2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission No headlights

[Ken Dunn]

1998. 5 24V, 3500. My son was driving the truck last night. He said he had to "hold" the high beam switch to get the high beams to work. Hmm. Took a look, pulled the headlight switich to the normal position. No headlights, low beam or high beam. Checked the 40 amp fuze in the PDC. Its good. Is the headlight switch a known problem? Truck does pull various trailers. Truck has 178K for mileage.

 

[WilsonF]

Yes could be the multifunction switch. They can get hot enough to melt it.

Floyd

 

[Mikey-KE7LBB]

I've had the same issues with my '93 D-250 and current '92 W-350



Both of them have melted switches/plugs and have had the wiring hot enough to discolor the shielding several inches behind the plug itself!! I was lucky since I lost the marker lights only on both occasions!! Also, a friend of mine had to 'hold' the high beam flash on his '94 when his switch failed



I solved the issue by using a pair of 50AMP switches in place of the junk factory switch. There have been several posts in the past that have solved the same issue with relays wired in to handle the bulk of the load and only using either a factory, or a toggle switch to 'trigger' the relay to make the lights turn on...

 

[MHalloran]

Lost headlights in my 96 also... yes the switch melts. . replaced it with OEM. . OK now

 

[Road Dog]

The headlight switch melting is a known problem. The replacement kit includes a connector with pigtails so break out your soldering gun. Adding a relay to take the load off the switch solves the issue.

 

[JBodenhamer]

I had this same thing happen on my 01 a couple times. My problem was not the switch but the wire leading to the terminal on the switch connector plug actually broke off. I think the design causes it to carry too much current, and over time, this corrodes and eventually fails. A few years ago now, after having the problem the second time, I took out the plug from the switch on the column, and then made a modification to it. what I did was cut out the section of the factory plug where this wire is(on mine it is an edge wire of the plug), and replaced about a foot of the factory wire with a larger gauge(12 or 14 if I recall correctly) and then used a crimp on connector to hook that single wire to the multi-function switch. The trimmed factory plug fit right in around it. I have had no problem since doing this. Hoping it lasts a long time.

 

[surfbeetle]

The issue is that the switch is having too many amps pulled through it. The best option is to put a relay in place so that there's less of a draw to the switch. Look up the threads regarding the sport headlamp conversions and you will find more info on this. My truck has the factory two package which in addition to the hitch included the better wiring to the trailer lights. Many people simply add trailer wiring at the taillight circuit, this also puts too much of a draw on the system.

 

[Excessive Force]

The last time i had a headlight issue it was a melted switch. A local auto parts store had a replacement switch that carried a lifetime warranty... . I think it was either Auto Zone or O'Reilly. Now i'm having a problem with them going out when i tilt the wheel... I'm sure it's a loose wire under the plastic cover on the column.

 

[MLee]

There was a recall for this problem on the switch.

Other problem was the lights would go out when switching from low to high beams and back to lows. This problem, in my case was to check connections and clean the internals of the Multifunction switch. No problem since. You just need a set of Security torc bits, with the hole in the center, and be careful with it.