Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) No Bus!

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff
Status
Not open for further replies.
:eek: Help! Tonight driving home from work I stopped at a stop sign and the engine died. Would not restart. Fuel guage, and fuel pump wouldn't work. The Odometer was reading "NO BUS". I checked all of the connections I could see, also checked all relays and fuses. I jumped accross the fuel relay and it started but still said "NO BUS" and the fuel pump wasn't running. I was giving up on it pulled the jumper from the pump relay and everything came back on. Fired it up and got it home. MIL was on all the way home but the code 1693 Any ideas. TIA :eek:
 
Tom,use your drb,check to see what modules you can comunicate with,what dtc's have been stored in each module,It could be as simple as a corroded fuse holder or ignition switch starting to fail. I know you like to play in the salt so corrosion on connectors would not suprise me.



Bob
 
Bob

The DRB couldn't idendify the computer. But I know you are right about the salt that is what I was looking for. After I got home I got to thinking about the ignition switch. All the functions that work on accessory worked, but the ones on the run side didn't. Fuses were good.



When I was checking the connections under the hood I disconnected the EZ. When I got home I scanned it again I got the 1693 and also high boost code. I expected that because the boost fooler was disconnected and the elbow was still installed.

I am beginning to think it is the ignition switch.

Thanx
 
Watson

I never found the problem. I had jumped the fuel relay and heard a click in the IP. But I was still getting the NO BUS. So I gave up. I pulled the jumper out of the relay socket and everything came back on. I now have about 200 miles on it. I am pretty sure that I have a salt corrosion problem. The truck was in a foot of salt water for two days and driving about 4 miles each way.
 
A shot in the dark..... The CAN BUS connection is the one at the pump. (?) Check pump connection and the ECM connections for corrosion. Unfortunately, on the ECM plugs, things that go wrong are usualy out of sight. The same plugs are used on the Controller of the equipment I work on, and theey can be a severe intermitent headache...
 
Ok guys I found it. I was looking under the hood. Well it was in the cab. It was a loose & corroded fuse in the fuse box on the side of the dash. One of the ignition fuses was loose. When I hit it all sorts of things came on in the truck. Thanx for all of the help.
 
Bob

I tried to post this the other day but it got lost.

The salt does funny things to you.

A friend of mine a number of years ago came home, unloaded his truck and parked it in front of his house. Three days later he went to go to the store. Jumped in the truck and took off up the street. When he got to the corner he could steer the truck. He backed up to front of his house to check it out. The kingpins had rusted solid. Had to torch them out. Thanx for the help.
 
NO offense to the originator of this thread, but this is EXACTLY why I hate long distance troubleshooting:



"I checked all of the connections I could see, also checked all relays and fuses. "



SO, what WAS the problem, after we ran all over creation trying to come up with OTHER possible problems?



"Well it was in the cab. It was a loose & corroded fuse in the fuse box on the side of the dash. "
 
Hey Gary no offense taken.

I had just come back from Bonneville salt flats where we had to drive through 12" of salt water for about4 miles. Everything was fine until I washed the salt off of the engine then I had the problem.

I checked every connection I could find under the hood and they all looked good, I cleaned all of the grounds. And I still had the problem.



The actual problem was a loose fuse in the panel inside the cab. It has one of those fuse taps that has a fuse 90 degrees to the block to power a second circuit and it vibrated loose. It was the first time I had a problem with it in 120,000 miles.



I know diagnosing something is long distance is a pain in the patute. I was just looking for other view points to make me think. You guys did.





Thanx for the help and criticism
 
YUP - salt can be a big pain, and creates problems in MANY areas of vehicle operation - and I sorta dislike the newer style fuses - had my own share of minor problems getting them out of their holders to properly check them.



And as has been mentioned before, a VOM test is the best way, because sometimes hairline fractures in the element can be hard to visually detect. Then of course, all falls apart when the fuse is good, but the holder is defective.



Anyway, glad you found the root problem, and thanks for getting back with the fix.



You might want to consider all the OTHER connectors as future problems just waiting for the most inoportune time for their OWN failures from salt intrusion, and maybe disassemble them all, treat with a good contact cleaner, apply electrical paste and reassemble...



Might save you additional grief along a deserted road some dark and rainy night! ;) :D
 
No Bus

I gave up and took it to Tempe Dodge, fearing a $900. 0 ++ cluster change out. The tech connected it to their computer and when they probed the

CTM "central timing module" (per the service writer) everything came back on. All codes were cleared. They charged me $69. 95 for diagnosis only.



Thank you Tempe Dodge, (they had me) I also asked about the lift pump and they commented that it was "weak" and would need replacement soon.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top