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Just ordered a new clutch for my truck, sad thing I didn't need one, but my throwout bearing came apart. I ordered the south bend 1947-okhd, also ordered their hydro's. I hope it is as good as I have heard. Anyone have any thoughts?
 
That will be a great replacement clutch for your truck. South Bend Clutch has long been a company that stands behind what they sell. A lot of guys on the site have used their clutches. I have the CON-OFE in my 2007 with 60,000 miles on it. I am going to switch to what you are putting in your truck for a little lighter pressure plate and a smoother clutch.
 
Just took a south bend outta my 05 nv5600, hated it ! , to noisy, hard shifting, replaced with a dual disk Valair , man is it night and day difference, smoother shifting and zero gear roll over noise.
 
Just took a south bend outta my 05 nv5600, hated it ! , to noisy, hard shifting, replaced with a dual disk Valair , man is it night and day difference, smoother shifting and zero gear roll over noise.
What model of South Bend did you pull out? What Valair DD did you use?
 
3250 DD south bend replaced it with the valair dual disk towing ( organic) and not the quite version either.
[h=1]NMU70NV56DDSN-ORG[/h]
 
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Just took a south bend outta my 05 nv5600, hated it ! , to noisy, hard shifting, replaced with a dual disk Valair , man is it night and day difference, smoother shifting and zero gear roll over noise.
Glad it's working out.
My friend's got the quiet 3250 DD in his NV5600. I found it to be a bit slower shifting but pretty smooth and nowhere near the gear noise my G-56 makes with a single disc.
 
You'll be happy with that clutch.
Not as sure about the HD hyd's. I bought a HD system that was all steel, , reservoir, hoses, and it transferred a tremendous amount of NVH through the pedal. I ended up taking it back off and replacing it with a new OEM unit. There was no pedal effort difference between them.

YMMV!

Scott
 
I suggest having a new return spring on hand. It is a $5 part that no brick and morter has in stock when you need it. If you have to order one it will add a day to your replacement. ( Don't ask me how I know )

I have been really liking mine this past year. Smooth engagement, a bit more pedal pressure, but tows better than stock. Love the extra confidence. I ordered the flywheel as well.
 
Just took a south bend outta my 05 nv5600, hated it ! , to noisy, hard shifting, replaced with a dual disk Valair , man is it night and day difference, smoother shifting and zero gear roll over noise.
I'm a big fan of the personal experiance with SBC, it's nice to sit and talk transmissions and clutches with Peter in person. My SDD 3250 has been great so far with 30K miles. However your claim of no rollover noise with a dual disk clutch is very interesting, is there a guarantee or claim the clutch suppresses the gear rollover noise?
 
The only clutch I can compare my SDD 3250 is the OEM clutch with the DMF. But mine is not that noisy, it's the gear rollover noise that bugs the hell out of me. If Valair would garrantee the elimination of the gear rollover noise, I'd buy it when I convert my G56 to the NV5600.
 
I recommend replacing the needle bearing with a ball bearing (sealed), I'm getting ready to spend 2500 on my 5600 due to this 10cent part failing and destroying the input shaft,, dye I plan to buy the same sb organic clutch with the flywheel
 
The clutch I ordered has the sealed bearing in the flywheel.
I recommend replacing the needle bearing with a ball bearing (sealed), I'm getting ready to spend 2500 on my 5600 due to this 10cent part failing and destroying the input shaft,, dye I plan to buy the same sb organic clutch with the flywheel
 
I replaced my clutch in sig truck this spring with the SB organic HDkit. I also replaced flywheel which came with the HD bearing. (Original flywheel was almost perfect but cost and time restraints to buy and install new pilot bearing versus buying flywheel ready to roll amounted to less than 75.00)

I bought new OEM hydraulics, as well as a new clutch arm( the dimples were worn flat and life of new release bearing would have been compromised)

My goal was have the new clutch etc last at least as long as the original (225K miles).
The orig clutch material was still 70% but springs were showing signs of wear. The reason for the job was pilot bearing. In my case, I caught it in my yard(very lucky)and there was no damage done to input shaft nose.

The SBC works well, however the pedal is a fair bit more heavy than the stock clutch was. If I did a lot of city driving, it would become an issue for me.
 
I'm just waiting on the weather to coperate where I can get it fixed, I have contimplated putting a grease zerk in the t/o bearing on a 1/4" hose and running it through a small hole in the bell housing so it can be greased. Any thoughts? I used to work for a major class 8 truck builder years ago and all of them had greasable t/o bearings.
 
If it works, great, but don't grease the bearing very often, and prime the grease line so you can guaranty that the first pump of the grease gun will refill the bearing. If it gets over greased, your going to be replacing a clutch as soon as the T/O bearing flings the grease around inside the bell housing. With all of the clutches I've replaced over the years, Pilot, T/O bearing and Flywheel were replaced, unless the F/W could be resurfaced. Its just the nature of the beast, to have to deal with the T/O bearing. I had a 73 Ford Capri that specked out a T/O bearing with a plastic housing, it lasted 3 months with the proper free travel. I found the same T/O bearing with a metal housing after that, at least I didn't have to replace the other components.
 
The grease line was just to grease the slider part of the throw out bearing. You can imagine how many times we clutched a UPS truck in just one day. We averaged 150 delivery stops and up to 40 pick up stops.
 
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