for a few bucks on top of the total.



good luck



-j
 
oh yes, like tpod said it is pretty easy to do a radiator. if you have the tools to remove the fan it is even easier. the washer bottle and overflow bottles remove easily with a screwdriver to pry them out just far enough to bypass the tabs that hold them in. with the shroud out of the way it is the easiest to get the lower hose off.


mark
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top