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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission New to this forum. Need some advice on a good tow performance upgrade!

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I would be surprised if the Bully Dog module didn't have a boost fooler. If it added fuel and no more boost, then it would just be good for rolling coal and not much use as a power/torque adder since you must have the air available to burn the extra fuel that it presumably adds.

By the same token, boost foolers used to be available (back in my 2nd gen days) as a standalone item. The 33-34 PSIG boost figures I mentioned were with the DD2 injectors - you'd not see anything approaching that with stock injectors, but IIRC, when I added the EZ and prior to my adding the injectors, I saw boost levels in the mid to upper 20s.

Rusty
 
Is it possible that my waste gate isn't fully closing? That's the only explanation I can come up with. Another forum had a guy on there saying he ran a torque dog and a boost elbow. He didn't say what boost levels he was at by restricting the flow to the wastegate but, if my wastegate isn't closing all the way then I would think that the elbow would have some effect (ie-explains why the boost levels changes from 19-20 to 22-24). But if it was fully closed to begin with and restricting the flow with elbow should bring in on up higher than levels I'm seeing.
 
I read somewhere earlier that ECM will defuel at 22-24psi unless you boost fool. Makes me wonder if the Torque Dog Module doesn't truly boost fool. Maybe it fools computer to avoid the popping a code but doesn't disable computer from a defuel at 22-24psi. I'll find out tommorow. I just ordered an EZ overnight from Throroughbred Diesel. I'll give it a try and see if it fools correctly and my boost reads a little higher due to boost elbow.
 
Well, I tested my boost gauge just to be safe and it works. I pinched off the wastegate tube and still only managed 22lbs boost.
I have been intermittently smelling unburnt diesel under the hood so I thought while I was under the hood I'd check out the injector lines and sure enough way back on 5 & 6, I have leaks. It's probably the connector tube orings or a loose fuel line. I was gonna hold off for awhile and see how the EZ runs compared to the torque dog I'm pulling off but I think I'll go ahead and buy the injectors and do the swap and be done since I'm leaking at tubes 5 & 6. Just needed a little bit more reason to replace injectors and I found it! Hope that's all I find is leaky tubes!
 
On my 01 I use a boost elbow and fooler. I get 28lbs easy 30 if I try harder. I have the RV 275's and really recommend them for a modest power boost. Plus gained 1-1/12 mph. Like Rusty said without some kind of fooler the ECM will limit you to 22-23 lbs of boost.
 
awesome! Thanks! I'm excited yet a bit worried about doing the injectors for the first time. Don't want to mess up the only good truck I'll ever be able to afford!
 
Injectors were fairly easy. Go to Geno's.com and get the injector pulling tool that also has the crossover tube tool. Life will be easier with those two tools. Also get new crossover tube o-rings to save yourself a lot of grief. One other thing when reinstalling crossover tubes and injectors leave injector finger tight until crossover tubes are torqued, they set better that way. Crows foot wrenches make it eaiser to remove the fuel lines.
 
Your 2100 rpm and 70 mph comment reminds me of my 3.55 auto truck with the 12 valve, thats my same problem using my 2nd gen. I wish mine had 4.10 gearing sometimes, its great with a light trailer, but with over 8,000 pounds I really am running too fast or too slow with the 3.55 rear.

If it was my truck I would pull hills in 5th and use more RPM, start the hill in 5th and see what RPM you can maintain. With some power mods I bet you could pull nicely in 5th if you wind it out some. I have a mechanical 12 valve, so its not a direct comparison, but my hard pulls start above 2500 rpm in direct and depending on my load I maintain 25 to 30 psi at 1100 degrees with a bombed truck. I can run 45 psi, but it pulls best around 25 psi and 2500 rpm pulling a heavy and tall trailer. On the flat I run about 10 psi pulling heavy. Wish I had a manual sometimes! Life would be easier when towing, but then I would want an auto when I got back to the daily driver routine.

I can't compare much to a manual beyond the 70 mph comment, although I'm in the exact same place pulling hills in OD lugging or screaming high rpm in direct running slower than traffic. The important thing is to drive by RPM and EGT. So, I found out real quick to keep the RPM up. I pull hills at 60 mph over 2500 rpm when loaded because the engine runs at 1,000 to 1,100 egt and 20/25 pounds of boots on most hills with a modified 12 valve. Both my trucks run best over 2200 rpm pulling. My 3.55 truck likes 70 mph in OD with the 3.55 auto, otherwise I have to drop out of OD. Sounds like your manual is not that different than my auto. But, with that said for towing 5th wheels my 4.10 geared truck is much better at keeping the engine in it's sweet spot, it just stinks when its empty and turning 2300 rpm a lot. Overall, I'm glad the 3rd gen was purchased with 4.10's.

When towing heavy I think of these two trailers. I had just brought the Day Dreamer in from the dealer, it was brand new. It weighed about 16K loaded, my big Toy Hauler was bought a year later and it was a monster weighing around 16K empty and 43' long. I hate to think what it weighed with two motorcycles and a full load of junk inside. I had the 95 set up for the GN toy hauler and the 2003 has the B&W companion 5th wheel hitch set up. I put the 95 on the heavy trailer because of the stronger engine and transmission combo. Both trucks run air bags. The 2003 is all stock except for the Air Dog and with the stock trans I always left the Edge tuner on setting 2 or stock. I ended up leaving the 2003 alone, put my parts money in the 12 valve since that was my daily driver, Mama drove the 03 for years. Now she has a new Honda... time to bomb the 03?.... Maybe :)

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I've never done it, but if I was towing all the time I would probably try an under drive auxiliary transmission on my 3.55 truck, best of both worlds. My 2nd gen truck runs much stronger than my 3rd gen so I like to pull heavy with it, like 18K. The 4.10 truck pulls 15K nice at 60/65, 3.55 truck pulls best at 70/75 mph light or 60 mph heavy. I usually just slow down and run 55 to 60 in direct drive with my 3.55 truck.

When I had my 4 season heavy wood framed Arctic Fox TT it weighed about 11K at 32' long and the 3.55 truck pulled it nicely. Once I went into heavy 5th wheels with the tall wind blocking fronts I much preferred the 4.10 gearing at least with my old trucks.
 
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The EZ is a timing box and will probably be very similar to what you have on there already. Get a boost fooler so the truck wont defuel. They are fairly cheap if memory serves right. Then buy a smarty programmer...nothing else compares to it. It will be like a whole new truck.
 
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Thanks everybody for the feedback. I just installed edge ez and tried it out on level 3 with boost elbow and it was a beast. Huge upgrade from the torque dog. So much that I'm a bit afraid of the injector upgrade but I'm sure it would help egt's to do the rv275s. They will b here monday.
I will definitely rethink towing 9k+ in 6th. I think I'll drop it back to 55-60 and hopefully extend life of drivetrain. I know I will be able to accel much better with this module than the bd torque dog. Since crossover tubes are leaking, I might as well stick those injectors in while I have some downtime over christmas. Still can't get over the power added here. Might even cut back to level 2 on the ez when in tow mode. I really think it would be fine even w/out injectors but...
 
Good job, glad you like it. One thing you will notice, is on a cold morning the ECM will add timing, so will the EZ, that will make the engine rattle/noisy. I would just baby it until the temp was about 160. My Juice defaults to stock until the water temp is 150, I like this feature. The RV's will add a huge amount of low rpm torque, great for pulling hills. It will smoke at no/low boost so a gentle right foot will help. Enjoy!

Nick
 
I had the same problem with towing. Rpm too low and problem with hills. I cured the problem in 2006 with Randy's Ring and Pinion 373 gear set. It will be a little expensive with a 4x4 but it's a good reliable fix. I don't know what the rpm will be with a stick but they are really helpful fixing the the problem.
 
I sure wish I could afford those 3.73's. That gear set should be pretty much perfect gear ratio to put my truck at 60-65mph and the 2000-2100 rpm sweet spot given my tire size and six speed.
I've seen video's of 4.10's screaming on the highway and that would make the truck less driveable when not towing. As I watch that video, I thought, man I bet 3.73's would put mine in that perfect spot for towing my rig.
 
My 2002 dually with NV5600 6-speed, 4.10 axle and stock tire sizes ran the following approximate RPMs in 6th gear:

60 MPH - 2000 RPM
65 MPH - 2175 RPM
70 MPH - 2350 RPM

Perfect for towing our heavy 5th wheels, but a little busy for 75 MPH freeway cruising at 2500+ RPM. Having said that, it would get 17 MPG cruising unloaded at 75 MPH, even with the DD2 injectors and Edge EZ.

Rusty
 
That's better than I thought. Hard to tell exactly in a video. That's great power band. I would much rather run 65-70 grossed out at 16,100lbs. than 70-75 which is where i have had to run in past to keep rpm's up and stay in it. I think this ez/275 upgrade should help me a lot with downshifting to 5th and keeping speed. I like where the EZ makes power and I think that it's going to work great for my truck. I'll say this again, I really like this forum and all the really great and respectful responses so far. People like me, who to tow and are more concerned about preserving our wonderful trucks rather than ragging them out! Thanks!
 
Been running the EZ for a couple days and on the highest setting 65HP, I'm a little scared to put RV275's on. Scared meaning, I'm not so sure my clutch will handle it. I'm blowing black smoke pretty bad already and adding the injectors might be a little too much for me.
I really feel, just switching out the Bully Dog to the EZ had really made the difference for me and what I need for towing. Can anyone give me a REALLY good reason to proceed with the RV275's in addition to EZ. I don't want to destroy a perfectly good clutch right now.
 
Well, I wouldn't tow in the highest level with a stock turbo, the high levels are for playing unloaded. What is the boost level? 20/25 psi ain't much with fuel mods. When towing I keep the EGT around 1,000 sustained pre turbo above 2,000 rpm, boost 25 to 30 psi on hills. Just drive by gauges, gotta have good gauges in your line of sight when towing modified. Thats why we go larger on turbos, with all my fuel I can instantly spool my fairly big turbo and maintain 1200 at full throttle. I actually stay below 1100 even when playing unless I lug down for some reason. RPM is your friend, once my turbo breaks 40 psi the EGT drops to 1,000 and the dually tires fight for traction. :)

I faced the same issue with my auto trucks though when I started adding power, we all do, the stock clutches in the torque converters or the stock manual clutches didn't like the extra juice. The only time you can really use the power without hammering the clutch is by using the power to maintain speed in 5th or your pulling gear at optimal rpm. If your smoking heavy now at 2100 rpm under load you don't need more fuel unless you want to play with bigger turbos or more boost. Need more air first to burn the fuel you have.
 
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Been running the EZ for a couple days and on the highest setting 65HP, I'm a little scared to put RV275's on. Scared meaning, I'm not so sure my clutch will handle it. I'm blowing black smoke pretty bad already and adding the injectors might be a little too much for me.
I really feel, just switching out the Bully Dog to the EZ had really made the difference for me and what I need for towing. Can anyone give me a REALLY good reason to proceed with the RV275's in addition to EZ. I don't want to destroy a perfectly good clutch right now.

When I was running the EZ and switched from stock injectors to DD2s, I immediately found that I could blow through the stock clutch in 5th and 6th gears running unloaded. That's when I switched to the South Bend CON O/FE. The stock clutch may hold the RV275s.....or it may not!!

Rusty
 
unloaded, It's all I can do to pull 28lbs of boost. I have to be in 5th or 6th at highway speeds and get into it on highest setting. So I'm just thinking about how much more I really needed before the EZ mod to now and I think the 30hp setting 2 will put me in the sweet spot for towing. I expect based on past towing with my rig, added power I wanted and 65hp setting of EZ, that level 2 (30hp) and turbo cranked out at 28lbs in 5th gear on a grade should be just right. Might have to dial back speed to 55-60 mph so my eardrums don't explode at running pulling gear at 23-2400 rpms...i can live with that and I really have no choice without a new gear set. Truck just needs to maintain in 5th not fall off like it was before.
 
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Welcome to the slippery slope. PUt the injectors in and turn down the EZ. Start saving for a better clutch! You are just 10-15 years behind us. Snoking
 
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