New pusher pump installed

[GotDodge]

Finally got my pump and filter in last weekend.

I have to much pressure now so now I'm going to bypass the lift pump. Let you no

how my pressure is after that.

 

[RJOL]

Keep us posted on your results... Some of us have considered adding a pusher, but have some concerns about to much pressure to the VP44...

 

[Cobra]

pusher pump

GOTDODGE,



You didn't say what your pressure was with pusher and oem lift.

How low was your pressure before adding the pusher? How many miles are on your truck?

Apparently you are not concerned with the warranty.

 

[Jetpilot]

Which pusher pump setup did you install? The setup looks real nice!

 

[GotDodge]

Ok. I have a 15psi gauge and it is really peged. My pressure was at 9psi at idle 6psi at 55 and 3psi at wot. This is a new stock cummings pump. If things get to the point that my warranty needs to be used I no my legal writes. I have 46,000miles on my truck. The filter head is a fleetguard

p/n 014278400S. Its used on the big rigs. I have been looking into a pressure regulator with a bye pass back to the take. This is one that I have found.







A compact design bypass regulator for carbureted fuel systems with or without nitrous oxide, turbos or superchargers. The regulator's base pressure is adjustable from 3 to 20 PSI but the optional high pressure spring (included) increases the range from 20 to 65 PSI.



Fuel pressure will rise on a 1:1 ratio when referencing boost

3/8'' NPT inlet and outlet fittings

Alcohol compatible

CNC-machined from 6061-T651 billet aluminum

 

[CoastyAV8R]

How did you hook it in to the wiring harness? Does the pusher pump come on automatically like the stocker or do you have a switch for it? I am looking at something like this, but I'm unsure if splicing into the existing wiring is the way to do it.



Pat

 

[csutton7]

that's the regulator I've been using for 6 mos and it's been doing the job with my monster pump---blew apart Mallory regulator---



I think I'd get a different guage to check and see what this thing is really pumping out--if it's a Cummins part and made for our trucks I don't believe you're in serious trouble pressure wise, but you never know----chris

 

[Snow man]

Im running what looks to be the same pusher pump,my pressure was 11-12psi at idle stock,original lift pump with 57K on it. Adding the pusher,it jumped it up to 19 at idle,then after a few days the pressure came down to 17 psi,which is where it stays now. WHen i bought mine (from enterprose engine) I asked about a regulator,and i was told that it wasnt needed with this pump,and that they had been using it for a few years,and no one has had an injection pump problem because of it.

 

[Neal Cassady]

Pusher Pump In

I finished up putting in my pusher pump early this week. No digi camera so I won't have pictures for a while.



Enterprise kit and I used an Earls 35 micron filter in front of the pump.



Old readings at around 16K, which had been going down for the past 4 to 6 weeks, were around 11/12 idle and around 10 cruising down the road. I could pull it down to around 5/6 and it was slow to recover after WOT.



Now I idle at 16/17 cold and cruise at around 16, I can pull it down a few pounds at WOT but it pops right back to where it was. Going to measure the output from the sender and add resistance to put the indicator back on the scale.



If you are going to install another pump, buy the harness from Cummins and splice into + wire there, that eliminates the hardest part of the job and preserves your factory harness.



Only downside so far, it sounds like an airplane is flying along with the truck, the pusher buzzes a little. I used some old rubber mat between the mount and the frame to quiet things down. I added extra washers where the pump mounts to the bracket to take up some of the slop below the rubber bushings, that may be making the buzz a little more audible.



Dave

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

Does anyone see a problem with mounting two pumps right next to each other on the frame down by the tank versus having one there and the other on the engine? I already have my lift pump on the frame and would like to leave it there.



Also, what are the prefilter options? Part numbers? Can you get an Earl filter that has barb fittings? I tried a Prolator(I believe) screen filter and it dropped my WOT pressures from 8 down to 4 psi, so I took it out.



Thanks,

Dan

 

[redneckdr]

pusher

i like the setup. i had a pusher in for awhile, but took it back out because it was not a high enough flow pump. my pressure at WFO dropped to 2-3 PSI. without the pusher my pressure at WFO is never lower than 5 PSI. i have bought a filter and am waiting for the "perfect" pusher to float to the top. the filter base i bought is for a fleetguard fuel filter which has a water drain in the bottomn. can't remember the p/n's. if anybody wants 'em, i can look at 'em and post the #'s

 

[Ray Torresdal]

filter

Did you bypass the factory filter? Is the added filter pre- or post pump? I'm ready to do the same thing, and have a second pump laying in the cab. Ray

 

[Neal Cassady]

More Pre Filter

Don't now if the filter question was directed at me, but here is some more info on the filter I used.



I mounted my filter between the fuel tank and the pusher pump. 35 micron is relatively porous, I think the secondary filter in the canister filters down to below 10 microns.



Earls part# 230106



35 micron sintered bronze cleanable filter element. Looks like the filter in the old Q jet carbs, shaped like a thimble.



230106 has -6AN male fittings on each end. 230108 is the same filter with -8AN fittings.



Earls also has filter 230206 and 230208. They are the same filters with a stainless steel screen filter material. No one, not even Earls, had any filtration specs on the screen element. I have seen the screens in other applications and it looks like the screen built into the Carter pumps.



I was a little worried about the 230106 being too restrictive, doesn't seem to be a problem at this point. Also worried about it clogging up quickly, time will tell, although it is pretty easy to service. I bought a replacement element so I could just pop in a clean one while the dirty one soaks in the parts cleaner. In any event the prefilter should allow a few more miles on the secondary filter.



Here is an image of the filter. Filter is about 3. 5" long and about 1" in diameter.







Dave

 

[Snow man]

Dave,my pump cant be heard while the engine is running unless your laying under the truck. When i was mounting mine,I used some left over sway bar end link bushing kits i had at the shop,I opend the holes up in the frame,so the bolts didnt touch metal anywhere,the step in the bushing slipped right in the hole,I used a bushing,and the big washer inside the frame,and another between the frame,and pump bracket,then tightened the wholee thing together,its sturdy,yet totallt isolated,so no vibration can be directly transmitted to the rame rail. It seems to work great,and i think the bolts need to be isolated too,not just the pump,so this does both in one shot. Youll need some long 5/16 bolts,and lock nuts,but its well worth it,IMO. I can get my pressure down to 3 psi,on level 5 on the comp. It used to go to zero on level 3, Redneck, if you pulled out your pusher,what are you running now to get 5 psi?Id like to know. I was wondering if just relocating my stock pump would give me the same pressures as this 2 pump combo.

 

[GotDodge]

Csutton7 Hi! Were did you hock up the bypass line to, on the tank?



CoastyAV8R Hi! You need to use a relay. Use the hot wire of the pump to switch your relay on. You can't use a switch. Because the pump will not let fuel flow threw win it is not runing.

 

[redneckdr]

pump

snow man, i'll try to keep this short. i put in a diaphragm pump pusher before i could get the gauges in, so didn't know what my pressures were. my reasoning isn't worth posting. when i got the gauges in, i was obviously disappointed in the WOT pressure. i bypassed the pusher, and got the above pressures with the OEM in the stock location. that's where it stands for now. i believe in the pusher feeding the OEM in the stock location idea, and will put in a pusher again when i can decide on a pump. i firmly believe that if i use a pusher with a good prepusher filter, the OEM life will be lengthened. it just makes sense!!

 

[redneckdr]

wiring

got dodge, you posted whilst i was typing. i am not being argumentative, but i wired my pusher with a switch when i had it in. didn't tie in to the OEM pump harness. with the OEM pump not running, i could switch the pusher on and push fuel out at the filter. i did this repeatedly, so in at least some pumps, fuel can be pushed through the OEM pump. that is part of my reasoning for using a pusher. IF the OEM dies, it MIGHT block the line. if it didn't, i could "limp" home on the pusher. if it did block the line. i'd be dead. hopefully with a FP gauge, i could anticipate failure of either pump??

 

[Neal Cassady]

No Access

Snow Man,



I wanted to go that route instead of the self-tapping bolts but I don't have easy access to the rear of the frame section where I mounted my pump, my install is a little longer than most with the inline filter, adapters and fittings. The pump is mounted just behind the drivers seat, a little more forward than I wanted but thats where I could fit it.



I think my Carter pusher is just a little loud, you can hear it outside the truck when it is running as well inside the truck. It really doesn't bother me, if the truck was a gasser it would be annoying. I am going to run it a little with the prefilter element removed to see if the filter is making the pump work harder.



Dave

 

[Snow man]

Redneck,thank you for the response,I think it would help to know your hp level,i didnt have any problems with FP until i went past level 2 on the comp,with DD3's. So i figure the stock setup is good if you have an ez,and dd3's. I had 4psi wot on level 1on the comp,same as an EZ. I am stil on my original lift pump with 57k on it,im afraid to replace it,since it still works fine. I have a short bed,4x4 which makes mounting the pump a little tight,there's not much room to work in there,and still get the pump close to the tank.

 

[redneckdr]

hp

snow man, sorry, i just realized i edited my sig awhile back. i'm still running stock. i'm planning on a Raptor or a Comp in the future. may never do any more. i don't want to have to spend the $$ to upgrade the transmission. i may or may not ever hook up the pump wire. also may or more likely not upgrade injectors. it's a daily driver, and i don't want to mess around with reliability. i have been wanting to get the fuel delivery issues solved to my liking before the comp... .